If you can break away from your wine cellar long enough to think about astronomy, you’ll realize that we’ve just reached the autumnal equinox. It’s that time of year when the temperatures will soon be tumbling. Yes, it’s now fall. So, what does that mean?
The brilliant colors of the changing foliage? A trip to the pumpkin patch and playing in the autumn leaves? Harvest time and the baling of hay? Chopping some wood for the fireplace in anticipation of being snowed in?
Of course not!
This is Tampa Bay, not Burlington. But what we do share with our unlucky neighbors to the north, is the transition from sipping the bright crisp whites that cry out to your palate in summer to savoring the fruitier, dry reds — the herald of the hearty dishes that prevail as we approach the new year.
For me, that means embracing the spicy berry and peppery allure of luscious red zinfandel.
There is some disagreement as to the grape’s origin. However, whether it’s tribidrag in Dalmatia or primitivo in Puglia, red zinfandel’s at its full-blooded best from the vineyards of California. And while many of you envision the oceans of off-dry “white” (very pale pink) zinfandel, which flooded the market in the past, the most successful bottlings of this grape are the quintessential red zins from the West Coast that represent its zenith.
The most notable producer is California’s Ridge Vineyards, where winemaker Paul Draper has been producing top-quality, age-worthy single vineyard wines for decades. I also like Ravenswood Winery in Sonoma. Its iconic black bird daisy-chain logo and “no wimpy wines” motto have made it a go-to producer. And in keeping with my you-can-build-a-cellar-from-Costco theme, try Seghesio’s bottling.
Zin is such a pleasing fall wine, with bright berry fruit character and lively acidity that makes it a great pairing at the table. The grape is a chameleon combining shiraz’s concentration, cab’s power, pinot’s elegance, merlot’s softness and sangiovese’s brightness. We’re lucky in Florida because we can keep grilling ‘til later in the year, and zinfandel is there for us. It’s a perfect match for grilled chicken, ribs with a sweet barbecue sauce, and equally at home with burgers, especially with cheese. Speaking of cheese, it goes very well with strong, rich blue varieties or salty feta.
As we turn to braised dishes for the fall like beef or lamb stew, zin is the answer. If you have a spicy dish (think Mexican or other Latin cuisines), it’s a great red option, but stop short if the chili is too strong because that will battle most zins’ high alcohol content. Try the grape with smoked sausages or roasted turkey, too.
I’ve heard of a wine director that brought a bottle of zin to a sushi bar because that’s all he had at hand. It turns out the grape was a great foil for ponzu, soy, sweet ‘n’ sour and tempering the heat of wasabi. Surprising affinities arise sometimes when you least expect them.
This article appears in Sep 17-23, 2015.