HILLSBOROUGH
Tampa
Carrollwood/Northwest Tampa
Jasmine Thai Restaurant, 13248 N. Dale Mabry (813-968-1501). No doubt this is one of Tampa's best Thai eateries. The dominant Thai influence, Indian-Chinese, with an added emphasis on fresh herbs and spices such as cilantro, garlic, lemongrass, mint and chilies, make this a cuisine to savor; almost like no other. $$
Vallarta Mexican Restaurant, 13731 N. Dale Mabry (813-264-7691). The Jimenez family puts plenty of tasty dishes on the table, all served with zesty homemade salsa and guacamole. Large portions of well-known favorites like chimichangas, quesadillas, burritos and taco salads make up most of the long menu, all made with better ingredients and fresher flavors than you'll find if you run for the border. Dinner platters will fill you up for under a tenner. Smaller lunch portions start at $3.50. $
Central/West Tampa
Donatello, 232 N. Dale Mabry (813-875-6660). Some of the area's best Northern Italian cuisine also exhibits some of the finest service in town. Favorites include capellini d'angelo, agnolotti with cream and Parmesan and an excellent prosciutto di Parma. Be sure to have at least one of the desserts: Neapolitan cake, chocolate-drenched profiteroles, tiramisu, or fresh fruit tarts. $$$
Mambo's, 4423 N. Armenia Ave. (813-873-1995). This classic "fonda," or neighborhood cafe, is one of the best places to taste the home cooking of Puerto Rico. Step into the cafeteria-style serving line and choose from savory entrees like plantain fritters stuffed with seasoned, ground chicken or adobe-seasoned pork roasted with green bananas, as well as traditional treats like octopus salad. Flavors are fresh, portions are generous and prices are low. Dinners cost $4.99 to $8.95. $
New City Diner, 1002 N. Himes Ave. (813-877-2088). Like a blast from the past, hot cups of joe and heaping platters of food are served up in the bustling atmosphere of an old-fashioned stainless steel diner. But there's nothing old-fashioned about the menu. Look for Roger Lenzi's first-class, creative New American cuisine on a menu that changes daily, all at low-dough prices, with entrees priced between $5.95 to $14.95. Look for dishes like nouvelle meatloaf with wild mushrooms, Cajun-spiced pork roast Mediterranean grilled lamb. Diner food just doesn't get any better than this. $
Tampa — Davis Islands
Estela's Mexican Restaurant, 209 E. Davis Blvd. (813-251-0558). Enjoy traditional Mexican specialties while dining al fresco or inside this charming cantina. Excellent fresh salsa, smoky enchiladas and tasty margaritas are menu highlights. Great lunch specials and no less than 25 dinner combinations. Fresh fruit and carrot juices are squeezed to order. $
Pipo's Latin Cafe, 238 E. Davis Blvd. (813-253-8100). At lunch, expect Pipo's traditional Cuban cafeteria-style food and service, with large servings, modest prices and the best mojo roast pork in the Bay area. The food goes upscale with an infusion of Latin, Caribbean and Old World influences. $$
Downtown Tampa
Mise en Place, 442 W. Kennedy Blvd., Suite 250 (813-254-5373). Owners Marty and Marianne Blitz create a culinary happening in this smart brasserie-style eatery. Billed as a "Neo-American Bistro," Mise En Place is located just across from the University of Tampa. $$$
Tampa — Hyde Park
Antipasto's, 2202 W. Platt St. (813-259-1168). The name says Italian, but your taste buds will tell you Dwight and Lauren Otis from Next City Grill are back to their old tricks, exciting us with fresh, unexpected twists. Eighteen starters include fantastic hot and cold soups, cold vegetable nibbles and small pizzas on flatbread. "Meals In A Bowl" pair homemade pastas with fresh sauces, veal, homemade meatballs and fresh vegetables. Good beer and wine list. Starters range from $3 to $7. Entrees range from $7 to $12. $$
Bacchus Sushi and Noodles, 720 S. Howard Ave. (813- 254-0004). Expect flash and fusion in both food and decor at this high-energy addition to the late-night dining scene. The menu has an Asian accent but offers American-friendly sushi, sashimi, tempura and noodle bowls, along with big steaks and pork cutlets. Most dishes come in small portions for one-from-column-A and two-from-column-B fun, but Bacchanalian appetites will appreciate the huge, whole snapper wok-sauteed, with crispy noodles, vegetables and a savory sauce. Prices range from $6 to $19. $$
Blue Gardenia, 1809 W. Platt St. (813-250-1595). In both mood and food, the Blue Gardenia offers a perfect mix of subtle sophistication and casual fun as a husband-and-wife team of chefs serve up their own take on tasty. Pass an order of four slipper lobster Popsicles around the table while you study the menu, then feast on succulent duck breast bathed in a rosemary, orange and balsamic reduction and served with gingered sweet potatoes, or try the towering filet of yellow fin tuna served atop a Maine lobster Tater Tot. Save room for desserts like ginger chocolate ganache tart with whipped ginger chocolate cream, or simply linger with a fine aged port.
Le Bordeaux, 1502 S. Howard Ave. (813-254-4387). For Provencale cuisine, you can't get better. Meats and fish are fresh, and a blackboard menu that changes daily always has a great selection. $$$
Sally O'Neal's Pizza Hotline, 1319 S. Howard Ave. (813-251-0220). Wrap your mouth around a piece of pizza that will please you plenty. The Pizza Hotline is a longtime favorite in Hyde Park, turning out first-rate pizza made with top-quality ingredients. A favorite is the chicken artichoke pizza: a white pizza that has layers of ricotta, mozzarella and provolone; a dash of Romano and feta; with onions, garlic and herbs. Good calzones and pastas, too. All together now: "Yuuuuuuum!" $
SideBern's, 2208 Morrison Ave., Tampa (813-258-2233). Chef Jeannie Pierola, one of the shining stars of Tampa Bay's dining scene, creates a cuisine that is both luscious and lustrous and serves it in a sophisticated setting that manages to be both worldly and witty. The chef grabs premier ingredients from around the globe and blends them into deeply flavorful and texturally exciting dishes, like a mignon cut of tuna and rare Kumomoto oysters wok seared with shiitake mushrooms in a cognac sauce, served with truffled potato puree and baby bok choy, or, for meat-eaters, a duo of short ribs and hanger steak with an orange rosemary ginger steak sauce, horseradish glazed potatoes, and a side of roasted carrots and parsnips. From soup to nuts, it's a tour de force of fine dining at surprisingly affordable prices. Menu entrees range from $13.91 to $18.91 $$$
The Wine Exchange, 1611 W. Swann Ave. (813-254-9463). David Tyler and crew pair fine wines with good food. For appetizers try the country stufel, wild mushrooms in pastry with a horseradish sauce or their spicy island cakes with jerked crab in honey yogurt sauce. There are soups, salads, innovative pizzas, pastas and a good choice of savory entrees, including a grilled lamb tenderloin with a cream sauce over fettuccini. $$
Tampa — Seminole Heights
Ansley's Natural Marketplace, 402 Sligh Ave. E. (813-239-2700), and 3936 Kennedy Blvd., Tampa (813-879-6625). Large, natural food stores with exceptional produce. The Sligh location also has a bakery with good whole-grain breads, carrot loafs and such. Good takeout prepared foods with plenty of flavor and variety. $
Rigo's Eatery, 6607 N. Florida Ave. (813-236-7446; www.rigoseatery.com). This arty little eatery is terribly tiny. Good thing they have a big garden patio out back. Inside, you can order scrumptious breakfast and brunch foods like made-to-order French toast and waffles, eggs Benedict, breakfast sandwiches and more. Lunch and dinner offer big, tasty sandwiches, several "meals-in-a-minute" for the on-the-go diner, and for dessert, old-fashioned ice cream sundaes with plenty of ooey-gooey toppings. Not too hungry? The easygoing atmosphere makes it a swell place to stop for a cafe con leche and slice of tiramisu while you read the Weekly Planet. $
South Tampa/
Palma Ceia/Interbay
Caffe Italia, 3114 Bay to Bay Blvd. (813-831-0600). Leave it to savvy chef/owner Andre to create some of the most awesome cuisine "Italiano" in town. For starters try the melanzane, thinly sliced eggplant in extra virgin olive oil. Continue with the radicchio and endive salad. Follow with at least one pasta selection, like Andre's cappellacci di zucca, homemade spinach pasta with squash in a light tomato cream sauce. $$$
Il Gabbiano, 3671 West Shore Blvd. S. (813-831-0694). Inside Il Gabbiano you'll find an intimate dining room, fine food and attentive service, but don't let the Italian name fool you. Moroccan owners Ali Seghrouchni and Chef Younes Bennani sneak a bit of the Casbah into their Mediterranean menu. Enjoy fine pastas with fresh-made sauces, as well as splendid lamb shanks kissed with wine and cinnamon, delightful couscous, or tender veal in green peppercorn cream sauce. Dinner entrees from $12 to $16. $$
Nature's Harvest, 1021 N. MacDill Ave. (813-873-7428). A full-service supermarket with organic produce, bulk grains, nuts and dried fruits, cleaning supplies, cosmetics, etc. In the back, you'll find an on-site bakery making whole-grain breads, carrot cake, muffins and more; a cold case for prepared takeout; and a small cafe offering a salad bar and at least one hot daily special. Veteran Chef Debby DeGraaff teaches free vegetarian cooking classes every Wednesday and Thursday, offering easy menus for people looking to add meatless meals to their diet. Hours are from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Friday, 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Saturday and 11 am to 6 p.m. Sunday. $
Trattoria Lauro, 3915 Henderson Blvd. (813-281-2100). The venerable old Lauro's has reinvented itself with a more relaxed, affordable, family-dining atmosphere. Enjoy Northern Italian cuisine with homemade pastas, breads and fabulous desserts, and a wine list to complement any dish. $$
Tropics, 2801 S. MacDill Ave. (813-837-1836) Tropics flies the rainbow flag, but people of any persuasion will enjoy the wide range of selections on a menu that offers a delicious assortment of steaks, chops, poultry, seafood and even wild game. Look for anything from ostrich or pistachio-crusted pheasant to meaty elk chops served with fresh cranberry compote. Buffalo carpaccio, thin, melt-in-the-mouth slices of raw buffalo, is one of the best carpaccios offered in the Bay. A lite menu offers full meals for under ten dollars, while the chef's table shows fancier fare in the $20 range, like grilled swordfish topped with asparagus, crabmeat and bearnaise sauce. On Sunday's, a full brunch offers everything from custom omelets to pastas. $$
Tampa — Busch Gardens/USF/ Temple Terrace
Skipper's Smokehouse, 910 Skipper Road (813-971-0666). Skipper's has always been the place to kick into high gear with killer reggae, blues, rock and world beat, but did you know it's also the place to kick your taste buds into high gear? Spice up your night with smokehouse favorites like hickory-smoked alligator ribs and new wild flavors, like lobster stirfry with soy/ginger sauce over linguine, Florida crab cakes with black bean salsa and orange-crusted perch with mango salsa. $$
Taj, 2734-B Fowler Ave. (813-971-8483). Regulars will tell you it's the best Indian food in town. There are a number of good curries, from sweet kormas to spinach, prepared with vegetables, lamb, beef or seafood. Have plenty of naan, their addictive bread, and some luscious ice cream. $$
Tampa — Ybor City
Carlino's, 1915 14th St., Ybor City (813-241-4646). Adult dining does exist in Ybor. You'll find it at Carlino's, tucked away inside the restored Don Vicente de Ybor Historic Inn. Chef John Eric Kern tempts mature taste buds with fully defined flavors in dishes like pan-seared Chilean sea bass with creamy mushroom risotto, chestnut-crusted rack of lamb and filet au poivre with foie gras. An excellent wine list offers an array of choices for first-rate food and wine pairings. $$$
Sushi on Seventh, 1919 E. Seventh Ave. (813-247-8744). Leave the tatami mats at home. There's nothing traditional about the neon atmosphere of this Ybor City sushi bar. Browse through a large menu of sushi rolls with names like Screaming Orgasm, salmon rolled in seaweed with shrimp, crab, cream cheese, asparagus, avocado, scallions and smelt roe, topped with Japanese mayo and baked or try the Tampa roll, breaded grouper, cucumber and spicy mayo rolled in seaweed, topped with smelt roe and sesame seeds. $$
Tampa Bay Brewing Co., 1812 N. 15th St. (813-247-1422). One of the best microbreweries in the Tampa Bay area is also one of the best restaurants. Choose from good-quality pub grub like huge sandwiches or crusty pizzas (there's ale in the dough). For dinner entrees, choose from regular menu offerings like savory roasted prime rib, shrimp pasta with Creole seasonings and bronzed salmon flavored with ale or explore the daily specials for beer-infused New American cuisine like duck breast risotto with a sauce of cask stout-balsamic reduction. Sandwiches range from $5.95 to $7.95. Entrees range from $6.95 to $15.95. Open seven days a week. $$
PINELLAS
Clearwater
Bunny Hop Cafe & Nature's Food Patch, 1225 Cleveland St. (727-443-6703). If you're craving fresh, healthy foods, try this combination of natural foods market, deli and cafe. Graze at the 50-item salad bar, order a sandwich on fresh-baked bread or a smoothie made with just-squeezed juices, or pick from the deli's huge selection of good, and good-for-you foods to go. Choose individual entrees like fresh sushi, tofu "egg" salad sandwiches and free-range turkey breast sandwiches, or complete dinners like teriyaki tofu with brown rice and mixed veggies, or lentil loaf with mushroom gravy, garlic mashed potatoes and mixed veggies. Complete dinners average $5 to $6. $$
Carmelita's Mexican Restaurant, 5042 East Bay Drive (727-524-8226). Fresh, homemade Mexican flavors at bargain prices. The best appetizer is the crunchy, tasty taquito. Combo platters are heaped. Sopa de tortillas, chicken-rice-corn soup, makes a meal in itself. Be sure and try sangria soda, a great alcohol-free choice for lunch or the designated driver. $$
The Grill at Feather Sound, 2325 Ulmerton Road (727-571-3400). One of Clearwater's dining hot spots, this restaurant was named Best New Restaurant in our 1996 Reader's Poll. Menu includes something for everyone: fabulous steaks, succulent lumpfin crab cakes, colossal shrimp cocktail, an outstanding house salad and desserts that are truly to die for. Don't miss their special creme brulee and mousse-like chocolate torte. Great place for a special evening or impressive business lunch. $$$.
Dunedin
Bayou Bistro and Mudbug Lounge, 456 Causeway Blvd. (727-736-6467). Chef/owner Karen Thomas serves up some fine Cajun food in this funky restaurant and bar. Everything is fresh and made from scratch, right down to the blackening spices on the thin-sliced, gator tail filet. Don't pass on dessert, a huge slice of bread pudding with spiced rum sauce, or is that yum sauce? Oversize appetizers are priced from $3.95 to $6.95, po boys $5.25 to $7.25 and entrees $9.25 to $13.95 $
Cafe Alfresco, 344 Main St. (727-736-4299). You'll enjoy leisurely meals on the patio overlooking the Pinellas Trail. Menu specialties include crisp fresh salads, creative pastas and mouth-watering grilled items such as grilled chipolata sausages, Tandoori pork medallions and roasted duck with balsamic raspberry glaze. Don't miss the delicious ice cream creations. $$
Casa Tina, 369 Main St. (727-734-9226). Got some extra hot sauce on hand? Bring a bottle to this cozy gourmet Mexican and vegetarian restaurant and they'll buy you a drink. (Forget about Tabasco, though; that doesn't count.) The menu has heart-healthy items, including a good ceviche (fresh marinated seafood). Also featured are "heavenly" wild mushroom quesadillas, fresh roasted poblanos stuffed with cheese, a dish of mole verde and mole poblano and corn tamales juicier than ever before. $$
Gulf Beaches/North
Bob Heilman's Beachcomber, 447 Mandalay Ave., Clearwater Beach (727-442-4144). Experience the famous "Back-to-the-Farm Chicken." Plump, tender pieces of fresh chicken are lightly fried, crisp, moist and heavenly, served with fluffy, fresh whipped potatoes, pan gravy, fresh vegetable and bread baked on the premises. Extra portions of veggies, slaw and rolls are complimentary. Good continental selection of other traditional-style meals. $$$
Frenchy's Rockaway Grill and Beach Club, 7 Rockaway St., Clearwater (727-446-4844). For reasonably priced seafood, this beach spot is a favorite of locals as well as snowbirds. She-crab soup, grouper and a variety of other local seafood are just a few of the specialties offered. Great place to go for a rendezvous, or to dine al fresco. $$
Guppy's, 1701 Gulf Blvd., Indian Rocks Beach (727-593-2032). Guppy's is across from the public access on the gulf, so you can go in beachwear casual, but expect the fish to be all dressed up. The emphasis is on fresh fish, prepared in innovative ways with the best ingredients. Don't miss the shrimp in olive oil and roasted pepper appetizer or the creative daily specials. The bar features a respectable wine list and German and English beers. Prices range from $6.95 to $15.95. $$
Gulf Beaches/South
Brunello, 3861 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach (727-367-1851). Paolo has put together another cutting-edge Northern Italian menu. Begin with pan-fried lump crab cake with roasted red pepper sauce, continue with a magnificent risotto with portobello mushrooms or ossobuco di vitello in rosemary vegetable sauce. Finish with magnifico gelati or another of their homemade desserts. $$$
DeLosa's Pizzeria, 12801 Gulf Blvd., E. John's Pass Village, Madeira Beach (727-398-4657). This cozy pizzeria is located in an area known for catering to tourists, but that doesn't mean it isn't good. In business since 1983, the place is highly recommended by locals, as well snowbirds. Excellent crust and sauce from the family make the difference. Have a side of ziti with red sauce while you're at it. $$
Dockside Dave's Grill and Bar, 13203 Gulf Blvd., in the Charterboat Center, Madeira Beach (727-392-9399). Locals know this humble bar and grill is the place to go for a good, old-fashioned Florida fish fry. Fresh-off-the-boat black grouper and shrimp are bathed in a rich batter, then fried up with a golden, crackling crust. Best-ever onion rings get the same treatment. Good seafood pastas and chowders are also worth trying. If a great grouper sandwich isn't your idea of heaven, then try the grilled half-pound burger, beef on weck, or Italian sausage sandwich. Menu prices range from $4.25 to $11.45. $
Yoji Japanese Steakhouse and Sushi Bar, 4615 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach (727-367-6762). Open for dinner only. Teppan yaki chefs perform tableside as they cook softshell crab, shrimp, filet, lobster and chicken in spicy sauces on an iron grill. Be sure and try gyoza (traditional sauteed dumplings) and fresh selections from the sushi bar. Entree prices run from $7.95 to $26.25. $$
Gulfport
Backfin Blue Cafe, 2913 Beach Blvd. S. (727-343-2583). Closed Tuesdays. Quaint little Cafe with classy food, in the heart of an arty district. Great prime rib and meat loaf, excellent fish. Don't miss the corn puree with lump crabmeat or the crab cakes. Great desserts, too. Laid-back, casual and definitely tasty. $$
La Cote Basque Winehouse, 3104 Beach Blvd. (727-321-6888). Expect affordable French foods au gratin, braise and others, plus continental-style dining with prices that are easy to live with. $$
Largo
Cafe Largo, 12551 Indian Rocks Road (727-596-6282). A continental style eatery popular with locals as well as tourists for many years. There's great attention to detail paid to the menu as well as the service. Check for monthly specialty dinners that feature a fine taste of French cooking. $$$
Pastino's, 11750 Clearwater-Largo Road (727-559-0506). Pastino's calls itself a neighborhood pizzeria, but when was the last time you saw gnocchi with wild caribou at your corner joint? Pastino's menu runs from mild to wild. Pizzas include Wild Bill's Western steak special, the taco pizza, and even a lobster supreme pizza with lobster, sun dried tomatoes, garlic, basil and olive oil, topped with white cheddar and mozzarella. Pasta dishes range from linguine with clam sauce to ravioli with exotic wild game stuffing. Entrees are priced from $5.95 to $15.45. $$
Palm Harbor
Blue Heron, in the Shoppes at Cloverplace, 3285 Tampa Road (727-789-5176). Some of the freshest seafood and fowl you'll ever taste. The cuisine at this upscale favorite is a blend of the best techniques and ingredients that encompass Mediterranean, Caribbean, Pacific Rim and New American cuisines. $$$
Consciousness Blossoms, 3390 Tampa Road (727-789-1931). Serving breakfast and lunch. Monday through Saturday. This tiny little cafe is a true shining star. Not only is it the only entirely vegetarian cafe in Tampa Bay, it's also one of very few restaurants to receive a 100% rating from the health inspector. You'll find light, healthy, delicious food served in a calm, relaxing atmosphere, all inspired by the philosophy of meditation teacher Sri Chinmoy. For breakfast, try big, bountiful omelets, served with herb-dusted home fries and tasty, multi-grain toast. For lunch, try customer faves like the portobello wrap, meatless meat loaf, or the vegetarian Reuben, made with grilled tempeh, red onion sauerkraut and Russian dressing. $
St. Larry's, 34980 U.S. 19 (727-786-0077). St. Larry's feels like a chummy private club, with small, intimate dining spaces, a great bar and plenty of hobnobbing among the patrons, but don't worry; they'll be only too glad to have you join the fun. An eclectic menu that changes daily can offer anything from smoked lobster egg roll with fresh blueberry sauce to angus filet sauteed with cultivated and wild mushrooms in a brandy brown sauce and topped with Maytag Blue Cheese. Fish lovers can look for dry-packed scallops and large shrimp sauteed in a rich Asiago cream sauce or authentic Maryland crab cakes. The extensive bar offers a great wine list and a huge collection of single malt scotch. $$
A Taste Of Tokyo Sushi and Yakitori Bar, 3428 Tampa Road (State Road 584) in The Village at Lake St. George (727-787-6235). Closed Monday. Like a visit to Japan. If you've never tried sushi before, this is the place to start. Superior sushi bar, yakitori bar, old faves like tempura, new faves like gyoza, pan-fried Japanese dumplings. $
Pinellas Park
Athenian's Famous Gyros and Chicken, 5320 Park Blvd. N. (727-544-5740). This longtime favorite serves up meal-size sandwiches of fluffy pita bread folded over a fragrant mound of spiced, grilled meat, onions, tomatoes and tzatziki, a cooling sauce made of non fat yogurt and cucumbers. Great grilled chicken, too, and all at bargain prices. $
Cajun Cafe, 8285 Park Blvd. (727-546-6732). Drive past Wagon Wheel Flea Market and pull off onto the dirt road where Cajun Cafe sits on a backwater bayou. There you will find tattooed men and darlin' women playing zydeco tunes on the jukebox and washing down fiery gumbo or jambalaya with Dixie beer. Don't miss the searing barbecue shrimp or the crawfish cornbread, full of fire and mudbugs. Good po-boy sandwiches, gator bites and boudin sausage served with beans and rice. $$
Regina's Philippine Cuisine, 9727 66th St. N. (727-544-6182). Ever tried this flavorful cuisine? If not, you're in for a culinary awakening. There are plenty of daily specials made with fresh, crunchy veggies and perfectly cooked noodles. A range of sweet, sour, salty, etc. Cash only. $$
Safety Harbor
Green Springs Cafe and Gathering Place, 122 Third Ave. N. (727-669-6762). This quaint neighborhood cafe, housed in a cozy, old wooden house hides a secret — there's a CIA-trained chef in the kitchen, turning out deeply delicious dishes like lamb porterhouses, fine cuts of rich lamb, pan-roasted with a port wine reduction and served with wilted greens, or Pacific salmon topped with a lush lobster sauce and baked with asparagus and spinach en papillote or in a paper sack. For a meal in a bowl, order the spicy gumbo made with dark, delicious roux, loaded with chicken and chunky vegetables. Entrees range from $11.25 to $18.75. $$
Safety Harbor Resort Cafe, 105 N. Bayshore Drive (727-726-1161). If you think eating healthy means giving up delicious flavor, then you need to try the spa meals at this renowned resort. The casual cafe offers imaginative appetizers, like grilled portobello mushroom with candied figs and Maytag bleu cheese drizzled with aged balsamic vinegar or try pan-fried lump crab cakes with mango and scotch bonnet aioli garnished with carrot hair and frizzled leeks. Dinners range from guava-glazed and grilled duck breast served with sweet potato pancakes and sauteed greens with chili-vinegar drizzle to a rich seafood bouillabaisse seasoned with allspice and sherry. Lunch entrees 7.50-$9.95, dinners $11.50-$16.50. $$
St. Petersburg
Ajanta Indian Cuisine, 5005 34 St. N., inside Mirage Hotel (727-525-1181). Once upon a time, you had to drive to the far side of Tampa to taste the savory, seductive flavors of Indian cuisine, but no more. Ajanta serves up a fine feast of dishes that celebrate the Indian tradition of using a large variety of very fresh spices to turn foods as simple as lentils or potatoes into surprisingly sophisticated dishes. Be sure and try tandoori chicken, or like jinga masala, shrimps bathed in a subtly spicy sauce, and check out daily lunch specials and the Sunday buffet. $$
Bertoni Italian Restaurant, 16 Second St. N., Jannus Landing (727-822-5503). Chef Bertoni transformed this old night club into a casual, tony bistro serving fine Italian cuisine. Servings are large. Split them if you like a meal with more than one course. The portobello mushroom in puff pastry is a delightful starter; the ginger cream a perfect ending. Fill in the middle with fine pastas and filets. $$
Grand Finale, 1101 First Ave. N. (727-823-9921). This creative bar and bistro is mere blocks from the Tropicana Field of dreams, but light years away from hot dogs and Cracker Jacks. Instead, you'll find one of St. Petersburg's premier destinations for fine dining. The style flirts with Asian ingredients fused with French accents. Try sophisticated starters like seared foie gras drizzled with black pepper caramel, and entrees like seared red snapper served with black truffle risotto or grilled pork tenderloin served with curry-scented and caramelized root vegetables. Entrees $15-$24. $$
Pacific Wave, 211 Second Ave. S., St, Petersburg (727-822-5235) Once upon a time, you'd have to travel to New York's famed La Cirque to taste the awesome cuisine of chef Joe Chouinard, but now you only have to travel to downtown St. Pete to taste his luscious sauces, sublime soups and Asian-inspired fusion dishes. Specialties here are artfully prepared Pacific Rim seafood, prepared with fish flown in fresh from Hawaii. Must-trys are the shrimp bisque, and anything that comes with lobster fondue, a silky smooth, buttery reduction that hints of caramel and lobster. Menu changes seasonally, and most entree prices range from $19-28. $$$
Northeast St. Pete/Gateway
Adobo Grill, 167 Second Ave. N. (727-823-8226). This tiny Mex taqueria serves up fast food with a fresh twist (of lime, that is). Try the fish tacos, two soft wheat shells filled with grilled mahi-mahi, angel hair cabbage, a fresh tomato, onion, cilantro and a dollop of red and white salsas, and don't forget to add the zip of fresh lime juice. Or try the roast pork burrito with salsa verde, sauteed poblano chile, onions and crema, washed down with Mexican beer or homemade sangria. Entrees range from $4.50 to $6.95 $$
Ambrosia, 201 Seventh Ave. N. (727-898-5194). This lively corner cafe offers light, Mediterranean-style fare. Lunch menu includes wraps, hummus, salads or fresh seafood. At dinner, try oven-roasted chicken Patricia or lamb chops with mint chermoula and garlic mashed potatoes. Entrees range from $9 to $19. $$
Bonefish Grill, 5901 Fourth St. N. (727-521-3434) Bite into the Bonefish for a beautiful dining room, lively atmosphere and tasty wood-fire-grilled fish with lemon butter sauce, lime tomato garlic, or fresh mango salsa, or try daily specials, like the exceptional talapia with butter, white wine and caper sauce. Juicy, boneless pork chops in red wine glaze top the menu for meat eaters. Cajun chicken egg rolls are a great starter, with plenty of spice and crunch. Large entrees include bread, house or Caesar salad, and two side dishes, making prices from $12.50 to $17 an excellent value. $$
Harvey's Fourth Street Grill, 3121 Fourth St. N. (727-821-6516). An all-encompassing menu includes 20 appetizers, a full range of large salads, burgers and sandwiches; entrees served with half-portions; pasta and plenty of decadent desserts. An ample wine list and a good late-night menu. $$
Mazzaro Coffee and Italian Market, 2909 22nd Ave N. (727-321-2400). Open Monday through Saturday. Foods are prepared the old-fashioned way. Incredible bread is baked in a wood-fired brick oven, and their coffee is roasted in an antique roaster. Take-out deli with cold meats, cheeses, sandwiches, lasagna, meat loaf, dry goods like pasta, olive oil, herbs, olives. $
Siam Garden Thai Restaurant, 3125 Ninth St. N. (727-822-0613). Wake up your tired taste buds with the spicy flavors of Siam Garden's dinner entrees. Choose from favorite noodle dishes like pad Thai, or try something special like crispy, deep-fried frog legs in garlic black pepper sauce or whole fried snapper served in a chili-garlic sauce. Plenty of good, inexpensive lunch entrees too. $$
Sunset Grill, 2996 Ninth St. N. (727-823-2382). Happy days are here again down at the Sunset Grill. No McTasteless here; these burgers are handmade from fresh beef. Order up thick and creamy hand-dipped milkshakes, just the way the Fonz likes 'em! Nice selection of sandwiches and sides, too. Bop on over and eat on the patio. Live music weekends, 7 to 11 p.m. Average entree $4.50. $
Sushi Zen, 11024 Fourth St. N., in the Bayview Shopping Plaza (727-577-3811). This little Japanese/Korean restaurant is short on decor, but delightfully long on expertly prepared and delicious food. The Japanese side of the menu offers scrumptious tempura, as well as teriyaki and rice dishes. Try the special eel roll, filled with shrimp tempura and topped with sweet eel. The Korean side of the menu is a chili-head's delight. Dishes like sliced pork loin or bulgogi, marinated, grilled beef, are spiced to the max and served with a half-dozen little side dishes that let you heat it up or cool it down. Sushi rolls from $3.95 to $9.95. Sushi assortments from $13.95 to $29.95. Dinner entrees from $5.15 to $12.95. $$
Tarpon Springs
Costa Restaurant, 521 Athens St. (727-938-6890). This intimate 120-seat inexpensive gem serves broiled snapper or octopus with garlic and oregano and traditional Greek entrees like dolmades, and lamb baked with orzo pasta and you-peel-'em shrimp. $
Hellas, 785 Dodecanese Blvd. (727-943-2400). Talk to the locals; they'll tell you this is the best food in town. Sample the Saganaki (flaming cheese) and pickled octopus, but don't stop there. Have a Greek salad with fresh feta, a bowl of avgolemono (lemon and egg soup), one of the fresh fish dishes, then finish with a plate of just-baked Greek pastries (baklava, bougatsa and chocolate flogeres) from their bakery next door. $$
Mr. Souvlaki, 510 Dodecanese Blvd. (727-937-2795). Take a weekend, or just a lazy Sunday afternoon to browse through the Tarpon boutiques, then stop for lunch or dinner; but definitely souvlaki, a delectable shish kabob marinated in Mr. Souvlaki's secret herb-spice blend in a blanket of warm pita bread, topped with ripe tomatoes, onion and a remarkable tzatziki sauce. $$
This article appears in Jun 7-13, 2001.