The first time we set foot inside this restaurant it had been open for less than a week, and we oohed and aahed our way through the unusually sophisticated and complex combinations of Mexican, southwestern and Latin dishes. That was years ago, but the restaurant continues to fascinate gourmands with its passion, creativity, stylishness and simple, efficient service. Among its offerings are one hell of a black bean soup; chipotle shrimp sautéed in smoky chipotle chili butter, topped with crumbled queso fresco and fresh cilantro, served with a corn tostada and black beans, cilantro rice and chipotle chile cactus salsa; and a fine duck enchilada.
Red Mesa, 4912 Fourth St. N., St. Petersburg, 727-527-8728.
This article appears in Sep 25 – Oct 1, 2003.