Restaurant review: One for you, two for me at Hawkers

Hawkers Asian Street Fare has come to town, and I am in love.

But as the Bard of Avon (who never saw a wok) observed, “The course of true love never did run smooth.”

I have taken a tour of nearly the entire continent of Asia without leaving my distressed orange metal seat. However, the dining experience at this St. Petersburg EDGE District restaurant encompasses everything that you encounter (for good or ill) on the street.

Most of this is by design. On the plus side, the food is sensational, giving you access to a panoply of exciting flavors. The space’s smart design and menu, both in graphics and food options, covers a wide range of countries and their spices of note: China (star anise), Thailand (Thai basil), Vietnam (lemon grass), Korea (chili pepper), Japan (black sesame seeds) and Malaysia (turmeric).

But there’s also a downside to the street. Likewise, at Hawkers, you have to deal with noise, uncomfortable seating and the need to accost servers to get their attention. I have a feeling we’re stuck with the first two, but I assume the service will improve over time once the black-clad teams get the routine down.

There’s lots of hustle and bustle. The sharing plates arrive at the table as they exit the kitchen — for, as the menu reminds us, timing is everything. Some are seemingly instantaneous, while others could almost be named Godot. We have so many delicious, filling dishes that when one latecomer arrives, we forget we even ordered it. Plates appear, at times, without comment as well.

“What is that?,” one tablemate queries.

I take a bite to determine it’s the crispy cod with black bean sauce. The sticks of soft, mild battered fish have been stir-fried with fresh bell peppers and onions, shining with sweet, dark bean coating. Just as I’m thinking it’s not as complex as some other tastes before us, a companion swoons and blurts out, “OMG. This is my favorite.”

For me, the revelations are the fried rice and pad Thai. A Korean twist on traditional rice adds savory kimchi for crunchy tang, melding perfectly with juicy strips of steak and stir-fried onions and eggs. Similarly, the pad Thai’s rice noodles pop with shrimp, chicken, eggs, bean sprouts, carrots, scallions, and exquisitely balanced red chili pepper that make you want more. Such is the magic when chefs find the sweet spot. Add the de rigueur crushed roasted peanuts and lime garnish, and your table, too, may enter into the same intense (though exceedingly polite) negotiations for the remaining bites.

Sometimes there are multiple servers clearing items and pouring water; other times they whiz by as though they were going to a fire, which is partly true since the skewers are grilled at 1,000 degrees over wood charcoal. You choose between veggies, beef, or chicken with Korean, Japanese or Chinese dry rubs or sauces. My crowd picks lemon grass pork that has wonderful smoky flavors. They’re far more subtle than the sublime kimchi fried rice or pad Thai, so the initial impression is less, well, impressive. Nevertheless, if you take time to focus, the skewers deliver as promised.

Hong Kong wonton soup has a pleasant, steaming savory broth with delicate floating shrimp wontons on top of massive tangles of thin vermicelli noodles. The shredded char siu pork strips and yow choy (rapeseed) garnishes contribute delightful contrasting texture and flavor. Though no one at my table will consider a taste, obviously due to memories of dull bowls past, I revel in this comforting soup.

Roti canai is a Malaysian flatbread similar to Indian naan. It’s served with a side of signature spicy curry dipping sauce that’s so good we order a second flatbread to avoid wasting a drop.

The Hawkers baos feature three steamed buns filled with our choice of slow-braised pork belly over roasted duck or bahn mi chicken. The pork seems overly fatty and one-note in comparison with our other plates.

Iceberg lettuce wraps offer tofu, beef or duck, along with chicken satay that carries the day with my companions. The stir-fried filling of shiitake mushrooms, water chestnuts, carrots, bean curd, garlic and ginger packs quite the spicy punch. The heat lingers at the back of your throat, so be forewarned.

South Asia curry is a primary dish for street hawkers across the continent. This curry recipe has been “handed down from one generation to the next for centuries.” We go for beef over chicken, shrimp or tofu and are most happy with the layered flavors of the staple.

Our dessert selection shows real finesse. The Asian spin on cheesecake is an individual round with a crushed almond cookie crust and creamy ginger-tinged filling, topped with a reduction of star anise, whipped cream and candied ginger. A smear of orange marmalade brightens things up to complete a scrumptious flavor mashup. The Royal Pairing tops a funky durian creme brûlée ramekin with syrupy mangosteen compote. It’s great — if you’ve acquired the taste.

Street food is adventurous. Hawkers says try “something bold, something new.” I couldn’t agree more; perhaps, a bowl of kimchi fried rice all for myself. That would be nice. 

Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system.

This article appears in Mar 17-23, 2016.