Tangerine House of Kabob

2 stars

1118 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa, 813-251-8905 or tangerinehouseofkabob.com

There's a simple rule that needs to be followed When a single food item is listed on the marquee of a restaurant, built into the actual name of the place: Do that item right. And if you're charging more for that food than what people would expect to pay at a stripped down corner restaurant or roadside stand, you need it to be commensurately better. Common sense, right?

At Tangerine House of Kabob — or kebap, kabab, kebob, kibob, kebhav or kephav, depending on your linguistic heritage — the culinary focus is on meat slapped on a skewer, from basic cuts of chicken and beef to ground meat sausages, grilled an served with accompaniments of rice or pita. There are a few other Middle Eastern items on the menu, ranging from stuffed grape leaves to stewed leg of lamb, but it all circles around a core of kabob.