In a city where vegetarians don’t have a lot of culinary cred and vegans are all but forgotten, Grass Root manages to cater to both, as well as that wacky culinary counterculture called “raw.” The result is a mess of re-imagined ’50s picnic food, like tasty macaroni salad with seaweed and almond milk instead of mayo; raw dishes (nothing subjected to temps over 116 degrees) like veggie “sushi;” and vegetarian classics like “stayke,” “chick-un” or textured soy burgers. Is it tasty? A surprising amount of it is, even for us carnivores. No matter. Tastebuds aside, the food at Grassroots is good for your body and soul. 2702 Florida Ave. N., Tampa, 813-221-7668.

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This article appears in Sep 13-19, 2006.