The Hideaway Pizza Pub
3 out of 5 stars
3901 Sixth St. S., St. Petersburg. Starters: $5-$7; handhelds & entrees: $6-$25; beer, cocktails & wine: $2-$8. 727-914-3465, thehideawaypizzapub.com.
St. Petersburg’s Hideaway Pizza Pub is well-named. With the proliferation of new restaurants downtown and along the Central Avenue corridor, I sometimes forget that there are atmospheric neighborhood haunts off my beaten path.
I so often travel down I-275 that my car must surely know exit 23A by heart. However, when my GPS takes me south down 6th Street, I’m exploring new territory. I whiz by the blue waters of Big Bayou and mobile home park Wilder’s. Passing the green expanse of Grandview, I realize I’m like a 21st-century Columbus. I personally feel the thrill of discovery, but there sure are lots of indigenous people here going about their daily lives.
And there it is. On the west side of the road, a lovely gray Florida bungalow that claims to be a pizza pub. I excitedly climb the steps with my team of gastronomic explorers. As we cross the threshold, it’s clear the natives are restless. Actually, the more accurate description would be raucous. As we’re led to our table, we walk through a spirited birthday celebration for a local matriarch. The joy is palpable.
It seems this Hideaway doesn’t look like your normal pizza palace, because the renovation includes a hidden oasis out back. The design inspiration could serve as the set for a Gilligan’s Island redux. Features include a beached boat on a bed of crushed shells, sawgrass growing around wooden pylons wrapped with nautical ropes, a thatched-roof hut, strings of hanging lights, colorful picnic tables with rustic umbrellas, and a delightful sunset mural peeking out behind live palms.
More importantly, there’s an extra-long bar with metal stools and taps serving Shock Top, Yuengling and Stella Artois — as well as Bud and Miller Lite — on draft. The Salty Wench, Angry Pirate, Jungle Bird and Scurvy Dog are some of the aptly named craft cocktails. A diner in my posse opts for the Painkiller, a refreshing mix of Brinley Gold Shipwreck Coconut Rum punched up with pineapple, coconut, orange and nutmeg. So far, so good.
The Hideaway’s menu is simple comfort food. We skip the meatball sliders, loaded fries, and mac ‘n’ cheese bite starters and decide on mozzarella sticks, along with the garlic knots begged for by my group. Before we know it, two plastic oval baskets lined with red-and-white checkered gingham paper land on our table. One of them sports breaded and deep-fried mozzarella sticks with a small cup of marinara for dipping. It’s standard bar fare, satisfying and warm.
But even those of you on bone-broth or keto diets will be sorely tempted by the overflowing pile of garlic knots, which could be a meal in themselves. They are huge, yeasty brown buns sprinkled with grated Parmesan and minced garlic. The soft, warm bread is tasty enough on its own, so I don’t really need the larger cup of marinara fighting for space in the basket. Still, a quick dip reminds me these are the building blocks that make pizza universally beloved.
As is my standard practice, we cling to the fundamentals. Like the garlic knots, the margherita pizza’s crust is soft and yeasty — with plenty of stringy mozzarella, slices of ripe tomatoes, and an ample, well-distributed chiffonade of garden basil. The edges are nicely brown, and the whole thing is dusted in grated Parmesan. Although the crust isn’t elevated by sourdough tang or char, it’s a pleasing effort.
The same is true of the ribs, tender and smoky. They’re full of meat, glazed with a tangy sauce and most satisfying. The Hideaway is certainly a nice match for groups who can’t decide between barbecue and pizza, because it’s the best of both worlds. Neither selection is an exemplar of its kind, but this combo under the same roof is notable.
The restaurant offers a half chicken entree, too, which also includes two sides. We leave behind green beans and coleslaw in favor of soft mac ‘n’ cheese and slightly sweet baked beans with a hint of spice. They’re fine accompaniments, fitting for the relaxed atmosphere. While there’s no surprise, there isn’t disappointment, either.
For handhelds, options include burgers, sausages and wraps. We go for the chicken Parmesan over versions substituting meatballs or eggplant. The sub roll is crisp, but the breaded chicken cutlet topped with sauce and cheese is slightly dry. It’s OK, but falls short of the bar set by the margherita pie and ribs. You may choose either fries or coleslaw to round out your basket. We pick the fries, which arrive warm and crisp.
STILL HUNGRY?
Flip through more shots of what we experienced from photographer Nicole Abbett
I have a sweet tooth, so I always look forward to the critical “burden” of sampling two desserts with each meal. Unfortunately, The Hideaway isn’t in the dessert business yet. I’m disappointed, but heartened to not have to pump the brakes on my ravenous cravings in anticipation of a sweet finish. I remain grateful for small favors.
It’s nice to know that a charming setting full of drinks and comfort food is there to serve Lakewood Terrace and Bonita Bayou, plus any culinary adventurers with a hankering to break away from the shackles of downtown.
CL Food Critic Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system, or email him at food@creativeloafing.com.
This article appears in Oct 18-25, 2018.