Today we will take a two-hour ride to the precipitous hillsides of Priorat. As the minibus winds its way out of Barcelona and into the vast countryside, I am reminded of the old tune written by J.F. Coots and H. Gillespie: “You go to my head, like a sip of Pénedes* brew, and I find the very mention of you, like a kicker in a julep or two…”, such is the haunting that has captured my heart.
The Priorat wine region is only one of two in Spain to have the highest level of classification – Dominación de Origen Clasificada – the other is Rioja; Rioja is in good company. Priorat is made up of sharp, rocky hills that are so steep in some places that man and mule must make their way to hand-pick the grapes. Our group is visiting Morlanda Winery located near the town of Bellmunt del Priorat with its 350 inhabitants. It is situated on the left bank of the Siurana River where it converges with the Monsant River at an altitude of about 900 feet.
Morlanda Winery is rather young, established in 1997, but the surrounding vines range in age from 25 to 40 and up to 80 years old. The winery has great respect for the earth and what it has to offer and has only 45 or so acres planted out of 170. To them, there is no need to rush Mother Earth; to mar her curves and offerings, to take advantage of the abundance she has to offer. The evidence is in the making of Morlanda’s VI de Guarda Crianza, a blend of 50% Garnacha and 50% Cariñena. We had the opportunity to taste these varietals out of barrel and then taste them blended. The Garnacha was fleshy and spicy and the Cariñena deep, dark red in color with a lengthy finish. The combination was delightful on the nose and heaven on the palate.
This article appears in Feb 3-9, 2011.