Ask most folks about beer cocktails and chances are they’ll think (hazily) back to dropping shot glasses full of hooch into mugs of beer. Depth Charges, we called ‘em. And they hit about as hard. Suds as cocktail ingredients have come a long way since then.

Among my favorite beer cocktails these days are part of a broad category of concoctions from Mexico called the michelada. Like porn, the michelada is tough to define, but you know it when you see it. In general, the michelada is a kind of bloody mary with beer instead of gin or vodka.