For once, a restaurant gives us a crab cake that’s actually about the crab. Picture a golden-brown ball the size of a man’s fist, which, when poked authoritatively with a fork, reveals an interior of giant lump crabmeat dotted by a few gleaming capers. Filler? None to be seen, just sweet and buttery shellfish held together by magic, skill and a little breading.
This article appears in Sep 12-18, 2007.