Can we talk about homemade fettuccine glistening with onions and bacon without salivating like dogs? Can we discuss unemotionally its merits, its calorie count, its carbs? Of course not. What's so great about Chef Domenico Forlini's fabulous fettuccine is its unapologetic, heart-clogging, artery-blocking, fat-inducing total yumminess. When you're dining on pasta this good, you don't care where the hell it goes eventually, as long as that fork keeps twirling, the smooth, cheesy sauce keeps landing in your mouth, and there's more in the kitchen. Wash it down with wine and rounds of the chef's nearly perfect, cottony Italian bread.
Domenic's Capri Italian Restaurant, 411 Mandalay Ave., Clearwater Beach, 727-441-1111.
This article appears in Sep 25 – Oct 1, 2003.