When it comes to Thanksgiving wines, my vino-guzzling relatives aren't exactly picky. As long as there's plenty of something red and something white, everyone's happy.
My first Thanksgiving dinner away from home was a different story. I wanted everything to be "gourmet," including the wine. Would Martha Stewart serve any old schlock with her perfect Thanksgiving bird? Not likely. With this twisted idea in mind, I set out in search of the ultimate Thanksgiving wine: one that would pair perfectly with herb-y turkey, tangy cranberry sauce, buttery mashed potatoes and sweet pumpkin pie.
After much sampling and sweating, I reached a startling conclusion: There is no perfect Thanksgiving wine. Sweet, herby, buttery and salty flavors commingling on the same plate? I tell you, it just ain't natural.
The good news is that, while one single wine may not withstand all those crazy food-swings, plenty of wines out there will taste great with 95 percent of the stuff facing you on the plate. Even the cranberry sauce.
Just follow these wine guidelines for a Thanksgiving dinner even Martha would approve of.
… Don't rely on a single wine. Even if the one you choose matches every dish perfectly, chances are, your uncle George would rather have red/white/rose instead. Have two or three different wines on hand so there's something for everyone.
… When it comes to reds, go for lighter-style, fruity wines like Pinot Noir/Burgundy, Zinfandel or Beaujolais. Ultra-dry tannic reds like Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot tend to overpower blander dishes like turkey or mashed potatoes, and clash with the sweet stuff.
… Sweet dishes like cranberry sauce and candied yams call for a white (or pink) wine with a touch of sweetness. (Don't worry, the sugar in the wine will be balanced out by the sweetness of the food.) Think Gewurztraminer, off-dry rose, Chenin Blanc or Riesling. You might also go for a rich aromatic white like Viognier.
… Don't overlook the bubblies. Sparkling wines are extremely versatile and food friendly, especially the fruity roses. Try Roederer Estate Brut Rose or Korbel Rouge.
… Sweet, spicy desserts like pumpkin pie taste best with sweet, spicy wines like late-harvest Gewurztraminer, late-harvest Riesling ("late-harvest" means the grapes were left on the vines long enough to develop an intense sweetness) or Orange Muscat.
… Don't believe everything you read. Experiment with different wines and see what works for you.
Gobble Gobble Gulp Gulp
With that last tip in mind, I grabbed a few bottles of wine and sought out Thanksgiving vittles at local restaurants. Armed with a plate of turkey, mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce and sweet potatoes, I tasted my way through the bottles to present the following results:
Cline 2000 Oakley Vin Gris Smells and tastes like a combo of strawberries and watermelon. Fruity and dry-ish, this pink wine tasted great with all the Thanksgiving goodies on my plate. Easily the most versatile wine of the bunch ($12).
Trimbach 1998 Gewurztraminer This wine from France's Alsace region has flowery, honeysuckle aromas and a golden color. It's full-bodied, rich and nicely sweet. This would be great with turkey and sweet potatoes ($16.99).
Ravenswood 1999 Vintners Blend Zinfandel With a rich, cranberry color, this Zin is smooth, simple and easy to drink. A decent match for everything but the cranberry sauce ($12).
Gundlach Bundschu 1999 Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir Starts out with nice raspberry aromas and follows through in the mouth with oodles of fruit and spice. This yummy, light-to-medium red was a bit dry for the cranberry sauce, but it tasted great with everything else ($28).
Comments? Questions? Great wine experience to share? Talk to us! We'll feature your comments in our Mailbag. E-mail corkscrew@creativeloafing.com, mail to Corkscrew, 1310 E. Ninth Ave., Tampa, FL 33605 or call 1-800-341-LOAF.
This article appears in Nov 15-21, 2001.