Restaurant review: Nearly over the rainbow at The Bourgeois Pig

To enter the dog-eat-dog world of a restaurant entrepreneur, you’ve got to be an optimist. Lysa and Michael Bozel of Seminole Heights’ newly opened Bourgeois Pig qualify.

So, what’s in a name?

Where Merriam-Webster might define “Bourgeois” as “marked by a concern for material interests and respectability and a tendency toward mediocrity,” and suggest “a dirty, glutinous or repulsive person” as one meaning of “Pig,” the Bozels see “abundance,” according to the restaurant’s website. BP's embrace of the pig metaphor is about the “richness of the community,” Lysa told ABC Action News. The restaurant’s splendid metal porcine logo out front, embedded with whimsical symbols, also demonstrates this. And as a devotee of all things related to pork, I’m ready for the experience.

BP rests in a Nebraska Avenue bungalow built in the 1920s, just south of where the Hillsborough River snakes into Sulphur Springs, closing the gap between Seminole Heights and Carrollwood. Lysa’s eclectic boho-chic interior is styled much like a luxurious yet cozy living room. (A huge crystal chandelier hangs from the pressed tin ceiling.) Then there’s Oz, the full-service bar with a separate back entrance. It not only plays off the Bozels’ name, but also the wizardry of their design. Plus, it has a Pac-Man video arcade cocktail table. Outside, the bright green front porch, suited for neighborhood hangouts, is doggie-friendly. And while the restaurant’s location means mostly street parking, complimentary valet is available on weekends.

California natives, the Bozels scored a West Coast compatriot in chef Chris Juers. His braised cider-glazed pork belly is sliced and served with an unfiltered cider reduction and tart apple-sweet potato relish. The pork belly has all the lushness that I love, but he opts not to crisp it up for contrasting texture. And the glaze is cloyingly sweet. The dice of apple and sweet potato tries mightily to reach equilibrium, but the dish collapses under its own sugar rush. There’s a tasty idea behind the concept, though, once the kitchen tweaks the ingredients back into balance.

Pane (as in breaded) deviled eggs take a classic tangy egg yolk filling and pipe it into a crisp, not-so-traditional flash-fried crusted egg white cup. Add a dot of spicy oil for garnish and you’ve got a starter with some real “œuf.”

My favorite appetizer is the yellowfin tuna that’s olive oil poached instead of seared. It’s served in a fan of pretty-in-pink slices atop braised white beans, with a blistered tomato, a touch of chili oil and basil emulsion. It’s a great combo that adds grace notes without overwhelming the delicate fish.

The New World Coq au Vin dish with bone-in dark meat chicken is full of flavor. It’s braised with lardon of applewood-smoked bacon, but none ends up on my plate. I’m also squarely in the Julia Child school of sautéing mushrooms caps separately and adding them as you plate. BP’s are small slices and almost disappear. Young whole roasted carrots split lengthwise make a charming rustic garnish, but they’re too salty. As with some other dishes, I’m picking at nuances — largely because I really like the food and just want it to be all that it can be.

The lamb osso buco — slowly braised lamb shanks with grilled polenta — is a hit at my table. The seasoning achieves a happy balance with the ground cornmeal cake, roasted carrots and reduced braising jus, but more sauce would be welcome.

BP’s Brittany Fish Stew of mussels, chunks of salmon and tail-on shrimp poached in a fish broth with aromatics is finished with a touch of crème fraîche and fresh herbs. Leaves of wilted spinach float in the heady stock. The salmon is a tad overdone, but you almost don’t notice due to the absolutely delicious broth. However, there’s no bread to sop it up. We order a side of bread at $2.75 and get twice as much as we need for the task; better to include some with the dish.

When it’s time for sweets, we skip the s’mores tart and go right for the apple pie grand-mere with house-spun vanilla ice cream and sour mash caramel. It sounds appealing but is underwhelming. The dough lacks flaky layers and is undercooked and gummy — not a good combo. But the coconut bread pudding with rum-flamed bananas fares better. The fruit is reminiscent of bananas Foster, and there’s a creamy scoop of ice cream topped with toasted coconut. It’s just plain yummy.

Bourgeois Pig has a fine mix of craft cocktails and artisan beer, but its wine list is too limited, especially by the glass. There’s lovely food yet no wine to match. The servers are also attentive and friendly (score one), but their knowledge of the menu and wine is lacking. Once all of these details are attended to at BP, though, you may well find yourself clicking your ruby slippers.

This article appears in Jan 29 – Feb 4, 2015.