3 1/2 stars
2525 Gulf-to-Bay Blvd., Clearwater, 727-437-0255
There are only a few restaurant genres that span the breadth of dining habits from meat-and-potatoes chain regulars to inveterate foodies, and almost all of them feature low-end fare: sandwiches and comfort food done right, maybe with a little flair to surprise people who want to pay attention to what they're eating. And none of those genres is as universal as the diner.
It's not a fad — upscale diners have been a restaurant trend long enough that they almost deserve their own designation — but places that put a little something extra into their country-fried steak and mashed potatoes are still rare enough to turn a few heads. Clearwater's Diner Sixty West has just the right mix of old and new, comfort and cuisine, to get the attention of anyone who steps through the door.
At first glance, the place is, unexpectedly, a tad posh. Wooden boxes are suspended from the ceiling, with modern light fixtures reminiscent of Scan Design. Look a little closer, though, and you'll find folk art roosters tidily placed on walnut shelves, paper napkins on the tables and a grab-and-drop game filled to the brim with stuffed animals. It's not kitschy, just a blend of low- and high-end accoutrements that sets a pretty, but unfussy, scene.
Look at the menu and you'll find more of the same. Burgers, pasta and ribs — the heart of a diner's nighttime menu — and plenty of simple fried food dominate the pages. Despite a few flourishes like braised shortribs atop a specialty burger or lobster bisque on the soup selection, the food largely sticks to its roots. And, of course, sticks to your ribs.
This article appears in Oct 28 – Nov 3, 2010.