Every so often, we meet a ballsy restaurant. These are restaurants that, usually powered by a passion for wine, believe that consumers deserve a variety of wine choices, from the obscure to the famous, at not-too-offensive prices. At Mattison´s American Bistro, a casual, tucked-away restaurant in downtown St. Pete, the 170-label list is full of heft. Little-known producers like Domaine Alfred in San Luis Obispo and Hop Kiln from Sonoma lie in wait next to the Opus One and Rodney Strong. You can partake with only $20 in your pocket, or you can splurge on French Burgundy for $76. Sit at the bar or eat in the dining room, but just go dive in. Mattison´s may not be Bern´s, but its wine list is one to be reckoned with.
Mattison´s Bistro, 111 Second Ave. N.E., St. Petersburg, 727-895-2200, www.mattisons.com.
This article appears in Sep 22-28, 2004.