(L to R) Haven Tampa Chefs Courtney Orwig and Chad Johnson were two of the featured chefs in the 4th Annual Sunday Supper. Credit: HAVEN TAMPA/ FACEBOOK

In fall 2016, when reflecting upon the inaugural Sunday Supper Tampa Bay, I wrote that the James Beard Foundation (home of the culinary Oscars) had indeed knighted Tampa Bay as a culinary destination. Now, after attending this fourth annual foodie marathon event to benefit the Bern Laxer Memorial Scholarship, I’m happy to report that there are enough culinary knights around the Bay’s kitchens to take on any hungry gourmet army.

In these uncertain times, when we’re faced with growing tribalism at every turn, it’s heartening to see the esprit de corps that the region’s chefs bring to Sunday Supper. Despite the ego that it takes to be a great chef, the women and men that lead our finest kitchens come together for the common good not only to wow adoring gastronauts, but unselfishly to help budding young chefs have access to the funds to learn the skills and techniques necessary to unleash their culinary imagination. But enough about the future. The question of the moment is, “What did you eat that knocked your socks off?”

It all begins with a specialty cocktail, local microbrew and unlimited flutes of Taittinger Brut. For me, French Champagne is the perfect way to begin a gastronomic adventure. The furniture-free dining room at Haven is pulsing with energy. The excitement among the foodie glitterati is palpable. It feels more like a disco, although as the skilled and cheery servers from the Bern’s empire slither past with plates of bite-sized culinary jewels, the hungry crowd is more akin to baby birds vying for sustenance.

Whoops, there goes BT’s lobster; here comes Marty’s Duck. You’ve got to be quick and strike with precision. I manage to snag two sublime creations from Chris Ponte, a crisp citrus-thyme tostone topped with creamy mojo suckling pig rillette plus a dot of smoked apple coulis, and a deep-fried oyster Bienville, a New Orleans treat with shrimp and pecorino. I’m swooning — everything is SOOO good, but this is not a sprint and there are hours to go before I sleep.

Chef Chris Ponte’s Mojo Suckling Pig Rillette Credit: JON PALMER CLARIDGE

We hop on the Jolly Trolley for the short trek to Élevage and rise to our table on the terrace with a glass of 2016 King Estate Pinot Gris from Oregon’s Willamette Valley to match our first courses. I only wish I could discuss them all; it’s like picking your favorite child. The array over four seated courses is breathtaking. As I poll my table, there’s no consensus. And so it remains for three full hours of joy. However, there are a few surprises that I want to share lest you turn the page (as no one thrills from ambiguity).

Jason Bamford (Élevage)’s Razor Clam Crudo fills the long shell with hearts of palm and young celery bits which sing in parsley water brightened with Meyer lemon, fermented chilies, fennel pollen and a sweet touch of Tupelo honey. It’s balanced and yet does a surprising dance on the palate.

The next two courses feature a dozen dishes from our most acclaimed chefs which tease with everything from truffles to salmon to exotic mushrooms paired with New World pinot and cabernet in gleaming Schott Zweisel stemware. Memories of prosciutto-wrapped Branzino from Jason Ruhe (Brick & Mortar) and John Lister (Ava)’s roasted elk loin with huckleberry linger among the embarrassment of riches.

Then comes the big finish with five mind-blowing sweets and a Taylor Fladgate 20-year-old tawny port. There’s foie gras frozen custard, apple pie shots, smoked peach tarte tatin, squash with vanilla mousse and a passion fruit cheesecake pop (from Bern’s own Amber Menendez) that blows the top off of my companion’s head. The recurring silent "OMGs" at every glance sum up the whole event. And hat’s off to Phase 5, whose spirited, live musical soundtrack matches the moment. Somewhere Bern and Gert Laxer are smiling. For one brief, shining moment culinary Camelot has descended upon Tampa Bay.

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