Zoës Kitchen
3.5 out of 5 stars
942 S. Howard Ave., Tampa. Appetizers: $3.39-$7.39; entrees: $7.29-$12.59; desserts: $2.39-$2.59; drinks: $1.79-$2.49. 813-906-2090; zoeskitchen.com.
The Mediterranean diet has been getting lots of press in recent years as a proven path to good health, so we must give a hearty Tampa Bay welcome to Zoës Kitchen, which uses the cuisines of the region as a springboard. It’s a nationwide chain (in 20 states from Arizona to Pennsylvania) that smartly opened in the midst of SoHo’s restaurant row between Ava and Haven, two stars in Tampa’s restaurant firmament. But with a fast-casual, order-at-the-counter model, Zoës has staked out its own place in the market with impressive results.
The entry is efficient. Walk in, take a handy laminated menu, follow the queue and place your order. You then grab a choice of prepackaged desserts, pay one of the friendly attendants, and stake out a table, indoors or on the ample patio, where you place a silver stand that includes your order number. In no time, a server delivers the goods — and they are good, indeed.
There isn’t any alcohol, but the restaurant offers the usual range of soda, water, juice, milk and tea. The specialty, however, is fresh-squeezed limeade made with cane sugar syrup, which is simply wonderful. The syrup is in perfect sweet balance with the bright acidity of the limes, providing a sense of viscosity to the drink. It’s refreshing and delightful and raises my expectations for what’s to come.
First is a colorful hummus trio sampler with basil pesto, harissa red pepper and classic hummus. Each has a punch of flavor, plus the lush, creamy texture that contrasts nicely with fresh cucumber, julienned bell peppers, grape tomatoes, fresh pita wedges and pita chips for dipping. These selections are distinctive without overwhelming the basic chickpea-sesame-lemon amalgam that makes hummus so popular.
Kafta is a triad of lamb and beef meatballs, topped with a dot of spicy harissa and a bit of dill. They sit on a bed of refreshing Greek tzatziki with creamy yogurt, cucumbers, garlic and just enough hints of mint and dill to make their herbal presence known. I wish the meatballs were a tad warmer, but the plate is very tasty, nonetheless.
Zoës’ ample cup of Mediterranean lentil soup is a delight that says homemade instead of chain. The tomato-laced veggie broth is loaded with translucent onion, carrots and celery. Offered by the bowl or quart, it’s loaded with flavorful lentils, which retain some body and aren’t cooked to mush.
The charbroiled kebab is a staple along the Mediterranean. Zoës offers five pairs of kebabs with a choice of four sauces. We skip the chicken, salmon and veggie with Israeli skhug or Moroccan harissa, opting for pitch-perfect glistening shrimp — juicy with a touch of char and paired with sliced zucchini. While you hardly need a sauce, the aforementioned tzatziki, which the restaurant recommends, pairs well.
Medium-rare steak kebabs are skewered with peppers, onion and tomatoes, as well as accompanied by an Italian salsa verde full of fresh herbs with Calabrian peppers, garlic, EVOO and red wine vinegar that gives it pop. Each kebab order comes with two sides. There’s serviceable rice pilaf or roasted vegetables, but I prefer a ramekin of braised white beans that’s flawlessly simple and seductively creamy. The red-skinned potato salad strikes the right note, too, featuring thin slices seasoned with herbs and a light Mediterranean vinaigrette, as opposed to the typically American mayo base.
Corporate chef Antonio Iocchi’s menu also showcases salads and entree bowls. We try the Mediterranean trio bowl with pesto farro, lemony quinoa with veggies, and orzo “tabouli” (normally made with bulgar or couscous), which adds cucumbers for crunch, feta, fresh dill and both tzatziki and salsa verde for bursts of added zest.
Although the salads aren’t too assertive, they’re still flavorful, contributing some zing as a combo. You also have the option of adding protein with salmon, lamb kafta or our choice of chicken. I deliberately choose chicken because it so easily ends up dry and, therefore, is a good test for how well-drilled and disciplined the line cooks are. Zoës passes with flying colors. Strips hot off the grill are a shimmering and juicy addition that speaks well for the kitchen’s quality control.
The dessert offerings don’t scream Mediterranean but are made with care. Zesty lemon and chocolate chip cookies are huge, soft, moist and full-flavored. The lemon packs real citrusy power, and the huge chips assure there’s plenty of chocolate-filled goodness in every sweet bite. Even more decadent is YaYa’s chocolate cake slice, a square of dense, moist sheet cake finished with a slick of dark, rich chocolate icing. It’s simple, yet intensely scrumptious.
Zoës exceeds the level of most chains — and many full-service establishments — with fresh, healthy, affordable and, most importantly, delicious food that allows you to “eat what you love and love how you feel.” If that’s not a winning combination, I don’t know what is.
CL Food Critic Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system, or email him at food@creativeloafing.com.
