In all honesty, it’s tough to even consider handing this one to another place, though we did find several new and worthy contenders this year. Those looking for a hip, “authentic” version of straight-from-the-kitchen Southern cooking in a trendy environment need look elsewhere. But if you want ribs, chicken, greens, okra, tomatoes and cornbread the way families have been making ’em for generations, you come to the south side of St. Pete, and to Atwater’s. 895 22nd Ave. S., St. Petersburg, 727-823-7018.
This article appears in Sep 14-20, 2005.