NOTE: What follows is based on a verified transcript of an email exchange with serious implications. It was not placed on a top-secret server. However, an unnamed whistleblower has brought it to light.

A short play from the life of a Creative Loafing food critic regarding the creation of the 2019 TOP 50 RESTAURANTS list.

LIGHTS UP.

Critic: You’re sure you want to attach a number to all 50?

Food Editor: It’s going to be a little cutthroat but that’s the most exciting part. This whole anonymous thing will come in handy!

BLACKOUT.

While this mini play has not yet been independently produced, it is proof that compelling theatre may rise from pithy dialogue and walk the knife’s edge between comedy and tragedy.

Each of us brings individual preferences to the dining table, so my list of the Top 50 restaurants is obviously very personal. For me, as a reader of any criticism (of either food or art), part of the value is understanding the viewpoint of a particular critic. That way, I can know that my personal preferences either align or don’t align with that critics’ taste. My goal is never to convince you to like something or other; I endeavor to describe my dining experience, in order that you may make a decision as to whether my visit sounds appealing (or not) for you to choose where to spend your valuable dining dollars. Regular readers know that I value balance in a dish and give high marks for invention and surprise.

For that reason, I’ve skipped steakhouses on this list (excepting Bern’s wine program) because you’ve got plentiful excellent choices for aged beef and all the regular accouterments that accompany our obsession with grilled chunks of red meat. This list is weighted toward peak gastronomic experiences where surprise is around every corner.

I’m impressed by technique and chefs whose food shows imagination and finesse. My hope is that you’ll be inspired to try someTHING and somePLACE new. There’s no need to rail against these rankings if you disagree or if your favorite has been excluded. Failure to appear here should not be seen as undervaluing any restaurant. If you love it, that’s terrific. Narrowing down my list and trying to rank this group of 50 restaurants was indeed “cutthroat,” obviously subjective, and while it may be exciting for you, it was excruciating for me.

Some restaurants that I reviewed very favorably disappointed on a return visit. Others may have fixed what I saw as flaws but I never returned. I’ve reviewed every ranking I could find of the cuisine across the Bay. Quite a few eateries highly ranked by others, left me cold. There are simply too many choices, and many worthy candidates. But, unlike with politics, there are no primaries. So, here we go. I hope you’ll be inspired to try a restaurant new to you. – JON PALMER CLARIDGE

No. 50
No. 49
No. 48
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No. 42
No. 41 Credit: Brian Mahar
No. 40
No. 39 Credit: Photo via Casa Tina
No. 38
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No. 23
DRUG plays Lucky You Tattoo in Seminole, Florida on May 4, 2017. Credit: Brian Mahar
No. 21
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No. 11 Cena Grand Central at Channelside, 1120 E. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa. Chef Michael Buttacavoli delivers big time on Cena’s promise to be “modern, fresh, and simple.” My return trips since a glowing review just confirm that the kitchen rocks. There’s not a single item on the menu that disappoints and many offer a welcome element of surprise. And the dolce continues to knock you on your culinary ass. From Kobe beef carpaccio to black truffle risotto, the dishes are designed to thrill. Photo via Cena/Facebook
No. 10 William Dean Chocolates 2790 West Bay Dr., Belleair Bluffs. This culinary supernova matches anything you can find in New York, Paris or other foodie capitals. You pluck a gemlike chocolate from the tray, nibble a luscious bit or, if you get too eager, plop an entire jewel into your mouth. Pause. The sense of creaminess makes an initial impression on the tip of your tongue; the white chocolate ganache is unexpected. You may swoon as the heady mix of lemongrass and coconut develops in layer after layer of flavor across the mid-palate. Then, just like great Bordeaux, the taste lingers and the texture is seared into your memory. Repeat with the rosemary caramel or the luscious lemon tart that’s a pastry for your dreams. Everything here WOWS. Photo via William Dean Chocolates /Facebook
No. 9 Oak & Ola 1901 N. Market St., Tampa. Most times you need to wait for the food in a new restaurant to know that you’re in for a special culinary treat. But when a silent ninja refills your glass in a stealth choreography that’s repeated effortlessly by at least three different members of the service team, your expectations rise. Chef/owner Anne Kearney’s superb seasonal menu delivers. It’s a riff on the European Union (sorry Brexit). There’s a little Spain, a soupçon of Belgium, inventive Italian, French finesse, German wurst, etc. A meal at Oak and Ola soars, does a few loop-de-loops, and gently lands in the upper echelon of Tampa Bay dining. Photo via Oak & Ola/Facebook
No. 8 Noble Rice 807 W. Platt St., Tampa. We’re really lucky that recent years have seen a renaissance in Japanese food. I’m eating more good sushi and ramen than ever before. Noble Rice opened as an izakaya (tavern)-style gastropub, but chef/owner Eric Fralick’s real passion was to be unfettered. His hyper-seasonal splurge menu is now an unforgettable “leave it up to the chef” ever-changing omakase experience. Only your budget determines if you choose the seven or fifteen-course Grand Tasting. If you want the whole Godzilla-like experience, don’t miss the expertly matched sake or wine pairings. Photo via Noble Rice /Facebook
No. 7 Bulla Gastrobar 930 S. Howard Ave., Tampa. If you’re a fan of small plates and sharing, RUN, do not walk to Bulla Gastrobar. It’s the closest thing to eating in Spain that you’re going to find in these parts. I know there are now seven locations serving chef Diego Solano’s menu, but the joy of authentic tapas is the sheer pleasure of the communal sharing of many new tasty treats. Start under the spell of pan de cristal con tomate, add iconic patatas brava and juicy pintxos skewers. Luxuriate during “happy hour” with a half-price bottle of Rioja plus some Manchego. It’s a great place for group celebrations because there’s something yummy for everyone. Photo via Bulla Gastrobar
No. 6 The Black Pearl 315 Main St., Dunedin The Black Pearl remains one of the standout restaurants in the entire Bay area because every one of chef Christopher Artrip’s dishes applies impeccable technique to the freshest ingredients. I spent five weeks in France in 2012 and I didn’t have a single tarte tatin that even came close to the version that they serve night after night—thin mouth-watering fans of caramelized apples with a flaky pastry from your dreams. Perfection! Black Pearl is the sleeper restaurant in the Bay area. I find myself wallowing in the memories of their cuisine. And their white truffle-lobster risotto is so creamy and flavorful, you’ll luxuriate in every bite. The entrée portion is served with an entire lobster tail on top, playfully flopping out of its shell. Photo via The Black Pearl/Facebook
No. 5 Bern’s Steak House 1208 S. Howard St., Tampa This Tampa icon has long been a go-to special occasion choice, but I’m singling out the James Beard Award-winning wine cellar, which houses 6,800-plus selections with more than half a million bottles. Aged wine is a special treat. Save your pennies, grab your most generous friends, and pool your resources on your birthday for an unforgettable treat. The friendly sommeliers will be happy to guide you based on your tastes and budget. Then, take yourself upstairs to the Harry Waugh Dessert Room and indulge in a 4-wine flight with small pours of port or icewine. You know you want to. Photo via Bern’s Steak House/Facebook
No. 4 FarmTable Cucina 179 2nd Ave. N., St. Petersburg Dining al fresco outside on the large, covered second-floor terrace feels like a Tuscan holiday because the laser-like focus is on a “fresh, house-made cuisine influenced by seasonal, regionally sourced and carefully curated ingredients.” From fried cauliflower florets and Florida burrata to ethereal pasta and wood-fired dry age beef, FarmTable Cucina executive chef James Kirby delivers with a “grande” flourish. If you’ve got a crowd, the magnificent “Taste of Cucina” is a five-course family-style feast that’s not to be missed. And on “Wine Wednesday” there’re half-price bottles of wine to match. Photo via FarmTable Cucina/Facebook
No. 3 Cafe Ponte 13505 Icot Blvd., Suite 214, Clearwater Don’t let the strip mall exterior fool you, Chris Ponte and his team of wizards perennially turn out some of the Bay area’s most sophisticated and delicious food. Chef de Cuisine Jason Lutzk has the restaurant running like a well-oiled machine, from the perennial wild mushroom soup with truffle cream to the 24-hour braised short ribs now with a creamy Moroccan carrot puree with sesame dates, roasted pearl onions and almond oil emulsion; it will bring you to your knees. The service, ambiance, and fabulous food place it at the top of the heap. Photo via Cafe Ponte/Facebook
No. 2 Rooster & the Till 6500 N. Florida Ave., Tampa As each small plate arrives, first there’s a hush, then a moan, then an “oh, my” followed by an excited exchange of table-wide commentary as each dish disappears in a few shared bites that leave you wanting more. Previously reluctant diners step outside their comfort zones, compelled by their tablemates to stretch their palates. Chefs Ferrell Alvarez and Ty Rodriguez deliver on every exciting combination that they have dreamt up for your pleasure. Rooster & the Till explodes all the benchmarks and upends any preconceived notions about what constitutes the highest level of fine dining across Tampa Bay. And the food, from a menu of plates designed to share, is, in a word, spectacular. Every dish delivers surprise, fresh farm-to-table ingredients, and an unfailing sense of balance so there’s nary a false note. Photo via Rooster & the Till/Facebook
No. 1 The Restorative 420 Patricia Ave., Dunedin It’s been over two years since I first discovered this Dunedin-based unicorn. I’ve dined here at least a dozen times without ever having the same dish twice. The key to Erin “Cricket” and Jason Borajkiewicz’s ever-changing poetic menu is not about quantity, but rather freshness, balance and finesse. The carefully composed seasonal dishes look too good to eat—wondrous kaleidoscopes of color and texture. The flavors explode on your palate in combinations that surprise or amaze. I’ve run out of superlatives. You can go with friends to share the whole menu or sit at the bar and watch the magic happen. The monthly Saturday night 5-course wine pairing dinner is especially divine. They now take reservations through the TOCK system favored by the nation’s elite restaurants. And after seeing some whiners on Yelp, a reminder to leave the kids at home unless they’re hooked on MasterChef Junior. Photo via The Restorative/Facebook