From the depths of the backyard, you hear beer worshippers' emphatic cries that brew is the quintessential grilling beverage. But wine clearly kicks beer's butt with food. People mechanically reach for beer when lighting up the charcoal, especially when they're glazing the meat with spicy, tomato-based sauces, but it's high time to throw wine a bone. OK, OK … it's a tough argument, but wine really complements food because of its tannins and acidity. Beer, especially heavier ales and stouts, masks taste by coating the tongue with carbonation and wheaty sensations that don't meld with the flavor of food.
Just look at the rest of the world to see how food respects wine. Even brew-loving Germans sip wine with their meals, saving the heavier, carbonate-laden beverage for brau haus visits. Italians consume wine with every meal, as do the French and Swiss. And although Americans tend to do it Our Way, we might learn some things from cultures that have been drinking us under the table for hundreds of years.
When grilling chicken, you'll want to start with something not too heavy, like a slightly chilled Australian Shiraz, that won't overwhelm the delicacy of the meat. If you slather a fruit-based glaze on your bird, even better because fruit loves fruit. Anything spicy begs for a peppery wine like Syrah or Zinfandel to stand up to the heat. Cheeseburgers, steaks and other protein-rich dishes help to smooth out the rough edges of tannic wines like Cabernet or Syrah. And a cool, crisp white wine counterbalances the oiliness of grilled salmon or shrimp. For some freaky wine-geek fun, slosh down smoky-sweet ribs with a highly acidic Pinot Grigio.
Think outside the keg. Just because Big Beer has brainwashed all of us, including me, into thinking beer is the only accompaniment to grilled meat — it doesn't mean we have to agree. Explore a little and you just might find a new grilling heaven. Here's mish-mash to send you on your way.
Wine Editor Taylor Eason can be reached at 813-248-8888 ext. 162 or taylor.eason@weeklyplanet.com.
Recommended Wine
2001 PARINGA SHIRAZ Light-hearted, friendly and smooth talking Aussie Shiraz. Like biting into a fresh black cherry dipped in pepper. For the price, you can bathe in this stuff and be happy. $11 
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B.R. COHN 1998 OLIVE HILL CABERNET SAUVIGNON A Merlot in a Cab's sexy body. Sultry, smooth tannins with vivid cranberry and dark berry fruit on the nose and tongue. Yum and worth the bucks. $30 1/2
2000 JUSTIN SYRAH Soft and velvety on the tongue, it delivers a sultry, smoky finish. The black cherry soothes a tired body after a long workweek. $26
2001 PEDRONCELLI ZINFANDEL ROSE Hot diggity! This is my new favorite rosé. A far cry from its sweet white Zin cousin, this bone-dry pink wine sports strawberry like you can't believe. Grilled chicken begs for this inexpensive wine. $10
DRYLANDS 2002 SAUVIGNON BLANC New Zealand never ceases to amaze me with their Sauvignon Blancs. This tasty beauty is dry and crisp with citrus and apricots floating in there. $20
CLOS DU BOIS 2000 CALCAIRE CHARDONNAY Slightly buttery, citrusy and spritzy, this may sound like a martini, but it's actually a wonderful wine. Smooth and easy drinkin'. $22 <img
This article appears in May 21-27, 2003.