Think about the massive amount of performance pressure within an industry such as beer. Certain recipes mark milestones in the evolution of brewing, like Pilsner Urquell, which defined a new style of beer and took its name from the region where it originated. You've got experimental breweries like Dogfish Head, partnering with university archaeology departments to analyze residue found on ancient pottery, crafting a modern brew from these ingredients so that we can appreciate beer as it might have tasted in its more ancient forms. That's a hard act to follow. How about this — currently operating European commercial breweries date as far back as the year 1040. Serious beer intimidation.
And then there's Terrapin Beer Company from a tiny art college town in Georgia. In 2002, their only beer, a Rye Pale Ale totally unknown except for the few places in the vicinity of Athens, GA where you could find it on tap, took first place in the American Pale Ale category at the Great American Beer Festival. I'd say that's strong performance in the face of pressure.
Today, Terrapin produces a great number of kick ass beers. As a session beer, the Rye Pale Ale is a perpetual good call. The brewery's extreme seasonal collection, called the Monster Beer Tour, includes Rye Squared, Big Hoppy Monster, and one of the best beers on the face of the earth — Wake-n-Bake Coffee Oatmeal Imperial Stout. But that is not why we are here today. Today we gather in celebration of the newest batch from an equally impressive collection that's been released in all of its limited production excellence.
Side Project is a series of one time release brews, hand bottled in 22 ounce bombers with gold foil wrapping on the cap that kind of looks like a Reece's Peanut Butter Cup. These efforts have all been major creative accomplishments in the art of exercising beer imagination. Previous Side Project installments include the 85 ibu Hop Shortage Ale, the smoky RoggenRauchBier, and Gamma Ray, a wheat wine brewed with honey. Number four in the series — Dos Cocoas Chocolate Porter — is brewed and wood conditioned with 120 pounds of Ecuadorian cocoa.
This article appears in Mar 4-10, 2009.