3.5 stars

Renaissance Plaza International Plaza, 4200 Jim Walter Blvd., Tampa, 813-313-3235, pelagiatrattoria.com

Pelagia Trattoria was the first restaurant I reviewed for CL, almost six years ago. At the time, the restaurant — in the bottom floor of the Renaissance Hotel International Plaza — had been revitalized under chef (and then food and beverage director) Fabrizio Schenardi. The food was very good, the place looked interesting, and it was just far enough from the hubbub of the mall’s busy restaurant district to provide a bit of serenity in an otherwise loud and crowded scene.

Last year, Schenardi left town for St. Louis, to take over as executive chef of the Four Seasons there. A big move for him, but not so much for the restaurant he leaves behind. The hotel promoted Daniel Goldich to executive chef, Schenardi’s second-in-command since before Pelagia opened.

The result is a post-Schenardi Pelagia Trattoria that seems to barely notice his absence — same menu, same flavors, same exacting attention in the kitchen.

This article appears in Feb 24 – Mar 2, 2011.