USA Today reported yesterday that problem is drought; scientists predict that rainfall around the Mediterranean basin could drop by more than a quarter in the next couple of decades. For a fungus that relies on damp weather to grow, that's devastating.

But the situation is not quite as bad as this article makes it out to be. When I interviewed Charles Lefevre — former president of the North American Truffling Society and truffle entrepreneur — a few months ago, he told a different story. Lefevre said that 80-90% of French truffles are grown on farms, where irrigation and modernization can stave off drought and other problems. He also noted the culture of mystery fostered by the truffle industry.

"Part of the story of truffles is that producers are very secretive of how and where they grow," explained Lefevre. "They are also secretive about how much they harvest. Most farmers will say they donâ€™t harvest any." With prices at record levels, some farmers may be boo-hooing for effect.

In any case, problems in the French truffle industry open up opportunities for US truffle production, especially for the new wave of truffle cultivators mentioned in my article. Although prices will likely stay at the extortionist levels reached this past year, hopefully other nations cultivating this black gold will up the quality and provide another option for people who need a little luxury in their lives.

This article appears in Feb 20-26, 2008.