It turns out mai tais and pina coladas are for tourists. Real islanders gulp kava, a drink derived from the roots of a plant found in the South Pacific. For most users, its physical effects are akin to those of a muscle relaxer or sedative, only it leaves their mental clarity fully intact. At this tropical tiki shack — apparently the only kava bar on the Gulf Coast — the full-body buzz makes it worth chugging down what tastes like dirty water from a coconut shell. Bottoms up! (Or is that down?) 2500 Fifth Ave. N, St. Petersburg, 727-498-8913, bulakafe.com.
This article appears in Sep 22-28, 2011.