BEST RESTAURANT
SideBern's 2208 W. Morrison Ave.
Tampa 813-258-2233
There's a scene in the movie Men in Black where Will Smith makes a snappy salute and sings out, "Best of the best of the best, Sir!" We'd make that same salute to SideBern's. It may have started out as the little sister of famed steakhouse Bern's, but under the tutelage of Executive Chef Jeannie Pierola, it's grown up out of its big brother's shadow and into a spotlight of its own. SideBern's doesn't follow the trends. In Tampa Bay, it sets them. This is the sort of sophisticated decor and cultivated cuisine you'd expect in cities like New York or San Francisco, with all the excitement of sitting kitchen-side and watching some of the best chefs in the area preparing Pierola's signature fusion. The marvelous melange of tastes she terms "One World Cuisine" is paired with an affordable selection of world class wines, brought over from Bern's renowned cellars. Looking for true taste excitement? Then deliver yourself to the dim sum lounge, where a flight of wines paired with a serving of four selections of dim sum is probably the best haute cuisine bargain in town. Or reserve a seat at the Chef's Suite and experience a live version of Food TV. SideBern's is simply … yeah, what Will said.
BEST NEW RESTAURANT
Samurai Blue Sushi and Sake Bar
1600 E. Eighth Ave.
Inside Centro Ybor
Tampa 813-242-6688
Samurai Blue, the Japanimation character that appears on everything from menus to the restaurant's Web site, blew in like a kewl breeze over what, only months after opening, already seemed like stale concept dining at Ybor Centro. Now we have Samurai Blue, with a blend of sophistication that never loses sight of fun, and American-friendly food based on Japanese traditions. This personality-plus restaurant is the brainchild of Rosa Santana, Jeff Strane and Executive Chef Yung Kim, who spent four months transforming the area left by an old theater into an artful eatery with 40-foot ceilings, exposed beams and a blend of open and intimate dining tables. Chef Yung Kim tailors his menu to Ybor tastes, providing a menu that pleases both culinary sophisticates and meat-and-potatoes men; he prepares rib-eye steak with shiitake mushroom demi-glace and wasabi potatoes. Diners who favor traditional sushi will find that the fish is fresh, and non-sushi eaters can safely test the waters with vegetarian rolls, like the Hawaiian, no fish, no seaweed, but coconut, cream cheese, asparagus and cucumber, wrapped in rice, rolled inside an outer covering of thinly sliced avocado and mango and given a sprinkle of chopped macadamia nuts; or the house favorite, a melt-in-your-mouth Spontaneous Combustion roll — no rice, no seaweed, just salmon, shrimp, crab, cream cheese, asparagus, avocado, scallions and smelt roe wrapped in Florida grouper and baked with a spicy mayo. You'll be Blue if you miss this Samurai.
BEST BISTRO
Cafe by the Bay
1350 S. Howard Ave.
Tampa 813-251-6659
The word "bistro" has been so abused, we almost hate to bandy it about, but in this case, it is so apropos. Chef Andre Roth, who hails from France, understands the true nature of the bistro as no American homeboy ever can. Inside his tiny Cafe by the Bay, chef Andre re-creates the places he loved most in his homeland, those cozy owner-operated establishments where you're looked upon more as a guest than a customer and treated to the best the family cook can offer. In this case, the family cook is Andre, who eschews the snobbery of fancy French cuisine and offers you, instead, the delicious, everyday fare he ate at his grandmama's table. Under his skilled hands, simple fare like fish filets rolled around spinach stuffing becomes a dish to sigh for, and chocolate souffles are appreciated as a necessity, not some rare luxury. Nothing is prepared ahead in this kitchen. Everything is made from scratch, as you order, and the menu changes monthly to take advantage of seasonal fare. This is French home cooking of the best kind. This is bistro.
BEST SOUP
Gioia Italian Deli
860 49th St. N.
St. Petersburg 727-321-1242
As Campbell's has told us for years, there's nothing as comforting, as heartwarming, and downright delicious, as homemade soup. So how come they want us to buy it in a can? Far better to get it from Gioia, where it really is homemade, daily. The deli's mouthwatering menu changes with the seasons, and every variety is delicious. Our very favorite is the tasty vegetarian chili, a rustic, hearty mix of vegetables in a zippy broth. Our second favorite choice is fragrant tomato-basil, where just a little bit of orange zest adds a magical effect. Add one of Gioia's delicious grilled deli sandwiches made with imported Italian meats and cheeses, or choose from their selection of marinated, imported olives and fresh pasta salads, and you have a mouthwatering meal that will really make those Campbell's kids go "Mmm mmm, good!" P.S. Check out Gioia's cold case and stock your home freezer with their homemade soups, sauces and pasta dishes, shredded cheeses, Italian ices and tiramisu. With a little preplanning, you'll never have to eat your own cooking again.
BEST CHEF
Roger Lenzi
New City Diner
1002 N. Himes Ave.
Tampa 813-877-2088
Tampa Bay is blessed to have a good many gifted chefs; men and women who stand head and shoulders above the crowd for their ability to create food that makes us swoon. But when we go looking among them for someone to name as Best Chef, we look for more than mere cooking skills. We look for well-rounded candidates who extend themselves beyond the kitchen and out into the community. This year the mantle descends on Roger Lenzi, founder of award-winning New City Diner and New City Bistro (now Cilantro Grill). Roger's rocket-fueled passion for excellence in all things drives him to demand the best from himself and those around him. He is selfless in sharing his expertise with other restaurants, and his generosity in mentoring young chefs has seeded Tampa Bay with many Best Chefs yet to come. Roger is that rare breed in business: a person who can see beyond mere personal profit, to the farther horizon of how a community as a whole can profit when everyone strives to do their honest best. Roger, for your passion, for your generosity, and most definitely for your splendid huevos rancheros, we salute you!
BEST STRUDEL
The Strudel King
1108 S. Myrtle Ave.
Clearwater 727-447-7515
As S.J. Perelman, a man well known for his common sense, once wrote, "I have no truck with lettuce, cabbage and similar chlorophyll. Any dietitian will tell you that a running foot of apple strudel contains four times the vitamins of a bushel of beans." We therefore make it our habit to eat a foot of apple strudel once a week, for our health, you know, but only strudel from The Strudel King will do. He begins with a delicate pastry stretched so thin you can read newsprint through it, fills it with a delicious apple-pie-like mixture of thinly sliced, tart apples, cinnamon, sugar, raisins, nuts and butter, then bakes it until the pastry puffs up crispy and golden, giving off an aroma so heavenly it could make a stone gargoyle drool. The King bakes blueberry, peach, even Key lime strudel, but we stick with apple. In fact, if we had our way, we'd begin every morning by packing a Thermos of coffee and heading to The Strudel King for a fresh baked strudel, consuming it right there in the parking lot because even old S.J. knew, an apple strudel a day …
BEST BOYS' NIGHT OUT
Biff Burger and Buffy's
3939 49th St. N.
St. Petersburg 727-527-5297
All right, we'll be egalitarian about it, and admit a visit to Biff's makes a great night out for girls, too. In fact, boys and girls have been spending Happy Days and nights at this burger stand for as far back as folks around here can remember. You'll love Biff's old-fashioned, juicy grilled burgers, topped any way you like, and Buffy's finger-licking' barbecue. Grab a beer at the Bay area's longest outdoor bar, then enjoy the entertainment — sporting events shown on large screen color TVs under an outdoor patio, live musicians, and one of the South's largest gatherings of collectible cars, motorcycles and trucks. Motor heads from all over Tampa Bay flock to Biff's to show off their treasured vehicles. Friday nights it's classic cars, customs cars and street rods; Wednesday and Saturday it's motorcycles, and now and then they throw in a special night for trucks. And if browsing through thousands upon thousands of dollars worth of restored, customized and chromed vehicles doesn't amuse you, the people-watching surely will. Perhaps the best months for this sport are March, when the parking lot fills with thousands of dollars worth of chromed thunder for Biff's special kickoff to Daytona Bike Week, and again in October, when Biketoberfest boys and girls dress up in all sorts of wild and crazy costumes. (And Mother, you didn't fool anyone with that black leather bondage mask.)
BEST TRANSPLANT
Blue Gardenia
1809 W. Platt St.
Tampa 813-250-1595
When Tom and Emily Golden dug up their Blue Gardenia, so lovingly sprouted and nurtured in downtown Safety Harbor, and transplanted it to Tampa, we all held our breaths. Would the little Blue Gardenia survive, or would it wilt and wither away in new ground? There was no need to worry, as it turned out. Not only has the restaurant survived, it has positively blossomed, growing into one of the best little bistros ever to take root in Tampa Bay. The new digs have plenty of room for a cozy little wine bar, offering a quiet place to relax and unwind over a glass before heading for the dining room to explore a whole bouquet full of flavors. We love their casual way of having fun with fine food while emphasizing deeply delicious flavors, like putting lobster on a stick, Popsicle-style, then giving it a spicy tempura shell and a dipping sauce of Pick-a-peppa, or rolling Maine lobster into giant Tater Tots, giving them a panko crust and stacking them with seared yellow fin tuna drizzled with pink peppercorn, ginger and carrot butter. Still hungry? Try a slice of dark chocolate butter cake with a cabernet butter soaking served with heavy whipped cream.
BEST STUFFED CORNBREAD
Bayou Bistro
456 Causeway Blvd.
Dunedin 727-736-6467
Bayou Bistro celebrates the food and spirit of New Orleans, a city known for blending a bevy of cultures, from French, African and Indian to Italian and German, into one big bounteous serving of flavor. Bayou Bistro shows off that heritage with delicious dishes like jaunty jambalayas and good-as-it-gets gumbo. Even the zesty Cajun-spiced shrimp served with blue cheese dipping sauce and celery will make you sit up and say, "Yah suh!" But of course, our personal favorite is the stuffed cornbread, a scrumptious combination of textures and flavors that keeps us coming back again and again. They use a black, cast-iron skillet, big as a banjo, to make sweet, crumbly cornbread, baked to the color of burnished gold, and in its middle, sizzling layers of cheese melting down over sauteed crawfish and andouille sausage, celery, onions, green peppers and fresh corn. It's as marvelous a mix of flavors, textures and aromas as any we can imagine. Wrap yourself around a big serving of stuffed cornbread and a cold Dixie beer and you'll think you're in the Queen City itself.
BEST PRODUCE STAND
The Fresh Market
13147 N. Dale Mabry
In The Palms of Carrollwood
Tampa 813-964-8001
Let's face it: A visit to the average outdoor produce stand is less than inspiring. Wilted lettuce, sun-boiled tomatoes and dried out sweet corn are not the stuff of culinary dreams. That's why we're so taken with The Fresh Market, a sort of outdoor produce stand moved indoors and accessorized with a butcher, a baker — heck, if we browsed around long enough, we could probably even come up with a candlestick maker. Chances are, if you're struggling to find an exotic ingredient listed in a recipe from Gourmet or Bon Appetit, you'll find what you need at The Fresh Market. We're partial to the wide variety of fresh produce, which goes well beyond the selection at our local grocery store, offering us rare and exotic items from white asparagus and tomatillos, to heirloom tomatoes, grown from seed and selected for flavor, rather than for an ability to withstand the rigors of shipping. Of course, when we don't care to make it ourselves from scratch, we love grazing through the deli for items like fresh crab artichoke dip and ready-to-grill chicken kabobs, or picking up breakfast brioche at the bakery, to serve tomorrow morning with creamy cafe au lait. Now this is shopping.
BEST PLACE TO TAKE A FOODIE
Cafe B.T.
3324 W. Gandy Blvd.
Tampa 813-831-9254
Some people, when asked, "Do you live to eat, or eat to live?" answer, simply, "Yes!" They wander among us, seeking out the best cup of espresso or the very best bakery. Their thoughts are consumed with Food TV, and Gourmet magazine is their bedside reading. While these people often make fine and interesting companions, asking them out to dinner can be a pain in the patootie. "Who is the chef?" they demand. "What kind of wine list do they have?" "Is the fish always fresh?" Lest you be intimidated by these demanding souls, we generously offer you our ace in the hole: the one place we know will always satisfy the most demanding foodie, splendid little Cafe B.T. Cafe B.T. impresses with its sense of casual sophistication, its exotic menu of French-Vietnamese flavors, and its stellar wine list, each bottle exactingly chosen to pair with the menu's striking flavors. Let your friend sample a rare beef salad, paper thin slices of tenderloin dressed with fresh lime juice, sesame oil, cilantro and peanuts, before moving on to succulent slices of duck breast bathed in a buttery mango sauce. Sip from a remarkable selection of teas, like Tien-Dat, grown on Tuyet-San mountain in Vietnam and considered one of the world's finest semi-fermented teas or try a bottle from B.T.'s constantly changing selection of rare, limited and reserved wines. Your foodie friend is impressed and for the first time wonders what other surprises lie behind your bland exterior.
BEST COOKING CLASSES
La Maison Gourmet
471 Main St.
Dunedin 727-736-6400
If we had our youth to live over again, we'd spend less time partying and more time learning to cook well because as it turns out, once adulthood sets in, it takes more to impress guests than just an ability to mix Jell-O shooters. Then, too, there's that snoggy business of having to feed yourself on an almost daily basis, and trust me, no matter how excellent they seem now, even you will eventually hunger for something beyond delivery pizza and beef jerky. Therefore, it behooves you to learn to cook. The very best place to do so is at La Maison Gourmet, where you can attend a never-ending carnival of very fun classes, many of them hosted by chefs from Tampa Bay's best restaurants. There are classes for couples, classes for singles, even classes for kids as young as 4. And as we can attest, nothing makes for a stronger parent-child bond than a kid who can cook. (Bring Mummy another plate of salmon with dill sauce, will you, Sweetums?) Go ahead. You can check out their whole class schedule right now at www.lamaisongourmet.com while you wait for the Dominos guy.
BEST WINE BAR
A Taste for Wine
241 Central Ave.
St. Petersburg 727-895-1623
As we've grown older and wiser, our idea of bar-hopping has taken a new twist. Since we're no longer content just to burn out our brain cells, our wanderings have a nobler goal: delighting our taste buds. To that end, we diligently search out the best wine bars, and none delights us more than A Taste for Wine. We love sitting on the New Orleans-style patio, overlooking the action at Jannus Landing and letting our fancy take flight — flights of wine, that is. There's always something special to sample, from comparative tastings of a single varietal to vertical tastings from a single winery. Or, if flights don't suit your fancy, try a single glass from the selection of rare, reserved and limited wines. Need a nocturnal nibble? You can order from an appealing list of hors d'oeuvres, delivered to your table from downstairs neighbor Redwoods, well known for its ability to tantalize even jaded taste buds. Leave that brainless bar hopping behind and step up to the sophisticated pleasures of the wine bar — upstairs in Jannus Landing to A Taste for Wine.
BEST TREAT FOR A SWEET TOOTH
Chocolate and caramel covered apples from Diadre Fine Chocolate by Design
509 Main St.
Dunedin 727-733-0812
Sometimes we feel like a nut; sometimes we don't. Either way, when our sweet tooth is really acting up, it takes more than an Almond Joy to calm it. It takes a chocolate and caramel covered apple from Diadre Fine Chocolate in quaint little downtown Dunedin. They take a huge, tart, green Granny Smith apple, dip it in thick, buttery caramel and cover it with rich, aromatic, bittersweet chocolate from Belgium, home of the finest chocolate in the world. Add a coat of plump, Georgia pecans or rich, sweet cashews and a drizzle of white chocolate. Just one slice of this magic apple is so deeply delicious, so completely satisfying, that we're almost able to resist the impulse to indulge in Diadre's chocolate covered, giant Driscol strawberries, their imported Spanish orange peel, dipped in deep, dark chocolate, and their dazzling array of truffles. Almost — but not quite.
BEST PLACE FOR AUTHENTIC FLORIDA FLAVOR
Ted Peters Smoked Fish
1350 S. Pasadena Ave.
South Pasadena 727-381-7931
Look around today and you might think the native cuisine of Florida is a mixture of Thai, Italian and pizza. So perhaps a history lesson is in order. Smoked fish was the main dish of Florida's early settlers, enjoyed by everyone from Calusa Indians and Spanish sailors to pirates and Cracker farmers. The smoky, fatty, only faintly fishy flavor and aroma of smoked mullet and mackerel is as native to Florida as sand. We would be delighted to report that the preparation of this delicious Florida dish is widely revered and as associated with the Sunshine State as salmon is with Alaska, but alas, 'tis not true. Fact is, the time-honored skill of drying native fish over the smoke of a red oak fire has nearly died out in these parts. If you want to savor the true flavor of Florida, you have to head to Ted Peters, where the menu of smoked mullet and mackerel has remained unchanged for more than 30 years. Mullet is the fattier of the fish, while mackerel is slightly drier, with a mildly pronounced fishy flavor. Both are served with a thick slice of white onion and a scoop of warm German potato salad. Add a plate of smoky fish spread and an ice-cold beer, and friend, you'll taste the true flavor of Florida.
BEST TASTE OF STONE CRABS
Billy's Stone Crab and Steakhouse
1120 Pinellas Bayway
Tierra Verde 727-866-2115
Stone crabs are to Florida what lobsters are to Maine: simply the most outstanding seafood treat available from local waters. However, unlike lobsters, which die in our pursuit of pleasure, taking a stone crab's claw doesn't kill the animal. During the season, roughly October through May, fishermen haul crab traps onto their boats, drag out the stone crab, break off one of his claws and throw him back into the sea. The claw takes a year to regenerate — just in time for another season. The fisherman must be quick and careful; stone crab claws can be as big as a man's hand, and a pinch from them can do serious damage. Many fishermen sell their catch to Billy's Seafood, one of the largest shippers of stone crabs in the state. Their claws are sold around the world, to places as close as Miami and as far away as Europe, but you can taste them right here, fresh, not frozen, on the very day they're taken from the crab. And because Billy buys almost all the local catch, he's able to reserve the very best for his own restaurant. If you've never tasted this favorite Florida treat, a visit to Billy's is a must. Order a plate of colossal-size claws. Sure, they're the most expensive, but it's an experience you'll never forget.
BEST SPRING IN FLORIDA
Green Springs Cafe and Gathering Place
122 Third Ave. N.
Safety Harbor 727-669-6762
One of the wonders of Florida is its many magical springs. From Silver Springs to Sulphur Springs, tourists and locals alike attest to their ability to restore both good health and good spirits. Our own favorite is Green Springs, located in the peaceful little haven of Safety Harbor, where funky decor and fancy cooking by CIA-trained chef Paul Kapsalis leave our stressed-out spirits feeling very restored indeed. The restaurant, nestled into a tiny, old wooden house just off Main Street, has personality plus. The front yard is filled with tables and chairs, the front porch is filled with music provided by local musicians and the house itself is filled with art, like the whimsical hand-painted tables and chairs created by neighboring artists. The brief menu changes weekly, so there's always some new taste to explore, but look for creative, flavorful dishes that reflect the chef's Greek and Cajun family connections. Recommended are the deeply satisfying gumbos, briny kefalograveria cheese heated till molten, to smear on pieces of brown bread, or vegetarian lasagna layered with spinach, roasted portobellos and imported feta cheese and served with a roasted tomato sauce. Eat, drink, relax and let Green Springs wash your cares away.
BEST WINE WEB SITE
http://www.b-21.com
B21 Fine Wine & Spirits
43380 U.S. 19 N.
Tarpon Springs 727-937-5049
God bless Mom and Dad, God bless America, and most of all, God bless the Internet for bringing the whole world to our doorstep. Well, not exactly the whole world. Thanks to Florida's lawmakers, we can browse through the Web sites of the world's great vineyards; we just can't have them ship anything to our door. We can do the next best thing, however, which is to hit the on ramp of the Information Highway and access the complete catalog of B21 Fine Wine & Spirits. They've already shopped the world for us, and their finds are all available online — browse through their entire inventory, read reviews of select wines, find out which wines B21's own wine experts are drinking, find out which wines proved most popular at in-store tastings. Sign up for electronic mailings, and B21 will e-mail you with special sales and select limited-availability offerings. Best of all, anything that intrigues you can be quickly delivered to your doorstep. It's the most complete, informative, entertaining and easy to use wine-related Web service we've seen from this area.
BEST FOOD & WINE EVENT
TO BENEFIT A CHARITY
Abilities Wine Tasting & Auction
Abilities Foundation
2735 Whitney Road
Clearwater 727-538-7370
At any other time, a loud pop heard inside Tropicana Field, home of the Tampa Bay Devil Rays, might signal a fly ball, but on March 12, loud pops signaled, instead, the opening of wine and champagne bottles at the Abilities Wine Tasting & Auction. The playing field was buried under plush carpeting, and the scoreboard came alive with scenes of thousands of people sampling the best food and wine Tampa Bay has to offer as Abilities rolled out the single most prestigious wine event in Pinellas County. Some of the best restaurants in Tampa Bay, from Sutherland Cafe and O Bistro to Grand Finale, Salt Rock Grill, Native Seafood and Julian's At The Heritage pulled out all the stops, while wine distributors and shops like Pic Pac Fine Wine & Spirits and Wines By Morrell Florida pulled out all the corks to serve up a stellar selection of fine wine and fashionable food, all to serve the important cause of training disabled adults to return to full employment. Congratulations to Abilities, for putting Pinellas County on the wine-tasting map, and congratulations to each and every one of you who turned out to support it. It's a fine example of our community coming together to make life in Tampa Bay a little bit better for us all.
BEST VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT
Consciousness Blossoms
3390 Tampa Road
Palm Harbor 727-789-1931
This was a very easy category to judge, what with Consciousness Blossoms being not only the best, but also the only vegetarian restaurant in the entire Bay area. Yes, while other restaurants and cafes have dropped the vegetarian banner and jumped on the bandwagon of the free-range chicken eating, Volvo-driving counterculture, Consciousness Blossoms quietly follows the path of peace and nonviolence in all things, especially eating. But don't expect a namby-pamby menu of bean sprout shakes and weed salad. Consciousness Blossoms serves bountiful food with real flavor, from crisp, Belgian waffles with real maple syrup to three-egg omelets with European-style home fries at breakfast, and bold, sandwiches like the vegetarian reuben or BLT (made with surprisingly satisfying soy bacon) for lunch. Heartier appetites will appreciate the meaty Neatloaf, a mix of proteins, from nuts to soy, baked in a loaf and topped with barbecue sauce. Owner Tilvila Hurwit has created a space that offers delicious food and a peaceful place, dreamily decorated with blue tables and chairs, as well as the artwork and music of her teacher, Sri Chinmoy. And true to her own commitment to feed both body and spirit, Tilvila makes the restaurant available for free meditation classes, on an ongoing basis. These classes are nondenominational, and all are welcomed. Peas be with you.
BEST TAGINE
Karim's Bistro
10700 Gulf Blvd.
Inside the Thunderbird Beach Resort
Treasure Island 727-368-9548
The huge stylized sign atop the Thunderbird Hotel on the entrance to Treasure Island has been a landmark since way back in the middle of the last century, signaling to thousands of weary winter travelers that they had finally reached paradise. Now it signals a new paradise-found, a paradise for the taste buds. At Karim's Bistro, you'll marvel at the flavor of delicious Mediterranean dishes, from the sweet, fennel-flavored sausages to the chicken stuffed with sun-dried tomatoes, spinach, artichokes and herb cheese and bathed in a sherry wine sauce, but it's the Moroccan dishes that really drive our taste buds wild. Chef Karim re-creates the same delicious dishes he prepared back home in Morocco, even going so far as to have his mother travel here, hand-carrying the families own blend of precious herbs and spices so that everything will be exactingly authentic, from the chicken and almond pie to the slow-roasted lamb. But his tagines — meat, fish or fowl, blended with vegetables, oils, herbs and spice and slow-roasted in a special clay cooker until flavors meld — are utterly superb. Our favorite is the chicken tagine, where preserved lemons, a Moroccan specialty chef Karim prepares himself, brighten the flavors in a truly magical way. Taste this dish once — you'll crave it again and again.
BEST USE OF A LOBSTER
Lobster Fondue
Pacific Wave
211 Second St. S.
St. Petersburg 727-822-5235
The first time we saw "lobster fondue" on the menu, we remembered those awful fondue parties where friends gathered around a boiling pot of oil and took turns cremating chunks of bread and beef. Having no desire to revisit that all too awful past, we passed. Imagine our horror when we discovered we'd given the cold shoulder to one of the best creations of one of the best chefs in Tampa Bay. Joe Chouinard, who's done time behind the famed kitchen doors of New York's Le Cirque, shows off his skill with sauces by creating a superb lobster fondue, which has nothing to do with boiling oil, but everything to do with superb taste and texture. This fondue, actually a reduction that begins with a stock made of lobster shells, is a truly remarkable sauce, with a texture as smooth and glossy as the finest silk and a flavor redolent of both lobster and creamy caramel. Subtly sweet, nutty, buttery, it graces the finest cuts of fresh fish flown in from Hawaii, or lends a touch of magic to bisques. If you ever find yourself standing before a warden who asks what you want for your last meal, tell him "Opaka paka with lobster fondue." That way, you'll ensure you're in Heaven before you die.
BEST VEGETARIAN CHEF
Debby DeGraaff
Nature's Harvest Market
1021 N. MacDill Ave.
Tampa 813-873-7428
Whether we're running from mad cow disease or heart disease, or both, we don't know. What we do know is that America's interest in a vegetarian lifestyle is growing by leaps and bounds, so much so that even the food giants are modifying their menus to appeal to people who want meatless McMeals. This comes as no surprise to vegetarian chef Debby DeGraaff, who's worked for more than 25 years as a natural foods chef, teacher and nutritional counselor. Through her cookbook and her cooking classes, held regularly at Nature's Harvest Market and other healthy food stores, Debby has personally introduced thousands of people to the vegetarian table. With tireless enthusiasm, she takes the mystery out of miso and the terror out of tofu, showing us how to turn these foods into easy, delicious and healthy dishes anyone can love. Debby, lettuce say thanks, and peas keep on doing what you bean doing!
BEST ITALIAN
Alfredino's on the Beach
7141 Gulf Blvd.
St. Pete Beach 727-367-9999
Alfredo Quatraro is the smiling man who welcomes you into Alfredino's and presides over the cozy, classy and comfortable dining room, but it's his wife who runs the kitchen, so with all due respect, we think this place should be renamed Maria Elena's. After all, it's Maria Elena who studied in her mother-in-law's Italian cucina, learning exactly how Alfredo's mother, a fine chef in her own right, prepared all his favorite dishes. It's Maria Elena who works such magic with common grouper that you can easily mistake it for the finest Dover sole, Maria Elena who stuffs tender beef filet with prosciutto and provolone before bathing it in a red wine demi-glace, Maria Elena who turns something as simple as a few tomatoes, a little bacon and a handful of pasta into aromatic cappellini amatriciana. It's Maria Elena who never allows any dish out of the kitchen until it meets her own exacting standards, the standards she learned in a little town in Italy. When you're fed up with American knockoffs, like chicken Parmesan and spaghetti and meatballs, and ready for a taste of true Italian, head to Alfredino's. (But just between you and us, think of it as Maria Elena's!)
BEST REGIONAL MEXICAN CUISINE
Red Mesa
4912 Fourth St. N.
St. Petersburg 727-527-8728
Red Mesa has been a favorite with the readers as well as the critics almost since the day it opened its doors. It put a fresh spin on authentic Mexican flavors, and taught us that running for the border didn't have to mean saturating your system with grease and salt. Now they've taken another flavor step forward, with a menu that changes monthly to focus on the unique cuisines of various parts of Mexico. We've swooned over monthly especials — a dish from Jalisco of soft corn tortillas filled with lump crab and Gulf shrimp, baked in a queso and roasted poblano chili cream sauce served with fried, sweet plantains; and whole red snapper Veracruz-style, deep fried and topped with a delicious sauce made of fresh tomatoes, mild chilies, raisins, capers and manzanilla olives. Desserts can range from vanilla bean natilla, a creamy vanilla bean custard served in a crisp cinnamon-dusted tortilla cup with fresh mixed berries, to crepas con cajeta, delicate crepes topped with golden cajeta caramel served with a scoop of walnut-crusted vanilla ice cream. When you think Mexican, think Red Mesa, 'cause you don't need no stinkin' Chihuahua. You need flavor!
BEST SEAFOOD DIVE
Dockside Dave's Grill
13203 Gulf Blvd. (in the Charterboat Center)
Madeira Beach 727-392-9399
Once upon a time, when fishing boats were anchored along every foot of shoreline in Florida, the cuisine scene was dominated by three words — fried, fresh and fast. Locals and tourists alike made their lunch, their supper and, often enough, even their breakfast, out of shrimp and grouper, mackerel and mullet, pulled from local waters, dipped in cornmeal batter and fried up quick to a crisp, golden brown. Then the condominiums bullied their way in, shouldering out all those little fishing docks and fry cooks until nary a one was left — except little Dockside Dave's, which still holds its own in the Charterboat Center. Local fishermen exchange fresh grouper and shrimp for their daily bread — er, make that their daily grouper sandwich, served up by fry cooks who still remember the art of turning the batter into a crisp, golden coating while leaving the seafood moist, sweet and tender. Toss in an order of some of the best onion rings known to man and you're tasting Florida as the good Lord intended — fresh, fried and fast! If a great grouper sandwich isn't your idea of heaven, then try the grilled half-pound burger, beef on a weck or Italian sausage sandwich.
BEST ITALIAN MARKET
Mazzaro Coffee and Italian Market
2909 22nd Ave. N.
St. Petersburg 727-321-2400
Since Mazzaro's Market opened a few short years ago, we've watched it grow and grow and grow again, developing into one of the most pleasant food destinations in the Bay area. We love to arrive on a Saturday morning and spend an hour or two, beginning with a sweet treat from the bakery and a fresh-brewed cup of espresso. When we say fresh, we mean fresh. At Mazzaro, they roast their own coffee beans. Thus fortified, we begin our shopping spree, choosing warm, fragrant bread just pulled from the wood-fired oven. Then it's over to the deli for imported Italian meats and cheeses and prepared dishes like roasted eggplant or deep-dish lasagna. We design our own mix of olives, choosing from a wide variety stored in gallon tubs, then move over to the dried goods for imported pastas, dried herbs, imported wines and more olive oils than we can count. By the time we're done browsing through everything the store has to offer, it's almost time for lunch. Luckily, the deli counter is happy to make up sandwiches to our order. Leave Burdines and Dillards to the mall rats. When it comes to shopping sprees, Mazzaro is our idea of heaven.
BEST PLACE TO NOSH
Pane Rustica
2821 S. MacDill Ave.
Tampa 813-902-8828
You know about noshing, the gentle art of lingering long at some pleasant place, trying a bite of this, a little bit of that, and maybe finding j-u-s-t enough room for a small one of those. Ah, but do you know where to nosh? A good nosh requires, after all, something more classy than hanging around 7-Eleven, trying out a variety of Super Big Gulps and rotating wieners. Let us suggest you sample the pleasures of Pane Rustica, where stone-lined ovens turn out the most aromatic breadstuffs in Tampa Bay. Try a tantalizing sticky bun, dripping with caramelized sugar, while you read the morning paper. Linger over a cup of quality coffee until lunch time rolls around, then try a delicious grilled panini, perhaps sliced turkey breast with onion jam atop slices of magnificently crusty rosemary focaccia, or the best Italian hearth-baked bread you've ever tasted. Savor a bite of oven-baked potato wedges drizzled with good olive oil and herbs, and a spoonful of marinated olives. Let that settle as the world rolls by, then dig into a rich, dense brownie, the kind with a toothsome crust that breaks away to reveal a chewy, chocolate interior. Now, suitably nourished with a satisfying nosh, you can finally face the day — or perhaps, just turn and face the baker as he brings out a fresh tray of chocolate-filled croissants.
BEST FREE SAMPLES
Florida Orange Groves Inc. and Winery
100 Pasadena Ave. S.
St. Petersburg 727-347-4025
Florida Orange Groves Winery's brochure shouts like a hardcore drunk settling onto his elbows in his favorite establishment: "WE ARE PROUD TO OFFER FREE TASTES OF OUR DELICIOUS TABLE WINES SO YOU CAN TASTE BEFORE YOU BUY." "HEY, WE'RE PROUD TO GET SNOCKERED ON FREE WINES," we reply, ready to feel the warmth rise in our cheeks and that foggy feeling between our temples. Oh yeah. Family-run Florida Orange Groves Winery miraculously makes wine not from water, but from citrus and berries, squeezed and fermented right at the St. Pete location. These wines even have antioxidants, but you might expect that from wines made from carrots (40 Karats) and tomatoes (Hot Sun), among other produce. Among the more than 20 — flavors? — are Black Gold, dry or semi-sweet, made from blackberries; Blueberry Blue, so blue they named it twice; Orange Sunshine, made from oranges; Midnight Sun, which is Orange Sunshine blended with coffee. And alcohol. Let's not forget alcohol. Midnight Sun is sort of like rum and Coke, except with vitamin C. Try jabbing a toothpick into that stuff, mister food court worker man. Heck, you might be inclined to buy something if you don't end up reclined on the floor first. This stuff's got punch, and come to think of it, it sort of looks like punch.
BEST BREAKFAST
Yanny's
1258 Highland Ave. S.
Clearwater 727-446-5797
Ah, breakfast. The very word conjures up images of fluffy hot pancakes turning golden on the grill while big slices of maple-sweetened ham sizzle in the pan. That's what we dream about, anyway, while we grab our All American Breakfast — Pepsi and a Pop Tart — or drive under the arches for a death-defying serving of hearty, hot cholesterol on a bun. We gotta wonder — if breakfast is the most important meal of the day, why are there so few really splendid places to eat it? We think Yanny's is the absolute best when it comes to breakfast, allowing us to indulge ourselves in foods that are both good, and good for you. Yanny's homemade yogurt, made from fresh, unpasteurized and chemical-free cow's milk, is like no other — so fresh, so delicious and so naturally healthy, it's almost addictive. His French toast is simply beyond compare, richly flavored with natural eggs and milk and a crust so delicate it puts French crepes to shame. But perhaps you'd prefer a soul-satisfying three-egg omelet, or light, toothsome pancakes served with a side of Yanny's own special ham? Be careful, though. Develop a taste for Yanny's, and you may never be able to settle for Pop Tarts again!
BEST FRESH TAKE ON FISH
Snapper's
5895 Gulf Blvd.
St. Pete Beach 727-367-3550
All the sizzle on the beach was coming from Snapper's this summer, when they made it worth braving even the tourist traffic by reopening with an eye-catching new decor and a taste-tempting new menu. This pretty little bistro is packed with plenty of eye candy, like the stained glass panel of frolicking fish that functions as a door to the stunning brushed aluminum sculpture that divides the dining room into intimate spaces. But what really caught our attention was Snapper's unique take on tuna — four big strips of meaty tuna, crusted with cracked pepper, seared over an oak fire, then lavished with a delicious and imaginative blueberry teriyaki sauce. It's served with spring greens, cucumber slices and sushi-style pickled ginger, on a plate painted with a trio of sauces. Just when we thought we were getting oh-so-bored with sushi stylings on tuna, Snapper's went and made it new again. There are plenty of fresh flavors packed into this tiny place, from fish delivered daily by local fisherman to a garden of herbs grown in the restaurant's own back yard. Meat lovers won't go away unsatisfied. Try the oak-grilled steaks or the tasty veal meat loaf.
BEST SERVER
Kristin Osborne
Red Mesa
4912 Fourth St. N.
St. Petersburg 727-527-8728
Is it routine to request seating in a particular server's section every time you visit a restaurant? Routine or not, it would seem the ultimate commendation to one who waits tables, and it's a compliment we bestow on Ms. Osborne. Where to begin? She's sincerely friendly without being invasive. She's knowledgeable about the food and can communicate the info. She's opinionated without being pushy (you never get the sense that there's too much red snapper in the back and she's pedaling it). She has a lovely smile and carefree demeanor and her checkbook is probably always balanced and even the stains on her apron look good. Kristin makes it all look so easy, like you're a guest at her house and she's sincerely glad you came. And it doesn't hurt that she has some excellent Mexican/Southwestern food to sling around.
BEST SALMON
Island Way Grill
20 Island Way
Clearwater 727-461-6617
In the olden days, if we wanted fresh fish, we were restricted to grouper, snapper, king fish and mackerel, those species we could catch from our own docks. But thanks to overnight flights, we now have ready access to all sorts of good, fresh seafood. Our favorite is salmon, both Pacific and Atlantic, and our favorite place to eat salmon is at Island Way Grill, where a wood-fried grill brings out the best in this flavorful fish. The chefs have a secret method for wrapping the fish filets in bamboo skin to retain the natural flavor and moisture. We don't know how they do it. We only know we love the results — biting through the crisp, crackly skin, through the thin layer of succulent melted fat and into the moist, juicy flesh of the salmon. Yum! Just thinking about it makes our mouths water. It's served with the perfect complement, stir-fried vegetables lightly bathed with soy dressing. Add a glass of cool, crisp Pinot Gris to round out the perfect meal. But no, wait. Maybe the perfect meal was Island Way's seared scallops with a citrus glaze. Or was it the wok-steamed jumbo lobster tail with wasabi mashed potatoes? Maybe we'd better go taste them all once again, just to be sure.
BEST PLACE TO SAY, 'CHEESE!'
Grand Cru Wine Cellar
11724 N. Dale Mabry
Inside the Main Street shopping center
Tampa 813-269-8463
When we were kiddies, we thought cheese was the stuff in the silver foil envelope that Mommy poured over our macaroni. But now we're all grown up, and we know that Mommy was simply saving the good stuff for herself. We're talking about authentic cheeses, made by small, traditional artisans who search out the most flavorful milks from field-grazed cows and goats, and use a craftsman's consideration in turning it into cheese. Much like fine wines, artisan cheeses reflect the season, the weather, the land and both the animals and people involved in their creation. You'll find no better purveyor of fine artisan cheese in Tampa Bay — perhaps in the whole state of Florida — than the folks at Grand Cru Wine Cellar. Your taste buds will marvel at their stunning collection of fragrant, fresh and tangy cheeses from as far away as Italy, France, Ireland, Belgium and Spain, or as close as Canada. Choose a classic Stilton from England, a grand Parmigiano-Reggiano from Italy, a fragrant Roquefort from France, or a fresh, tangy artisan chevres from Canada. Whatever you choose, prepare to abandon the blue box forever. The grand artisan cheeses from Grand Cru Wine Cellar are a very adult experience.
BEST INTERNET MARKETING BY A RESTAURANT
StLarrys@aol.com
Saint Larry's
At The Fountains shopping center
34980 U.S. 19
Palm Harbor 727-786-0077
Every day our e-mail box is crammed with dozens of dull, dreary, demanding messages from businesses that want to sell us everything from herbal Viagra to nude celebrity photos. Does anyone really want to see Regis Philbin nekkid? Is that your final answer? But our laugh lines always crinkle up when we get the weekly mailing from Saint Larry's, wherein Dave tells us about the weekend specials, couched in silly rhymes, phony infomercials, wacky weather reports and dozens of other devices that make it a pleasure to read. While making our mouths water with descriptions of dishes ranging from Swordfish Sublime, center-cut swordfish fillet lightly marinated and char-grilled to a moist medium, served on garlicky rapini and topped with bearnaise, to Pine Bluff Pork Chops, a pair of fresh Arkansas, bone-off pork chops, coated in a fresh breading of rosemary, thyme and sage, pan seared and oven-roasted, touched with a country gravy and served with peach fritters in onion straws. Dave delights us with his own brand of doggerel, to wit: "Before I lay me down to sleep/ I pray Saint Larry's is where I eat/ The wine, the food is all so great/ I pray I get Dave's Chocolate Cake/ Then I'm full and everything's right/ Please, I pray, I go tonight!"
BEST SANDWICHES
Lonni's Sandwiches, Etc.
1153 Main St., Dunedin 727-734-0121
601 Cleveland St., Clearwater 727-441-8044
513 E. Jackson, Tampa 813-223-2333
133 First St. N., St. Pete 727-894-1944
If you pay attention to commercials, you probably think the only place to get a decent sandwich is on a subway. Well, turn off the tube and head for a local enterprise, the tiny chain (only four shops) of Lonni's Sandwiches, Etc., where huge, fresh sandwiches are served on hand-sliced wild rice bread. Lonnie uses a generous hand with the filings, heaping those sandwiches high with things like sliced turkey breast, cream cheese, sunflower seeds, sprouts, mayo and honey French dressing on Ron's Sunny Bird. Or try Lonni's special mix of curried, diced chicken, mango, pineapple and walnuts for the Curried Tropical Chicken Salad Sandwich. What does the "Etc." in the name stand for? All sorts of delicious salads, homemade soups, and a variety of sweet treats made on the premises, from double fudge walnut brownies and apple bread pudding to a drop cookie called Northern Lights, a heavenly mix of puffed wild rice, almonds, coconut and sunflower seeds in luscious white chocolate. With food like this, there's only one place to take that subway — to Lonni's!
BEST NEW TWIST ON RAW TUNA
Boulevard Bistro
8595 Seminole Blvd.
Seminole 727-399-1800
Eating raw or surface-seared tuna took off as a trend on the West Coast long before it came here. When the idea finally washed ashore in Tampa Bay, folks would look aghast at the proffered plates and say to their server "But this is raw!" That stage has passed, and we've finally learned to like the lean, light flavor of seared tuna, but must we always have it served the same old way? Endless plates of rare tuna served with soy and wasabi left us looking at menus, lamenting with a sigh, "Same old, same old. …" That is, until Boulevard Bistro took tuna a step further, wrapping it in won ton skins and wok-frying it until the tuna was barely warm, the outer crust crisp and crackling, then served it with a fresh, snappy dipping sauce sparked with wasabi and warmed with teriyaki sauce and sesame oil. It's a brilliant combination of flavors and textures, exactly what we needed to reawaken our appetite for tuna. Of course, we don't stop with tuna, but go on grazing through pan-seared Chesapeake crab cakes served with a bright citrus and cilantro salsa, skillet-roasted salmon, grilled steaks bathed in zinfandel-herb butter and served with fire-roasted peaches and so much more. A great by-the-glass wine list rounds off the menu, offering enough choices to let us play The Match Game with glee.
BEST BARBECUE SAUCES
McHale's Chophouse
808 S. Howard Ave.
Tampa 813-250-9809
When it comes to barbecue, consider us the crew of McHale's navy, a boatload of greasy-fingered and grinnin' bone pickers who think the ribs, chops, brisket and steaks at McHale's Chophouse are the best to be had. But is it the sweet, succulent, smoky, fall-off-the-bone meat we crave, or those down-home delicious barbecue sauces they make up fresh in their own kitchen? Careful research conducted over a long period of time shows us our zeal may be triggered by the appeal of those savory sauces, which, we've discovered, have the power to elevate nearly any comestible, even Krystal burgers, to the level of haute cuisine. There's McHale's Original Dippin' Sauce, rich and smooth, with just a hint of North Carolina vinegar sauce peeking through, or Memphis Dippin' Sauce, a tasty takeoff on the Kansas City classic, and Sante Fe Dippin' Sauce, a savory tomato-based sauce zipped up with mild ancho chili peppers and sweet cherry peppers. Or do as our odd man out does, and drench your brisket in homemade Creole pan gravy, a rich, lip-smacking skillet gravy made with beef drippings and lightly spicy Creole seasonings. Take a taste of these and you'll never again be content to cover your Q with a boring old bottled brand.
BEST NEIGHBORHOOD RESTAURANT
Pastino's Neighborhood Pizzeria Restaurant
1750 Clearwater-Largo Road
Clearwater 727-559-0506
Pastino's is the sort of old-fashioned place that draws the whole neighborhood in, for good food, easy-on-the-pocketbook prices, good service and a comfortable atmosphere that lets everyone — couples on a date, families with children, working couples on the go — feel like this is their place. We think part of Pastino's relaxed, comfortable atmosphere comes from its setting — a quaint, wooden house with a large garden patio — but most of it comes from the friendly folks who work here. They bend over backwards to make sure you enjoy your meal, whether you're trying something mild, like tasty bow tie pasta with spinach and artichoke cream sauce, or something wild, like rattlesnake ravioli. Or perhaps you'll pick out a pizza with toppings ranging from the lobster supreme, with langostino lobster, sun-dried tomatoes, garlic, basil and rosemary topped with white cheddar and mozzarella to grilled chicken and sun-dried tomatoes soaked in cognac with a four-cheese sauce. Whatever your choice, one thing's for sure — the people at Pastino's will make you feel right at home.
BEST PLACE TO SQUEAL OVER SQUID
Kaisen Sushi
12785 N. Dale Mabry
Tampa 813-969-3848
It took a bit of time for us to become truly avid fans of sushi. First, we eased our way in with rolls made of smoked salmon and cream cheese, worked our way up to spider crab and eel, but put on the breaks when it came to squid. All those tiny little tentacles, curled up like a piggy-wiggie's tail, and those white slabs of raw, glistening squid flesh — well, it was just more than we could bring ourselves to taste. Then we were treated to the art of Kaisen Sushi, and discovered squid at its very best — cut into 2-inch square tiles, lightly grilled over a small charcoal brazier, and served with a delicious, smoky, almost bacon-flavored sauce and a scoop of fluffy, fragrant white rice. One taste, and we had to kick ourselves for taking so long to take the bait, if you'll excuse the expression. Kaisen is a small, casual sushi bar with a skilled, creative chef who knows how to tantalize our taste buds.
BEST RESTAURATEURS
Frank Chivas and Chef Tom Pritchard
Salt Rock Grill
19325 Gulf Blvd.
Indian Shores 727-593-7625
People say it all the time — "I love to cook. Maybe I'll open a restaurant!" But it takes more than some family recipes and a set of Emeril signature cookware to turn Mom's meatloaf into a thriving business. Opening and running a restaurant is a risky operation requiring a diverse set of skills. It's not for the weak of back, the faint of heart or those requiring face time with their own family. That's why we have so much respect for Frank Chivas and chef Tom Pritchard, the dynamic duo who put together two of the best independent restaurants in Tampa Bay, the Salt Rock Grill and the Island Way Grill. Each restaurant is exemplary in its own way, and both show off the most positive aspects of an independent operation. At both restaurants, the decor, the style of service, the atmosphere and, most especially, the menu show that these men have carefully considered the wants and needs of the Florida diners they'll be serving. Unlike chain restaurants, which all too often seek to shove down our gullets whatever their corporation is serving up north. We wish everyone would take a page from Tom and Frank's book — most especially the page that says, "This ain't Cleveland!"
BEST SETTING FOR A RESTAURANT
Sutherland Cafe
1026 Florida Ave.
Palm Harbor 727-787-7734
A recent trip to Key West and a tour of all the restaurants acclaimed for being housed in quaint old buildings left us saying "Ho-hum. We've seen it all at home." Next time we feel the need to get out of town and into old-timey Florida, we'll head for the acclaimed Sutherland Cafe, housed in one of the oldest buildings in Palm Harbor. This picturesque wooden storefront was originally built as a hotel that housed the town post office. Upstairs, you'll see the minuscule (by our standards) bedrooms being used as booths for divergent antique dealers. Downstairs, the Sutherland Cafe makes use of the ornate and original post office by turning it into a charming wine bar. The restaurant itself, with it's mishmash of old-fashioned wooden tables and chairs set with delicate china and lace-trimmed doilies, is a charming setting for the culinary artistry of award-winning chef Eric Webber, who wows the crowds with Floribbean-inspired flavors. It's a little off the beaten path, but well worth beating a path to!
BEST KITCHEN GOD
Marty Blitz
Mise En Place
442 W. Kennedy Blvd.
Tampa 813-254-5373
When Amy Tan's book The Kitchen God first reached that status of bestseller, we were astounded. "Who knew," we mused, "that so many people would be interested in reading about a Tampa Bay chef?" Turned out, much to our consternation, that the book wasn't about Marty Blitz at all, so let us correct Amy Tan's oversight by officially anointing chef Marty Blitz "Kitchen God, Par Excellence." The man is a legend among the Bay area chefs who worship at his altar. Chef Blitz brought nouvelle cuisine to Tampa Bay at a time when folks hereabouts still hadn't figured out what old velle was. With impeccable technique, dazzling creativity and a powerful passion for flavor, he expanded our culinary horizons, introducing us to cutting-edge trends almost as fast as we read about them in Bon Appetit or Gourmet, and started us on our first steps toward true sophistication. A man of good humor and humility, he will probably be embarrassed by our designation of divinity; nonetheless, we proclaim Marty Blitz as Tampa Bay's own deity of dining. All hail!
BEST PLACE TO PERCH
Perch 93 Central Ave.
St. Petersburg 727-551-0700
Our favorite manner of dining is to perch atop a stool at some classy bar, order up a gin martini — don't be shy with the vermouth and two olives, please — and begin nibbling our way through a list of appetizers. The best place for this activity is Perch, where skilled bartenders ply their trade under the watchful eye of a splendid metal fish, hypnotically changing hues as it pauses in the rush of a waterfall. We suggest you order a Grey Goose vodka martini, let it work its magic on your immortal soul, then, gentlemen, start your grazing! Begin with a tiny plate of farm-raised Florida conch served escargot-style, slipped into tiny conch shells and drizzled with a Pernod-flavored butter, to be plucked out and placed atop crispy wonton crackers. Move on to paper-thin shreds of salmon tartar, cured with spices from India, served atop a square of pumpkin-flavored Belgian waffle and drizzled with orange blossom honey. You'll still have room for a portion of seared scallops, served with a roasted red pepper ratatouille and a warm, spiced mango coulis.
BEST SPECIAL DINNERS
Kelly's … for Just About Anything
319 Main St.
Dunedin 727-736-5284
Tampa Bay's restaurants are the best at planning special event dinners, menus that celebrate a special season like Thanksgiving or Mother's Day, a special food like stone crab season, or a special wine, plucking the best reserved and small lot wines from wineries around the world and pairing them with incredible cuisine. As the menus for these special dinners pass our desk, none so consistently make our mouths water as the menus from Kelly's … for Just About Anything, in beautiful downtown Dunedin. This quirky little restaurant, whose mannequin hostess greets you at the door, is known for keeping a fine wine cellar and a varied menu whose flavor base varies from Floribbean to Middle Eastern, but chef/owner Virgil Kelly pulls out all the stops for special dinners, whether he's celebrating Thanksgiving with his famous turducken (a turkey stuffed with a duck stuffed with a Cornish hen) or celebrating microbrew beers with a dinner whose dessert pairs roast hazelnut cake with chocolate fudge icing and vanilla ice cream with the deep, dark flavor of Sierra Nevada porter. At Kelly's, you really can expect just about anything!
BEST STEAK HOUSE
Julian's at The Heritage
256 Second St. N.
St. Petersburg 727-823-6382
Step into this fine, old wooden home and be ushered into a plush world of velvet-glove service and great steaks. We're talking about the kind of place where they bring the steaks (excellent corn-fed cuts of the very best pedigree) and introduce them to you before dinner. "Sir Loin, Mr. Jackson. Mr. Jackson, Sir Loin." After you've met all the meats and made your pick, a worthy wine steward will help you choose the perfect pairing from Julian's respectable cellar. Then sit back, relax and prepare to be pampered. The kitchen shows a precise hand in grilling great steaks — of course! But expect to be equally impressed with the handling of very fresh fish and huge Caribbean lobsters in season. Accompaniments are simple, and simply excellent, like large, fresh asparagus and potatoes Ann. All done? Then it's time for the dessert cart to come around, or, if you prefer, choose a fine malt whiskey and browse through a commendable collection of very fine cigars for after-dinner dallying.
BEST BREW PUB FOOD
Tampa Bay Brewing Company
1812 N. 15th St.
Ybor City 813-247-1422
The fad for microbrew beers has come and gone, leaving many a small brewery by the side of the road, but our own favorite brew pub keeps chugging along, serving up great food as well as grand brews. Hand-pulled, unfiltered, cask-conditioned ales are a specialty of the house, and for fresh brew flavor, you'll never taste any better, but there's also distinctive stouts, porters and lagers, even home-brewed root beer that will make you wonder why you ever settled for A&W. As might be expected from a kitchen housed in a pub, the food is often liberally laced with beer. There's brew in the pizza crust, in the sauces, even on the good, grilled steaks which may be bathed in onion ale butter. The menu is ever-evolving (they've currently added great organic lunch specials) but always offers the very best, in quality and in flavor. The restaurant is housed in an old brick building that began its life as a horse stable. Today, it's one of the better choices in Ybor, for grand brew, great food and good company. Barkeep, we'll have another!
BEST PLACE TO EAT, DRINK AND BE MERRY
Skipper's Smokehouse, Restaurant and Oyster Bar
910 Skipper Road
813-971-0666
Skipper's Smokehouse is a legend, one of those landmark locations that simply must be visited at least once in your life, like Mount Rushmore, The Statue of Liberty or Jim Morrison's grave. We've met folks in the audience who've driven from as far as Orlando to visit Skipper's. The quirky, ramshackle collection of old wooden buildings and outdoor stage showcases some of the best live blues, zydeco, Cajun and reggae bands in the south. And there's nothing like hearing these big-name bands play in the cozy, intimate atmosphere of Skipper's outdoor theater. Grab yourself a picnic table and pass around a pitcher of beer and a big platter of shrimp, oysters, gator tail, smoked yellow fin, conch and grouper as Louisiana Sauce Boss Bill Wharton conjures up his secret brew of steel-banjo blues and made-on-stage gumbo. Or kick off your shoes and dance in the dirt as The Red Elvises wow you with their balalaika version of surf rock. This is a place to eat hearty, and get down and party among goodhearted men, women and children who know that when the good times roll, they roll to Skipper's.
BEST CHINESE
Forbidden City
25778 U.S. 19 N.
Clearwater 727-797-8989
We're not big fans of Chinese cuisine — at least not the bland, gummy glop served up at most corner takeout joints. The last batch of pork fried rice we got at one of these places had a nice, thick chunk of cardboard box — complete with UPC code — fried up with the pork and scallions. Sure, we like exotic food, but rice a la packing carton is a little too exotic for even our tastes. That's why we keep Forbidden City on speed dial. Their quality is consistent, year after year, with a kitchen that accents freshness, like using fresh herbs and grinding its own rice, and their menu boasts far more than the made-for-Americans chop suey and chow mein. We especially like their dim sum selection, an offering of dozens of dandy little finger foods, from fragrant, thin slices of lightly fried baby eggplant to a multitude of delicious dumplings stuffed with everything from spicy pork to sweet shrimp, and we're not above sitting in the classy dining room and stuffing ourselves with a dozen or more selections. At an average of a mere $2.50-$2.75 a plate, we can afford to treat ourselves to a dim-sumptuous banquet!
BEST LUNCH DEAL IN YBOR
The Laughing Cat 1811 N. 15th St.
Ybor City 813-241-2998
We'd probably starve to death if not for the guys who slave over the grills and fryers in that tiny, un-air-conditioned dive around the corner from our office. And it's got the kind of atmosphere and authenticity you'll find in big cities, like New York, San Francisco, Chicago, where people know the small, unassuming places are where the real cooking goes on. We call and order the special for the unheard-of-low-price of four clams, and guess what? It's damn good. These guys know how to cook. In fact, it's some of the best cooking in Ybor — way better than some of the chain joints that charge three times the price and slap a tuna sandwich and order of fries on the counter, along with a major dose of attitude. We're talking dishes like penne alla vodka (penne sauteed with shallots, prosciutto, vodka, tomato sauce and cream) and eggplant Parmesan that would make your mama cry.
BEST PLACE TO PLAY WITH YOUR FOOD
GameWorks
Centro Ybor
1600 E. Eighth Ave.
Ybor City 813-241-9675
We know; your mother always told you not to play with your food. But now you're all grown up and we're here to tell you it's more than OK to play with your food, it's mandatory! At least, it is when you're at Gameworks, a grown-up playpen of multimedia games, from virtual horse racing aboard a skittish, rarin'-to-go robot racehorse to Indy 500 racing in a bone rattling, grab-the-wheel-and-grin racecar. When you're hungry, forget about the usual play land menu of microwave pizza slices and soggy nachos. The restaurant here lets you fuel up on real food, from old-fashioned meat loaf, served with steamed veggies and a heaping mound of mashed potatoes, to rotisserie chicken and barbecue ribs. Our favorite dish is the almond-studded Napa Valley chicken salad, for color and crunch, perfectly paired with a 28-ounce margarita served in a glass big enough to bathe in. After all, there's nothing like winning the Indy 500 to work up a thirst.
BEST CONCESSION STANDS
Legends Field
1 Steinbrenner Drive
Tampa 813-879-2244
The home of the New York Yankees Spring Training and the Tampa Yankees is undoubtedly the best place in the Bay area to enjoy a hot dog and a beer. The concession stands, owned by Volume Services, offer a good selection of domestic beers, and the Grand Slam Grill serves up Italian sausage with onion and pepper on soft sausage rolls. Never mind the prices at the ballpark; it's like eating at a theme park. But once you're in your seat — satiated with pork and onion grease, buzzing from the beer's, uh, carbonation — the experience is much like that MasterCard ad: priceless. www.legendsfieldtampa.com
BEST PLACE TO SCHMOOZE A CLIENT
Jillian's Bistro
13575 58th St N.
In Icot Center's Summit Center
Clearwater 727-538-7776
You've almost landed that big account. All you need to reel it in is a liberal application of schmooze, a little wining, a little dining, in just the right place, with the right kind of atmosphere. But beware: A delicate performance like this demands a very special setting. You must choose a place that tells your client you're sophisticated without being a snob, you're relaxed but still have a smashing sense of style, and that you know the trends and aren't just a slave to them. That place is Jillian's Bistro and Piano Bar. Nestled into a park-like setting, offering a relaxing waterside view from the bar and dining room, this lovely bar and bistro offers food that's sophisticated without being intimidating. Flavors range from the Mediterranean, in dishes like lobster-crusted grouper laced with tomatoes, garlic, fresh basil, onions and mushrooms, to the Caribbean, in dishes like fresh mahi-mahi dusted with Caribbean jerk seasoning and bathed in a wild berry butter sauce. A customer favorite is Jillian's mixed grill, your choice of two or three "tasting size" portions of entrees ranging from grilled petit lamb chops with Madeira sauce and petit beef filet with wild mushrooms and bourbon, to grilled salmon with a strawberry glace. Add a bar filled with top-shelf brands, live jazz music and you've got a scene set for business and pleasure.
BEST LATE-NIGHT ALTERNATIVE TO DENNY'S
Egg Platter
4403 W. Gandy Blvd.
Tampa 813-839-8849
Here's the scenario: You're the designated driver. Your compatriots, not weighed down by the responsibility of keeping anyone alive, have spent the evening in a rousing game of "How much can we drink before our kidneys fail?" They're drunk, obnoxious and pissing you off, but you've got the solution: food. Good food. Food you can get with the remnants of your drinking money, which ain't much. The dilemma is that all the other comfort fooderies are filled with folks that make your idiot friends look sober. Fortunately, you don't go there. You go to Egg Platter. Open 24 hours with a full menu of eats that are mighty tasty regardless of your mental status. And think about it: Where else are you gonna get eggs, toast, some damn fine coffee, along with service that's fast, pleasant and willing to deal with your drunk ass for under 5 bucks? Right.
BEST LATE-NIGHT DINING
Grand Finale
1101 First Ave. N.
St. Petersburg 727-823-9921
You've just gotten out of the movie, the theater, or your in-laws, who entertained you with a slide show of their latest trip. Whatever your evening's entertainment has been, it's dumped you out on the town well after most of the eateries have closed up their kitchens. But your tummy's empty, and your taste buds are likely to wrap your tongue around your neck and strangle you in your sleep if you make them go to the Waffle House. Fear not. Grand Finale, one of the best little dining spots in St. Pete, keeps its gourmet kitchen open until 1 a.m. and you won't find Chef John Shields flipping burgers. Look for a mouthwatering menu of New American cuisine with Asian accents, like thyme-scented, grilled tuna blocks served with a confit of lentils, quinoa, garlic and truffle oil, and a sweet curry morel mushroom sauce. Feeling crabby? How about jumbo lump crab cakes served with a spicy cumin cilantro sauce; sweet, black Thai rice, and hot and sour mango slices over tiny greens. Tuck in a cheese course here, a delicate dessert there, and wash it all down with a cool martini from the bar. When your evening ends late, this really is a grand finale!
BEST DAWG HAWKER
Scott Moudy, Manager
Mikey's Hot Dog Hut at Home Depot
8815 N. Florida Ave.
Tampa 813-230-5484
"Gitcha hot dogs right heah! Ice cold sodas! Ices!" Scott Moudy's calls might make you think you were at a ball game, actually having fun if you didn't know you were at Home Despot, preparing to try to flag down one of the harried guys in orange aprons rushing past you. The first time you stop for a dog and a soda, it's probably because you forgot to grab lunch, in your rush to beat every other homeowner on the planet to wait in line at the return counter. About halfway through your dog, you realize with surprise, hey, this is a pretty good wiener. That's because it's not just any nasty blend of pig snouts and horse meat; it's an all-beef Vienna Beef brand hot dog, and Scott Moudy takes pride in serving it. So much pride, in fact, that he gets pretty hot under the collar about the Planet's tendency to give the Best Hot Dog award to that frizzy-haired fellow who gets all the attention when the subject of tube steaks comes up. In fact, Moudy gets downright cranky about it. He's so confident his dogs are the best that he even gets testy when we forget to put Best Hot Dog on the Readers' Poll. Well, we remembered this year, but Moudy still didn't win. Didn't even come in second. He'll probably say it's our fault for giving all the ink to Mel's, with his unnaturally green relish. Maybe he's right. Give Mikey's a try. If you like more exotic tubular meat, he's got corn dogs, kosher Polish sausage and even hot-dog-shape hamburgers. Even if you're vegetarian, he's got fruit ices (our favorite is mango with watermelon a close second) that will make you forget for a moment that you're fixing the toilet this weekend instead of going to the beach.
BEST CINCINATTI-DERIVED FAST FOOD CHAIN
Skyline Chili
28798 U.S. 19 N.
Clearwater 727-791-6887
This place kicks ass! First off, they serve beer. We thought that might get your attention. But the food … the food is one of Porktropolis' most renowned claims to fame, beating out even the Reds. In the Cincinnati area, Skyline Chilis loiter on every street corner, perpetually packed with addicts needing their three-way or Coney fix. So what's the big tra-la-la? Skyline's chili is not your ordinary Texas-style stewy mush. It's got a thin, Greek meat sauce with secret ingredients that customers ponder over during each visit. The ambrosia is served over spaghetti and topped with your choice of onions, red beans, finely shredded cheddar cheese and Skyline hot sauce. Our mouths are watering just thinking about it.
BEST PLACE TO TITILLATE YOUR TASTE BUDS
O Bistro 6661 Central Ave.
St. Petersburg 727-381-1212
South Howard is Tampa's renowned "restaurant row," an avenue chock-a-block with high-quality independent restaurants, and not a chain in site. If there's an equivalent in St. Pete, it must be Central Avenue, which begins downtown with Perch and Redwoods, and proceeds uptown, to the upscale delights of O Bistro. Chef Tyson Grant delights us with a delicious menu of eclectic cuisine, from ginger-crusted rack of lamb glazed with vanilla-bean soy syrup to chorizo-crusted salmon filet with grilled tomato salsa, avocado aioli and frijoles negro. What's that? You're not in the mood for chichi, frou-frou food? Then console yourself with comfort foods, down-home flavors taken uptown, like meat loaf stuffed with mozzarella and fresh basil, served with a smoked tomato demi-glace and roasted garlic mashed potatoes, or celebrate the flavors of the South with grilled, applewood-smoked pork chops served with maple roasted apple chutney and sharp white cheddar grits. This is food with one central element — flavor. Maybe that's why you'll find it on Central Avenue.
BEST TREE IN TAMPA
BAY'S CULINARY FOREST
Redwoods Restaurant
247 Central Ave.
St. Petersburg 727-896-5118
Tampa Bay sometimes looks like it's in danger of becoming a vast desert of chain and franchise restaurants, with nothing to feed the hunger or quench the thirst of the culinary soul. If this is the way you feel, there's a good tree to turn to for shelter — Redwoods. Since it first took root in downtown St. Pete, Redwoods has offered a seasonally changing, and always innovative menu of remarkable Pacific and Hawaiian flavors. Now Tommy Sapp, lately executive chef of Nautical Restaurant named "Best New Restaurant New Orleans 1999" by Bon Appetit magazine, adds a soupcon of Creole and Cajun to the mix. You'll see his N'awlins background shining through appetizers like savory crawfish cheesecake with a celery root remoulade, and drizzles of lobster oil, and in entrees like blackened Hawaiian tuna with asiago cheese grits surrounded by a tasso gravy. Even his recent trip to China shows up in Beijing roasted duckling with leeks, supreme onions, hoisin oyster sauce and savory potato crepes. For a sweet peek at Pacific Rim, look to the dessert menu for treats like banana coconut cream pie with spiced rum and roasted banana puree. You'll find a forest of flavors, firmly grounded in excellent culinary technique, every time you dine under the Redwoods.
BEST DINING PIONEER
Bern Laxer, founder
Bern's Steak House
1208 S. Howard Ave.
Tampa 813-251-2421
If you're new to Tampa Bay, it might be easy to underestimate what you find at Bern's Steak House. There's the world-famous wine cellar, the quality in the kitchen, the polished servers in the dining room, and now, the evolving, sophisticated decor; top quality seems to come so effortlessly here that it's easy to take it for granted. But the seeming ease with which all this appears is a magician's illusion. It takes tons of hard work by hundreds of people to make sure this magic act continues to get top billing year after year. The founder, and leader-by-example of this culinary circus is ringmaster Bern Laxer, who took a 1940s roadside cafe serving a good steak sandwich and turned it into a world famous restaurant. By striving toward a vision instead of striving only toward a profit, by constantly pushing for greatness in a business where most settle for good enough, and by always working harder than anyone who ever worked for him, Bern Laxer gave Tampa Bay a template for the true measure of success. There is, perhaps, no other restaurateur more deserving of a big round of applause from all of us who enjoy the fruits of his labor. So, on three. One … Two …
BEST KOREAN
Sushi Zen
11024 Fourth St. N.
St. Petersburg 727-577-3811
If you're seeking something as seemingly simple as well-prepared, flavorful food and the chance to explore a delicious ethnic cuisine, put Sushi Zen on your map, a tiny place with a talent for putting its own delicious touch on dishes that might otherwise seem ordinary. Sure, they have sushi, sushi as pretty and polished as any we've had. And the perfectly prepared shrimp tempura with its crispy, crunchy and superbly delicate coating will tempt you to order it again and again. Still, you can have sushi and tempura anywhere. A better reason to eat at Sushi Zen is to explore the native Korean cuisine of Hwa Sun, the owner and operator who'll be bustling about the front counter during your every visit. The flavors of Korean cuisine are intense, intoxicating, with a fiery zing that will make your taste buds buzz with a little burn. We love the boneless pork loin, as well as bulgoki, strips of marinated, grilled beef, both of which come with a dozen or more delicious little side dishes, allowing you to infinitely change the flavors of anything you order. For freshness, for friendliness, for a real flavor adventure, you must make a trip to Sushi Zen.
BEST PLACE TO EAT IN TAMPA BAY
Any independent restaurant
Anywhere, Any time, Any place Every time another chain restaurant pops up around here, we shake our heads, sigh, and ask ourselves where Tampa Bay taste buds would be without the dreams and hard work of the local men and women who give themselves over to the task of operating independent restaurants — the only defenders of culinary quality in a cut-rate, fast-food world. It's not that we hate chain restaurants. Since we spend much of our own lives on the road, we certainly appreciate the value of being able to get a hamburger whenever, and wherever, hunger calls. But when we're not eating in the front seat of our car, we want real food with real flavor, cooked in the house by a real chef. We've come to loathe boil-in-the-bag ribs, steaks soaked in tenderizer and painted with chemical "grill" marks, soggy, precooked pasta warmed up when we order, and all the other cheap tricks used by pretenders to the flavor throne. Give us the mom-and-pop, independent restaurant, where the owner's eye checks every detail and determines if it's good enough for his customer — who's also his neighbor. Give us the citizen chef who cooks her best because she's cooking for her own community. Give us the restaurants that give our town local flavor because you can eat in an Applebee's or an Arby's in almost any town in America, but you can only eat at O Bistro, at Cafe B.T. or SideBern's, at Pacific Wave or Redwoods, at Kelly's or Kaisen Sushi, if you're right here in Tampa Bay. So do your taste buds a flavor: Break out of your chains and embrace independents.
This article appears in Sep 20-26, 2001.