The Choco Taco is in no way the devil´s own block of chocolate excess. Instead it thrives on a delicate, winding thread of chocolate syrup over what amounts to two deep-fried banana burritos surrounding a mound of vanilla ice cream. Whip cream fills in the little islands of pleasure. Add a Davis Island Delight coffee ($6) with a double-barrel blast of Amaretto and Irish Crème liqueur, and you´ve got lift off.
Estela´s Mexican Restaurant, 209 E. Davis Blvd., David Islands, 813-251-0558; 312 E. Brandon Blvd., Brandon, 813-657-1421, www.estelas.com.
This article appears in Sep 22-28, 2004.