HILLSBOROUGH
Tampa
Carrollwood/Northwest Tampa
Kaisen Sushi, 12785 N. Dale Mabry, in Mission Bell Square (813-969-3848). This friendly, casual and tiny cafe offers exceptionally fresh, artfully prepared, delicious and value priced sushi. What more can you ask for? A must-try is the calamari, thick slices of succulent grilled squid served in a dark, smoky sauce. Sweet grilled eel and seared tuna are excellent, and ask if they have toro, the choice, fatty tuna. Bargain no-sushi dinners offer enormous portions of tempura and teriyaki. $$
La Maison Basque, 3621 W. Waters Ave. (813-932-1922). Chef Felix Piedra turned this strip shopping center storefront into a cozy dining room with an open kitchen, where he prepares the Spanish/French influenced cuisine of the Basque region. The menu has a European feel, with dishes like fresh chicken breast sauteed in brandy cream sauce, and imported wild rabbit cooked in Galician albarino wine, but surprising ways with seafood put this place on the map. Seafood paella, overflowing with lobster, grouper, clams, shrimp and squid is the house specialty, along with black grouper stuffed with squid and dressed with a cream sauce made of squid ink. $$
Sukhothai, 8201 N. Dale Mabry (813-933-7990). Thai dishes and an elegant Eastern ambiance combine to create a romantic adventure. A class operation. $$
Tampa — Davis Islands
Estela's Mexican Restaurant, 209 E. Davis Blvd. (813-251-0558). Enjoy traditional Mexican specialties while dining al fresco or inside this charming cantina. Excellent fresh salsa, smoky enchiladas and tasty margaritas are menu highlights. Great lunch specials and no less than 25 dinner combinations. Fresh fruit and carrot juices are squeezed to order. $
Pink Flamingo, 210 E. Davis Blvd. (813-251-2928). The Islanders know this is the place to go for breakfast or lunch. Wake up to a Healthy Start, a big bowl of fresh, seasonal fruit tossed with low-fat strawberry and banana yogurt, topped with granola, and your choice of a jumbo muffin or bagel for $5.65. Your mouth will water for hot-off-the-grill sandwiches, like the Island Club, packed with turkey, ham and bacon, sliced avocado, tomatoes and melted Swiss cheese on pumpernickel bread with a light, creamy mustard sauce. Breakfasts range from $2.45 to $6.75., lunches from $4.75 to $6.45. $
Tate Brothers Pizza, 233 Davis Blvd., Suite A (813-251-2767). This casual eat-in/takeout pizza place is family-owned and operated. No Ragu and frozen bread dough here. Sauces, meatballs and crusts are homemade. Toppings are fresh and good quality, like first-rate cheeses, pepperoni and, God bless them, fresh garlic on the pizza! Yummy breadsticks, soft and dripping with butter. Calzones as big as the plate are a meal in themselves. $
Downtown Tampa
Mise en Place, 442 W. Kennedy Blvd., Suite 250 (813-254-5373). Owners Marty and Marianne Blitz create a culinary happening in this smart brasserie-style eatery. Billed as a Neo-American Bistro, Mise En Place is located just across from the University of Tampa. $$$
East Tampa
V.P.'s Country Barbecue and Catering, 7117 U.S. 301 N. and Sligh Ave. (813-626-1996). Vasko and Emilia Popov bring a bit of Bulgarian spice to old-fashioned American barbecue. Lamb, pork, beef and ribs are slow roasted, smoked and spiced with the chef's secret sauce. Picnic under palm-thatched shelters among wide-spreading oak trees or go inside and see the spotless barbecue kitchen. Whole, spit-roasted lambs are a catering specialty. $ 1/2
Tampa — Hyde Park
42nd Street Bistro, 516 S. Howard Ave. (813-253-0042). Plenty of food and action at this 1940s-style New York bistro. Not only do these ladies-in-the-know serve some of the best martinis and manhattans this side of the Bay, but gourmet pizzas, salads and entrees are innovative as well as downright delectable. Superb desserts; perfect for after the theater. $$$
Antipasto's, 2202 W. Platt St. (813-259-1168). The name says Italian, but your taste buds will tell you Dwight and Lauren Otis from Next City Grill are back to their old tricks, exciting us with fresh, unexpected twists. Eighteen starters include fantastic hot and cold soups, cold vegetable nibbles and small pizzas on flatbread. Meals In A Bowl pair homemade pastas with fresh sauces, veal, homemade meatballs and fresh vegetables. Good beer and wine list. Starters range from $3 to $7. Entrees range from $7 to $12. $$
Bacchus Sushi and Noodles, 720 S. Howard Ave. (813- 254-0004). Expect flash and fusion in both food and decor at this high-energy addition to the late-night dining scene. The menu has an Asian accent but offers American-friendly sushi, sashimi, tempura and noodle bowls, along with big steaks and pork cutlets. Most dishes come in small portions for one-from-column-A and two-from-column-B fun, but Bacchanalian appetites will appreciate the huge, whole snapper wok-sauteed, with crispy noodles, vegetables and a savory sauce. Prices range from $6 to $19. $$
Bella's, 1413 S. Howard Ave. (813-254-3355). After 11 years, this South Howard favorite still packs 'em in with tasty pasta and casual ambiance. Try the fine fettuccine Bolognese, or pasta il mare, shrimp and scallops with leeks and mushrooms in a roasted tomato cream sauce. Definitely save room for dessert! Dinner entrees from $6.75 to $12.95. $$
Cafe By The Bay, 1350 S. Howard Ave., Tampa. 813-251-6659. This casual French cafe is a stellar choice for breakfast or brunch, but you'll really see it shine at dinner, when you're encouraged to dine in a leisurely European fashion. Make a reservation, and the table is yours for the evening, allowing you plenty of time to linger over a menu that changes monthly. Look for rich, luscious flavors, elegant sauces and sophisticated seasoning in mouthwatering dishes that celebrate the French talent for turning home cooking into an art. Look for baked grouper stuffed with crab and spinach and served in a liqueur-flavored butter sauce, or rack of lamb in a Smyrna fig and port sauce. Entrees average $19-$28.50. A well-chosen wine list allows plenty of tasty exploration in the $20-$40 range. $$
Ceviche Tapas Bar and Restaurant, 2109 Bayshore Blvd. (813-250-0203), on the ground floor of the Royal Condominium. The owners of Le Bordeaux turn their attention to Spain, with authentic tapas and great sangria. Start a theater date with a few tapas and a glass of wine, and return later for dinner entrees, like wood-roasted baby lamb. Open after 5 p.m., closed Sunday and Monday. $$$
Evos, 609 S. Howard Ave. (813-258-EVOS). Who says fast food has to be bad for you? This is the scene for some of our favorite fast food, like crispy air fries, all-fruit smoothies and great tasting, healthy burgers and chili, so flavorful, you'll never believe they're low in fat and cholesterol. $
Gourmet Pizza Company, 610 S. Armenia Ave. (813-258-1999). The word gourmet gets tossed around far too casually. We think it should be reserved for places like The Gourmet Pizza Co. where quality, creativity and flavor really shine. The classic pie is great. That's a given. But give your taste buds a thrill with specialty pies like Thai chicken, with crisp veggies and spicy peanut sauce, or the steak gorgonzola, with sliced rib eye, caramelized red onions and fresh mushrooms sprinkled with tangy blue cheese. Green salads, pastas and stromboli-like cazollis round out the menu. Twelve-inch pies range from $10.70 to $12.90. $
Le Bordeaux, 1502 S. Howard Ave. (813-254-4387). For Provencale cuisine, you can't get better. Meats and fish are fresh, and a blackboard menu that changes daily always has a great selection. $$$
McHale's ChopHouse Barbecue With Style, 808 S. Howard Ave., next to Tuscan Oven (813-250-9809). Don't let a few classy touches, like cloth napkins and big, comfy booths, fool you. This is bodacious, down-home barbecue. Juicy, succulent Texas brisket, authentic St. Louis-style ribs, smoked duck, great grilled steaks, even pan-seared salmon are all done right and served with fresh, homemade dipping sauces. Try the aged prime rib, dry rubbed with fresh spices and herbs, and slowly roasted over a hardwood fire, served with mashed potatoes and rich beef gravy subtly flavored with Cajun spices. Sandwiches cost $6.25 to $7.99, and entrees range from $11 to $17. $$
The Old Meeting House, 901 S. Howard Ave. (813-251-1754). For more than a half-century, this beloved institution has been delighting people with good old American diner food. Blue plate specials, such as tasty meat loaf, roasted chicken and roast beef are served on blue plates at prices around $5. We love their big, thick hamburgers. Hearty breakfasts are served till 11 a.m. Treat yourself to a malt with homemade ice cream. Cash only, with an on-site ATM. Open from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. every day. Breakfast served till 11 a.m. $
SideBern's, 2208 Morrison Ave. (813-258-2233). Chef Jeannie Pierola, one of the shining stars of Tampa Bay's dining scene, creates a cuisine that is both luscious and lustrous and serves it in a sophisticated setting that manages to be both worldly and witty. The chef grabs premier ingredients from around the globe and blends them into deeply flavorful and texturally exciting dishes, like a mignon cut of tuna and rare Kumomoto oysters wok seared with shiitake mushrooms in a cognac sauce, served with truffled potato puree and baby bok choy, or, for meat-eaters, a duo of short ribs and hanger steak with an orange rosemary ginger steak sauce, horseradish glazed potatoes, and a side of roasted carrots and parsnips. From soup to nuts, it's a tour de force of fine dining at surprisingly affordable prices. Menu entrees range from $13.91 to $18.91 $$$
Sole Mio, 3201 S. Dale Mabry (813-902-1222). Forget about those tasteless, cardboard-crust franchise pizzas. This is pie the way it should be: crisp, fragrant, hand-tossed crust topped with rich, homemade red sauce and deli-quality toppings like real Parma prosciutto, ripe tomatoes, fresh arugula and basil. We love the deep, rich flavors of the chicken and artichoke pie. To really indulge, be sure and ask for a cup of the homemade garlic butter sauce. Twelve-inch pies range from $6.95 to $10.45. Try their great deli sandwiches and antipasto too. $
Tuscan Oven, 808 S. Howard Ave. (813-251-0619). A wood-burning oven is the heart of the kitchen, adding flavor and crusty texture to breads, pizzas, roasted meats, seafoods and vegetables. Try slow-cooked Osso Buco or creamy four cheese pasta and for dessert, a warm, sweet polenta bread pudding with seasonal berries. Dinner entrees range from $6.99 to $12.99 $$
Tampa — Seminole Heights
Ansley's Natural Marketplace, 402 Sligh Ave. E. (813-239-2700), and 3936 Kennedy Blvd., Tampa (813-879-6625). Large, natural food stores with exceptional produce. The Sligh location also has a bakery with good whole-grain breads, carrot loafs and such. Good takeout prepared foods with plenty of flavor and variety. $
Rigo's Eatery, 6607 N. Florida Ave. (813-236-7446; www.rigoseatery.com). This arty little eatery is terribly tiny. Good thing they have a big garden patio out back. Inside, you can order scrumptious breakfast and brunch foods like made-to-order French toast and waffles, eggs Benedict, breakfast sandwiches and more. Lunch and dinner offer big, tasty sandwiches, several meals-in-a-minute for the on-the-go diner, and for dessert, old-fashioned ice cream sundaes with plenty of ooey-gooey toppings. Not too hungry? The easygoing atmosphere makes it a swell place to stop for a cafe con leche and slice of tiramisu while you read the Weekly Planet. $
South Tampa/Palma Ceia/ Interbay
Al Bacio, 3211 Bay to Bay Blvd. (813-839-8486). Yet another in the new mode of gourmet pizzerias, using fine ingredients and fresh ideas to create tasty pies, like the Latin Lover, an ultra-thin crust topped with garlic cream sauce, caramelized onions, Cuban mojo roast pork and a sprinkle of cheese. The flirtatious might like a Flirtation, an ultra-thin crust brushed with fragrant olive oil, covered with caramelized onions and dotted with olive tapenade and goat cheese. Salads, sandwiches, coffee and desserts, as well, can be enjoyed on the outdoor terrace. $
Bec's, 6211 S. MacDill Ave. (813-837-2700). This tiny place (three tables inside, more on a charming outdoor patio) is open seven days a week. Grab-n-go morning drivers will love the palmlettes, calzone-like breakfast sandwiches stuffed with delicious combos of eggs, meat, cheeses and veggies. For brunch, try baked egg souffles with a variety of meats, cheeses and veggies, or baked French toast with cinnamon custard and a topping, either banana pecan or Vermont cinnamon apple, both with whipped cream. Lox and bagel lovers will appreciate the generous Nova platter. For lunch, try dough-zers, big, overstuffed pockets with tasty, creative fillings. $
Caffe Italia, 3114 Bay to Bay Blvd. (813-831-0600). Leave it to savvy chef/owner Andre to create some of the most awesome cuisine Italiano in town. For starters try the melanzane, thinly sliced eggplant in extra virgin olive oil. Continue with the radicchio and endive salad. Follow with at least one pasta selection, like Andre's cappellacci di zucca, homemade spinach pasta with squash in a light tomato cream sauce. $$$
Caffe Paradiso, 4205 S. MacDill Ave. (813-835-6622). Delectable Northern Italian cuisine can be had in this cozy trattoria-style ristorante. Pastas are fresh, veal is simply exquisite and seafood is, well, magnifico! $$
Cesare's of New York, 2117 S. Dale Mabry (813-254-2141). Cesare made his way from Italy to New York, then to Tampa. Their loss is our gain, as evidenced in his crusty New York-style pizza dough, tomato sauces, and his deft hand at putting it all together. Fresh spinach with double cheese and tomato sauce is the house specialty. $
Fuji Sushi Bar and Japanese Restaurant, 1155 S. Dale Mabry (813-282-9098). Look for traditional Japanese dinners like katsu, fried beef, chicken or pork cutlets, along with shrimp and vegetable teriyaki on the menu, with a sushi bar offering daily lunch and dinner specials. Bento boxes are the best buy. Isobeage, seasoned, grilled salmon rolled with seaweed paper, is a treat. $$
Kojak's House of Ribs, 2808 Gandy Blvd. (813-837-3774). If you want excellent barbecue on your plate in just minutes, this could be the spot for you. Barbecue lovers will dig the tender slabs of pork ribs, the chopped or sliced pork and beef dinners with sides of fresh corn-on-the-cob, homestyle baked beans and slaw like Ma used to make. $$
Lola Jane's Crawfish Inn, 5712 S. MacDill Ave. (813-805-0312). Good-natured informality is as abundant as flavor in the little house at the south end of MacDill Avenue, where Lola Jane and hubby Gardner re-create the food and atmosphere of their family table. Enjoy absolutely authentic muffaletta and po-boys, outstanding jambalaya and crawfish pie, great red beans and rice, and a marvelous crawfish etouffe with roux made to your special order. High quality and low dough are the house rule. Salads and sandwiches cost $2.95-$6.95. Hot foods like gumbo and etouffe range from $5.95 to $7.25. Homemade pecan pie or bread pudding ranges from $1 to $2.25. All food packaged for carryout. Screen porch has three tables if you can't wait. No alcohol. $$
New City Bistro, 3333 S. West Shore Blvd. (813-805-0250). Roger and Terri Lenzi, chef/owners of the popular New City Diner, turn their talents to delicious bistro dining with their New City Bistro. The New American menu changes often, but exciting flavor combinations and skillful preparation remain constant. Look for dishes like Moroccan-spiced salmon with feta couscous salad, goat-cheese stuffed filet mignon or fresh herb rub on grilled rack of lamb. A wine bar with more than 60 affordable labels and especially tasty appetizer assortments make this a pleasant place to linger. Entrees range from $10.95 to $17.95.$$
The Press Box, 222 S. Dale Mabry (813-876-3528). Here's a place where single women, and the entire baseball team, will feel equally comfortable with the friendly waitstaff. Hefty burgers are always a feast, but keep a keen eye on the daily specials; they're some of the best deals in town. Good price on suds with some great wine prices, too. $$
Shula's Steak House, 4860 W. Kennedy Blvd. in the Wyndham West Shore Hotel (813-286-4366). This place is just what you'd expect from a football great; an emphasis on sports and red meat in an elegant masculine setting. Outstanding steaks including the 48-ounce Porterhouse (finish it at one sitting and your name goes up on the wall). Also recommended: barbecued, bacon-wrapped shrimp, carpaccio, lobster cocktail, gorgonzola-tomato salad. Voted Best Business Lunch in 1996. $$$
Yoko's Japanese Restaurant & Sushi Bar, 3217 S. MacDill Ave. in Beechwood Plaza (813-835-4311). Great sushi bar, comfortable seating with an innovative dinner menu and plenty of fresh sushi and sashimi. The house roll is a winner. Sample lunch specials for some of the best eating around. $$
Town N Country
Nicki's Omelette & Grill, 6805 W. Hillsborough Ave. (813-888-9365). This unpretentious little diner serves bargain-priced breakfasts that will fill you up for under a fiver, seven days a week. Folks line up for the fluffy omelets. Choose from a huge menu variety or design your own omelet from a list of meats, cheeses and vegetables. $
Satsuki Japanese Cuisine, 5537 Sheldon Road (813-884-4128). This small, refined little restaurant is at once exotic and homey, clean as a whistle and affordable. The sushi bar seats eight, serving fresh, well-prepared sushi with daily specials. Menu offerings include soba and udon, delicious Oriental noodles in spicy broths. Try tempura-udon, well-prepared shrimp tempura served alongside a bowl of thick noodles in hot, fragrant broth. Asian beers, hot or cold sake and green tea ice cream round out the meal. Dinner entrees under $10. $
Tampa — Busch Gardens/USF/Temple Terrace
Angithi Fine Indian Restaurant, 2047 E. Fowler Ave. (813-979-4889). Discover a whole new world of delicious exotic flavors at this north Tampa find. Sample the crisp samosas, succulent, moist tandoori-baked meats, and hot and spicy curries. Cool the fire with a smooth and fruity mango lassi drink. Plenty of vegetarian selections and a nice lunch buffet for a mere $6.95. $$
Taj, 2734-B Fowler Ave. (813-971-8483). Regulars will tell you it's the best Indian food in town. There are a number of good curries, from sweet kormas to spinach, prepared with vegetables, lamb, beef or seafood. Have plenty of naan, their addictive bread, and some luscious ice cream. $$
Trang Viet Cuisine, 1524 E. Fowler Ave. (813-979-1464) and 8502 N. Armenia Ave. (813-931-5119). Lunch and dinner daily. Tasty, healthy Vietnamese cooking with a French flair, featuring fresh, home-grown herbs and daily market specials. Weekday lunch specials are a bargain. Lively dinner menu, like cook your own seafood fondue, or chicken in a clay pot. Homemade desserts are special. Try banana cake (banana and coconut cake topped with peanuts). Beer & wine. $
Vallarta Mexican Restaurant 9255 N. 56th. St. (813-987-2720). The Jimenez family puts plenty of tasty dishes on the table, all served with zesty homemade salsa and guacamole. Large portions of well-known favorites like chimichangas, quesadillas, burritos and taco salads make up most of the long menu, all made with better ingredients and fresher flavors than you'll find if you run for the border. Dinner platters will fill you up for under a tenner. Smaller lunch portions start at $3.50. $
Tampa — Ybor City
Bernini, 1702 E. Seventh Ave. (813-248-0099). Chef Thomas Bob Barfield presents innovative Italian cuisine in a classy, sophisticated setting. The menu changes daily, so expect surprises, but favorite standards include gourmet wood-fired pizzas, especially the one with marinated chicken, smoked mozzarella, fresh tomatoes and oregano and a spicy three-chili oil, and Chef Bob's lamb shank, slow-braised in Marsala and red currant lamb broth. $$$
PINELLAS
Clearwater
Caramba's Restaurante Mexicano, 1842 Drew St. (727-446-7469). There's a new menu and it's better than ever. This former Best of the Bay recipient features Mexican cuisine at its authentic best. On arrival, one should immediately turn to the pescados y mariscos portion of the menu and order one or more of their awesome fresh fish creations. Grouper a la Veracruzano, a traditional favorite, is done in true Mexican style. $$
Joto Japanese Restaurant, 2549 Countryside Blvd. (727-796-2022). Belly up to the sushi bar or grab a seat on the floor while a kimono-clad waitress serves traditional Japanese dishes. Try the special sushi and sashimi platters. $$
New York Bagel Boys, 2566 McMullen-Booth Road (727-797-9891). Recommended for breakfast/brunch, N.Y. Bagel Boys prove man cannot live by bread alone. Wonderful bagels (big, dense, crispy and flavorful) are made on site, slathered with flavored cream cheeses or topped with eggs, omelets, ham, Kosher salami, pastrami, lox. They serve lunch too, with traditional N.Y. deli fixings. $
Pulcinella Ristorante, 2475-E McMullen-Booth Road (in the Oakbrook Plaza) (727-669-9512). If you've ever visited Italy, you'll feel right at home with Chef Carmine's exquisite, authentic Italian menu prepared with the finest imported ingredients. You must try fresh arugula with olive oil and paper-thin slices of bresaola, an incredibly delicate, slightly nutty beef, cured prosciutto style. Then sample pastas to make you swoon, like rigatoni with fresh, imported porcini and very expensive white truffle oil, or the rigatoni al Amatriciana, pasta in fresh tomato sauce flavored with basil, onion and bacon. Entrees from $9 to $14 offer incredible quality at bargain prices. $$
Dunedin
Bayou Bistro and Mudbug Lounge, 456 Causeway Blvd. (727-736-6467). Chef/owner Karen Thomas serves up some fine Cajun food in this funky restaurant and bar. Everything is fresh and made from scratch, right down to the blackening spices on the thin-sliced, gator tail filet. Don't pass on dessert, a huge slice of bread pudding with spiced rum sauce, or is that yum sauce? Oversize appetizers are priced from $3.95 to $6.95, po boys $5.25 to $7.25 and entrees $9.25 to $13.95 $
The Black Pearl, 315 Main St. (727-734-3463). With only 13 tables, this classy cafe turns out some of the freshest, most creative cuisine in the Bay area. Owner Kathleen LaRoche goes the extra mile to secure fresh, prime ingredients. Chef Karen Schluntz turns it into cuisine that dazzles the eye as well as the taste buds. Every selection, from crab cakes to duckling, will delight you. $$$
Kelly's For Just About … Anything, 319 Main St. (727-736-5284). Whether it's for breakfast, lunch or dinner, this casual, ambient, award-winning eatery is the shining star on the Dunedin culinary scene. It's funky, fun and you can dine under the stars. Breakfasts are unique; lunch and dinner specials, seafood, beef and poultry, are always consistently good. Better than that, they're done with a flair. $$
Gulf Beaches/North
Crabby Bill's, 412 First. St., Indian Rocks Beach (727-595-4825). Want better than Long John Silver, cheaper than Red Lobster? Head for Crabby Bill's. Super fresh seafood, ice cold beer and seasonal specials keep the tables full and the diners happy. $$
Frenchy's Cafe, 41 Baymont St. and 419 Poinsettia, Clearwater (727-446-3607 and 461-6295). You'll love the crunchy crust on thier award-winning grouper sandwich, and the fun, casual beach atmosphere. $$
Nadia's Restaurant & Bar, 2721 Gulf Blvd., Indian Rocks Beach (727-596-7222). You'll find well-prepared Continental cuisine, fine French and American wines and attentive service in this charming seaside cottage. Classic cream and wine sauces bathe fresh seafoods, veal, beef and ostrich. Try the crab and shrimp in a creamy Pernod sauce. Entrees range from $11.95 to $19.95. $$
Gulf Beaches/South
Alfredino's on the Beach, 7141 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach (727-367-9999). If you've ever been to Italy, then you'll appreciate the true taste of fine Italian cuisine served by Alfredo and Maria Elena Quatraro in this cozy and charming restaurant. If you've never been to Italy, then this is the place to discover what real Italian cuisine is all about. Heavenly pastas bathed in sauces prepared fresh when you order, and the Quatraros also serve beef dishes, such as filet in red wine demi-glace, and perhaps the best-prepared fish on the beach, like grouper topped with crab in a Dijon wine sauce. For dessert, try caramel-glazed bananas Foster prepared at your table. Entrees range from $8 to $22. $$
The Lobster Pot, 17814 Gulf Blvd., Redington Shores (727-391-8592). Has been serving fresh finfish and shellfish for nearly 20 years now. The focus, of course, is lobster but other treasures of the Gulf are nicely done. Black grouper, snapper and a variety of crustaceans are ever-present on a menu that has some interesting daily attractions. Don't leave without checking out the chowder. $$$
Snapper's, 5895 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach (727-367-3550). This beautiful little bistro is more than just another pretty face. There's serious chefing going on in the kitchen, where a variety of fresh Atlantic fish are being turned into mouthwatering dishes like cashew-and-coconut-crusted mahi-mahi, or pepper-crusted crusted tuna, seared and served on a bed of bright spring greens with an imaginative and exciting blueberry teriyaki glaze. Carnivores will love veal and pork meatloaf, and steaks are cooked on an oak-fired grill. $$
Yoji Japanese Steakhouse and Sushi Bar, 4615 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach (727-367-6762). Open for dinner only. Teppan yaki chefs perform tableside as they cook softshell crab, shrimp, filet, lobster and chicken in spicy sauces on an iron grill. Be sure and try gyoza (traditional sauteed dumplings) and fresh selections from the sushi bar. Entree prices run from $7.95 to $26.25. $$
Largo
Cafe Largo, 12551 Indian Rocks Road (727-596-6282). A continental style eatery popular with locals as well as tourists for many years. There's great attention to detail paid to the menu as well as the service. Check for monthly specialty dinners that feature a fine taste of French cooking. $$$
Sushi Fune, 10801 Starkey Road, in the Bardmoor Village (727-319-6627). Fune means boat, and here you'll sit at the bar as a small fleet of sushi-bearing boats sail past you. Prices are signified by the colors of the plates. Chef Tony will offer you plenty of friendly advice about what's available. The menu also offers dinner entrees like tempura, teriyaki and sukiyaki. Look for green mussels baked in a special wasabi sauce and cooked baby octopus marinated in special seasonings. $$
Palm Harbor
St. Larry's, 34980 U.S. 19 (727-786-0077). St. Larry's feels like a chummy private club, with small, intimate dining spaces, a great bar and plenty of hobnobbing among the patrons, but don't worry; they'll be only too glad to have you join the fun. An eclectic menu that changes daily can offer anything from smoked lobster egg roll with fresh blueberry sauce to angus filet sauteed with cultivated and wild mushrooms in a brandy brown sauce and topped with Maytag Blue Cheese. Fish lovers can look for dry-packed scallops and large shrimp sauteed in a rich Asiago cream sauce or authentic Maryland crab cakes. The extensive bar offers a great wine list and a huge collection of single malt scotch. $$
St. Petersburg
Central St. Pete/Tyrone
Ajanta Indian Cuisine, 5005 34 St. N., inside Mirage Hotel (727-525-1181). Once upon a time, you had to drive to the far side of Tampa to taste the savory, seductive flavors of Indian cuisine, but no more. Ajanta serves up a fine feast of dishes that celebrate the Indian tradition of using a large variety of very fresh spices to turn foods as simple as lentils or potatoes into surprisingly sophisticated dishes. Be sure and try tandoori chicken, or like jinga masala, shrimps bathed in a subtly spicy sauce, and check out daily lunch specials and the Sunday buffet. $$
Downtown St. Pete
Chateau France, 136 Fourth Ave. N.E. (727-894-7163). An old Victorian mansion is a very special setting for a very special dinner. Dine on authentic French cuisine prepared by a Cordon Bleu-trained chef, served in intimate, private rooms. You can blow the budget on dishes like beluga caviar or Dover sole imported from the Canal De La Manche, or dine deliciously but reasonably on roasted duck breast in orange Grand Marnier sauce, or chicken medallions sauteed with Camembert and fresh herbs. Plan ahead to enjoy a very special dessert for two: an authentic souffle au chocolat. Most appetizers run $9 to $12. Most entrees, which include baby vegetables, Gruyere cheese potatoes and signature salad, range from $15 to $29. $$$
The Garden, 217 Central Ave. in Jannus Landing (727-896-3800). This art-full little cafe is noted for its support of the local scene. Home-grown works grace the walls, and local jazz bands play in the quaint brink patio. Menu favors fresh Mediterranean flavors, with splendid paellas, polentas, frittatas and pastas. Tajine, long-simmered Moroccan stew with complex flavors, is a real find. $$
Grand Finale, 1101 First Ave. N. (727-823-9921). This creative bar and bistro is mere blocks from the Tropicana Field of dreams, but light years away from hot dogs and Cracker Jacks. Instead, you'll find one of St. Petersburg's premier destinations for fine dining. The style flirts with Asian ingredients fused with French accents. Try sophisticated starters like seared foie gras drizzled with black pepper caramel, and entrees like seared red snapper served with black truffle risotto or grilled pork tenderloin served with curry-scented and caramelized root vegetables. Entrees $15-$24. $$
Gratzzi, 199 Second Ave. N. 727-822-7769 Gratzzi offers BayWalk's only entry in the serious dining category, offering a lush menu of Northern Italian natives with a New American accent. Authentic Italian fare like creamy polentas and risottos as well as homemade pastas pair with offerings from the huge, wood-fired rotisserie, slowly roasting ducks, chickens and massive pork chops. Entrees range from open lobster ravioli, triangles of pasta layered with lobster in a creamy white wine sauce, to chicken sauteed with pungent porcini mushrooms. A moderate wine list offers a few choices by the glass. Dinner only, 7 days a week. Entrees range from $12 to $20. Specials can go to $27. $$
Moon Under Water, 332 Beach Drive (727-896-6160). Sit on the open verandah, nursing a Guinness as the moon rises over the bay at this capital pub. Moon Under Water celebrates the days when the sun never set on the British empire, with Indian curries, Middle Eastern dishes and the most smashing fish and chips in these waters (served only at dinner Tuesday and Friday.) Extensive beer list. $$
Sahara Cafe, 624 First Ave. S. (727-898-4455). Check out this minuscule cafe for healthy, high-quality and especially flavorful food at low-dough prices. Homemade pita breads overflow with fillings, like Makanik, a huge pita wrap made with spicy beef and lamb sausage, pine nuts, onions, tomatoes and lemon juice for just $3.69. Salads and vegetarian platters, like Tiropita Platter, a special blend of feta cheese and seasonings baked in a phyllo crust, served with Greek salad, and hummus, are real deals at prices from $3.25 to $4.75. Pastries made with pistachio nuts, honey and phyllo are outstanding. $
Northeast St. Pete/Gateway
Babalu, 9246 Fourth St. N. (727-576-7414). It's not swank, just swell. Yes, The Babalu is the veritable definition of a joint. No-account decor, low-class atmosphere, cold beer and gut-busting quantities of low-dough food, with almost everything from salad dressings to side dishes homemade from scratch, have made this place a neighborhood favorite for years. Our favorites are the all-you-care-to eat nightly specials, like crispy battered grouper or barbecued ribs. $
Bonefish Grill, 5901 Fourth St. N. (727-521-3434) Bite into the Bonefish for a beautiful dining room, lively atmosphere and tasty wood-fire-grilled fish with lemon butter sauce, lime tomato garlic, or fresh mango salsa, or try daily specials, like the exceptional talapia with butter, white wine and caper sauce. Juicy, boneless pork chops in red wine glaze top the menu for meat eaters. Cajun chicken egg rolls are a great starter, with plenty of spice and crunch. Large entrees include bread, house or Caesar salad, and two side dishes, making prices from $12.50 to $17 an excellent value. $$
Red Mesa, 4912 Fourth St. N. (727-527-8728) This casually ambient eatery features regional Mexican and Southwestern cuisine. Black bean soup is nicely seasoned with fresh cilantro and epizote topped with chopped onion. There's tortilla crusted grouper with pineapple ancho cream, shrimp with garlic and chilies, fresh ceviche and Oaxaqueno-style fondue with chorizo. An adventure in cuisine by Chef Chris Fernandez. $$
Siam Garden Thai Restaurant, 3125 Ninth St. N. (727-822-0613). Wake up your tired taste buds with the spicy flavors of Siam Garden's dinner entrees. Choose from favorite noodle dishes like pad Thai, or try something special like crispy, deep-fried frog legs in garlic black pepper sauce or whole fried snapper served in a chili-garlic sauce. Plenty of good, inexpensive lunch entrees too. $$
This article appears in May 3-9, 2001.