Friends invited me to dinner this week, and I offered to bring dessert. A trip to the market produced sweet-tart, juicy nectarines. I thought about a nice pie or cobbler, but my hostess can’t eat wheat products. A bowl of sliced nectarines with a drizzle of heavy cream is always good, but I wanted something a little more special.

Pavlovas were a perfect chocie. They don’t contain wheat, are easy to put together, and are a wonderful showcase for beautiful ripe fruit.

Pavlovas are popular in Australia and New Zealand, where they were developed and named for ballerina Anna Pavlova. They resemble clouds on top of pillows, with a base of meringue and a crisp exterior that gives way to a soft, marshmallowy center. The meringue is filled with whipped cream and topped with fruit — in this case nectarine, but as long as it is soft, juicy and ripe it should work (tart is also a good quality). Berries are beautiful and delicious. Passion fruit is wonderful, as are blueberries mixed with a touch of lemon curd (made from the yolks that aren’t used in the meringue).

Volume is key when making Pavlovas. When working with egg whites