3.5 Stars
4424 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa, 813-287-6662
On one level, reviewing the newly expanding Floridian – formerly a Treasure Island landmark in a single location – could be an exploration of what happens to the food and feel when a simple restaurant is turned into a chain. Does it devalue the historical impact of the original? How do the compromises that come with multi-unit distribution affect the product? Should hardcore, local-centric consumers start avoiding the new and old locations?
On the other hand, reviewing the new Floridian could easily be just about the sandwiches and sides. There's plenty to talk about there without even bothering with the fundamental issues at stake. And, to be honest, what's more fundamental than some kick-ass french fries and a gooey, crunchy Cuban?
This article appears in Apr 22-28, 2009.
