The 7.5 mile-long island formerly known as Long Key became the city of St. Pete Beach in 1957 when the towns of St. Petersburg Beach, Pass-a-Grille Beach, Don Ce Sar Place and Belle Vista Beach were consolidated into one after a hard-pitched political fight. Feistiness remain a constant among the citizenry (St. Pete Beach has been ground zero in Floridians' battle for hometown democracy), but you can't blame them. Between the unique small-town charm of 8th Avenue, the beauty of Pass-A-Grille Beach and the presence of one of Tampa Bay's most iconic buildings, there's a lot worth fighting for.
FOOD & DRINK
1. Bella Habana 5905 Gulf Blvd., 727-367-1555, bellahabanarestaurant.com. Experience Cuba without leaving the beach. Authentic Cuban cuisine and not-so authentic drinks — phenomenal mojitos nonetheless.
2. Brass Monkey 709 Gulf Way, Suite 200, 727-367-7620, thebrassmonkey.net. Up a circular flight of stairs is a spacious second-floor restaurant known for its seafood, "monkey wings" (but not monkey balls) and a balcony with one of Pass-A-Grille's best views of the Gulf.
3. Black Palm 109 8th Ave., 727-360-5000, blackpalmrestaurant.com. The most sophisticated dining spot in Pass-A-Grille, offering delicious twists on traditional South American and Caribbean cuisine (try the paella with orzo, or the "ricanachos" with banana tostones and pulled brisket). The open courtyard on 8th is a lovely place to while away an evening, especially when there's a live Latin combo playing.
4. The Drunken Clam Bar and Grille 46 46th Ave., 727-360-1800, drunkenclambar.com. Surprisingly more hopping than its beachside counterparts on a Friday night. Small in size but big in entertainment: live bands and sports packages bring in locals and mainlanders alike.
5. The Hurricane 807 Gulf Way, 727-360-9558, thehurricane.com. This rambling faux Victorian is a Pass-A-Grille landmark, a big draw for seafood-seeking tourists and fans of the wide-angle sunset vistas from the Hurricane Watch bar on the rooftop.
6. Sea Critters 2007 Pass-A-Grille Way, 727-360-3706, seacritterscafe.com. Perfectly situated for boaters who want to pull up dockside and grab some fresh seafood and a Bahama Mama. But the landlocked can enjoy it, too, eating right on the water and taking a stroll down the dock to feed the catfish.
7. Shadrack's 114 8th Ave., 727-360-8279. A quintessential beach dive bar popular with career drinkers and young hipsters alike.
8. Starlite Diner 5200 Gulf Blvd., 727-363-0434. The classic silver diner serving up classic American burgers, fries and shakes.
9. The Undertow 3850 Gulf Blvd., 727-368-9000, undertowbeachbar.com. The parking lot can be crowded and the bikini-clad bar staff less than welcoming, but the view of the beach (and the beach volleyball) can't be beat.
10. Wharf Seafood Restaurant & Bar 2001 Pass-A-Grille Way, 727-367-9469, wharfrestaurant.org. Housed in a former fish processing plant, the Wharf has the waterfront perch and casual seafood fare of a typical beach-town restaurant, but with its 13 TVs, multiple Happy Hours and cozy wood-paneled booths it also feels like the kind of convivial sports bar you'd find in a college town.
SHOPPING
11. A Little Room for Art 111 8th Ave., 727-360-8572, alittleroomforart.com. Just like the name says, this pink-and-white jewel box of a store is a little room packed with art — the eclectic and highly enjoyable output of a local artists' co-op.
12. Bamboozle 107 8th Ave., 727-363-6900. Casually elegant women's wear for a casually elegant beach town, from linen gauze blouses to striped Riviera bags in cotton and jute.
13. Evander Preston Contemporary Jewelry Design 106 8th Ave., 727-367-7894, evanderpreston.com. Everyone in Pass-A-Grille knows Evander, and anyone who knows (and can afford) fine jewelry knows the elegant funhouse where he sells his witty, gorgeous wares. And now he's got his own brand of beer. See "Characters welcome," right.
14. Mountcastle International Trading Co., Ltd. 107 8th Ave., 727-360-4743, mountcastle.com. A tiny retail outlet for an international dealer in villager and refugee folk art. Just browsing the shop is an education; cards explain the items' provenance, from Kenyan beaded jewelry to hand-painted Romanian eggs. Open 9-3 Mondays through Fridays; not open weekends.
15. Nancy Markoe Fine American Crafts Gallery 3112 Pass-A-Grille Way, 727-360-0729, facebook.com/nancymarkoegallery. Shops featuring high-end crafts (as opposed to touristy kitsch) are surprisingly rare on the beaches. That may be one reason Nancy Markoe and Joey Peters' intelligently curated gallery just south of the Don CeSar is coming up on its 25th anniversary. See "Characters welcome," right.
16. Paradiso 104 8th Ave., 727-363-8831. Purveyors of tropical clothing for men and women (Tommy Bahama and the like) accented with touches of the entertainingly glitzy, like jeweled flipflops and sequined sundresses.
17. Suzette's Antiques & Oddities 808 Pass-A-Grille Way, 727-388-3381. A big waterfront bungalow, circa 1905, filled with vintage clothing, tools, dolls, postcards, ornaments and more. It's no wonder the shop's business card reads "A Day in Pass-A-Grille"; you could easily while away a day here. See "Characters welcome," right.
ACCOMMODATIONS
18. Postcard Inn on the Beach 6300 Gulf Blvd, 727-367-2711, postcardinn.com. Why would the New York Times, Conde Nast Traveler and numerous other travel pundits rave about a converted Travelodge? Because the boutique-hotel décor is a smart mix of surf retro (including boards) and contemporary edge; the restaurant, Wildwood BBQ & Burger, is the well-reviewed Southern outpost of a popular NYC spot; and for all of its charms, it's surprisingly inexpensive.
19. TradeWinds Island Resort 5500 Gulf Blvd., 727-367-6461, tradewindsresort.com. A sprawling, something-for-everybody resort, with five pools, 11 dining venues, tennis courts, cabanas, shops, lagoons (with paddleboats) and of course, a beautiful stretch of beach. The resort is holding a Beach Walk for Wishes on May 15, a benefit for the Make-A-Wish Foundation.
20. The Don CeSar Hotel 3400 Gulf Blvd., 727-360-1881, LoewsHotels.com/DonCesar. Rising like a mirage at the end of the Pinellas Bayway, this big pink 1920s-era hotel is the Gulf beaches' Taj Mahal — and it's as enthralling inside as out. An ideal weekend escape for locals, but you can also sample the luxe ambience by getting a drink in the comfy Lobby Lounge or the poolside bar.
ATTRACTIONS
21. Gulf Beaches Historical Museum 115 10th Ave., 727-552-1610. The building itself is a piece of history; it was built in 1917 as the barrier islands' first church. And inside there's a trove of information that's a must for visitors and residents who want to understand what came before, from excavated pottery of the Tocobaga Indian tribe to photos of Pass-A-Grille's first hotel (Bonhomie, $7.50 a week) to stories of how Treasure Island and Redington Shores got their names. See "Characters welcome," right.
22. Suntan Art Center 3300 Gulf Blvd., 727-367-3818, suntanart.org. A multi-purpose center for both beginning and professional artists, with classes, exhibits, gallery space and special events, including sponsorship of a regular Saturday Art Mart across from The Hurricane.
23. Polynesian Putter 4999 Gulf Blvd., 727-360-9678. Old-school putt-putt joint long overdue for a makeover, but you can't beat the price at $5 a game.
