Sunday brunch is one of our favorite meals. Everybody's relaxed, the cellphones are finally mute, and you can indulge in long, slow dining and silly or serious conversation. The gorgeous 1925-era hotel, restored to its former glory, still sports its original stenciled borders, pecky cypress beams and glam marble front desk, all of which provide a unique backdrop for brunch. First, the server arrives with cold pink champagne on a silver tray; laid out around you are 64 or so different hot and cold dishes, more than enough to please the fussiest eater. Order a fluffy hot cup of café au lait, paired with wild berry soup, French toast and sausage; or try some of the hotel's new nontraditional brunch items, such as sesame-crusted chicken, artichoke rosemary salad or plum-barbecued duck breast. End it sweetly with chocolate-dipped strawberries or crisp sugar cookies.

Renaissance Vinoy Resort & Golf Club, Marchand's Bar & Grill, 501 Fifth Ave. N.E., St. Petersburg, 727-894-1000 or www.renaissancehotels.com.