Shrimp & Co.
3.5 stars
2202 E. Seventh Ave., Tampa, 813-374-0192 or shrimpandco.com
Hamburger Mary's
2 stars
1600 E. Seventh Ave., Tampa, 813-241-6279 or hamburgermarystampa.com
Tilapia is a humble fish, at best. It's farmed, feeds on things that should go unmentioned and has a mass-produced blandness that makes it the fish equivalent of engineered vegetable protein. Forgettable.
Except at Shrimp & Co., a small restaurant a block or two away from the core of Ybor. Order the tilapia blackened and you'll receive a slab of fish that will knock your taste buds for a loop, each bite a fiery blend of herb and spice that not only adds flavor to the dish but actually manages to enhance the subtle flavor of the fish. Here, tilapia is gifted with a newfound richness and depth that belies its low-end beginnings. I won't forget this tilapia. Especially since I'll be back for more.
There are other things at Shrimp & Co. worth returning for, like black gumbo built on a deeply-flavored roux and packed with a mess of sausage and shrimp, or baskets of simple fried fish and shellfish. It's all hearty fare, largely built on the Cajun and Creole culinary heritage, with a little of the Caribbean thrown in for good measure.
This article appears in Feb 24 – Mar 2, 2010.