Baytenders
3 out of 5 stars
4400 Fourth St. N., St. Petersburg. Appetizers: $4.50-$14; entrees: $12-$45; desserts: $2-$5.75; beer, cocktails & wine: $3.75-$14.75. 727-202-6788; baytenders.com.
The idea of eating fresh seafood on a picnic table resting on a bed of crushed oyster shells conjures up, for me, memories of summer on Cape Cod. We often idealize our memories, sifting the images so that only perfection remains. It’s just as we might do when cropping images on Facebook — showing the pelicans by the water and chopping out the adjacent parking lot.
When my crew arrives at St. Petersburg’s Baytenders, the joint is jumping. Despite the plethora of restaurants along the Fourth Street corridor, the lure of all the seas’ bounties under one roof seems irresistible. That initially means we’re directed toward the aforementioned picnic table. But, once seated, we abandon the fond memories as the sounds and smells of an urban thoroughfare break the spell. Alas, the dulcet tones of a passing bus convince us to wait for a table inside.
The renovated interior of what was most recently Champions BBQ has been done with care. The new restaurant knows the audience it’s appealing to. The setting is relaxed and comfortable, with a handsome U-shaped bar surrounded by plenty of shiny, dark wood slats. Our booth on the south wall even includes its own individual flat-screen TV from which to follow the latest news on the Bolts’ run for the Stanley Cup.
Looking at the menu, the offerings are seafood’s greatest hits for the casual crowd. It’s not about being adventurous; instead, delivering proven dishes freshly caught from the water is the plan. To start, we choose a few stalwarts as benchmarks.
The crab bisque is standard-issue blue crab, cream and a touch of sherry. It’s pleasant, but lacks the extra finesse of the splendid oysters Rockefeller. This classic from the ’30s is rarely kept simple. Chefs want to incorporate their own twist, and it usually disappoints. Baytenders allows a version of the traditional recipe to shine. Eight glistening oysters are still the star, and a touch of bacon, a dash of spinach, and a spoon of bernaise come together on each shell in joyful balance. The luxurious texture only adds to your pleasure.
The same is true of the smoked mahi fish spread. You see it everywhere, yet rarely find a happy medium. Baytenders, again, understands balance. It’s creamy and spreadable with enough smoke to make your palate happy. For diners who prefer a bit of kick, there are thin jalapeño slices to match with the saltines. So far, so good.
While our entrees show promise, there are some hiccups. Most successful is the blackened local snapper with pineapple-mango salsa. It’s cooked to perfection and the salsa is fresh. But the wild-caught salmon filet with herbed blackberry glaze trips up on two counts: The fish is undercooked for most diners, and none of my tasters understands the choice of pairing sweet berry fruit with the fish. It’s the equivalent of burying a savory filet under a pile of Smucker's. My salmon-loving companion is not happy.
The surf and turf, billed as an “8 oz. broiled lobster tail, topped with crab imperial paired with a 8 oz. Certified Angus strip steak,” gets scrambled in the kitchen. I have no idea how they normally plate this dish, but my steak arrives first on a separate plate. The grill marks are nice, though it’s well under the medium rare I ordered with a cool red center. Luckily, rare meat is not an issue for me. However, the lobster is nowhere to be found.
“It’s coming,” our server announces.
A second plate with a lobster tail arrives with no crab imperial in sight. The lobster isn’t overcooked, but this is a luxury combo with a two-bit presentation.
Accompanying the entrees, the salads (perhaps they were omitting romaine over the recent E. coli outbreak) are standard-issue iceberg lettuce with a few radish slices, shredded carrots and a tomato chunk or two. Each entree also includes a choice of two sides. There’s an ear of corn on the cob, small new potatoes that’re too salty for one taster, some thick, nicely cooked asparagus, predictable tropical slaw with bits of pineapple, and dense cheese grits.
If you’re a fan of extra heat to dazzle your taste buds, Baytenders supplies every table with a bottle of gourmet datil pepper sauce from St. Pete’s iconic seafood market, I.C. Sharks. It’s lightly sweet with a little bite on the finish.
There’s not yet a drink menu, but a full-liquor bar is present, plus a selection of beer and enough wines by the glass to make it interesting.
The desserts are kept simple. Although both key lime and peanut butter pies are available, we’re seduced by the idea of sea salt caramel cheesecake. It’s superb, with all the elements in play. The salt is present, yet doesn’t overwhelm the caramel, and the balance of goo to creamy cheesecake is just right.
We sample the complimentary taste of orange and vanilla soft serve, too, swirled together in dreamsicle delight. I fell in love with this combo as a kid and have enjoyed similar cones at local orange groves, but this is the first time I’ve had it in a restaurant. It’s a smart choice — and, to use a term from New Orleans, a welcome “lagniappe,” or little something extra.
My gang and I exit past the Baytenders picnic tables perched on crushed shells with the same contented smiles borne of childhood memories.
CL Food Critic Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system, or email him at food@creativeloafing.com.
