For a beer to qualify as genuine Trappist ale, its brewing must be supervised by monks from the Order of Cistercians of the Strict Observance. These monks adhere to a daily schedule of prayer and labor, using the products of this labor to support monastic life. And, of course, for drinking.
Today, there are 171 Trappist monasteries, but only seven brew beer. Six of these modern monkly breweries can be found in Belgium; the other — Our Lady of Koningshoeven — is in the Netherlands.
Established by Cistercian monks fleeing religious persecution in late-19th-century France, Abbey Koningshoeven brews six offerings that are available in the global market. Any Trappist ale is fine by me, but I prefer a nice dubbel because of its lovely balance of strength and drinkability. Koningshoeven Dubbel is one of my favorites among the style.
Trappist ales have a tendency to be somewhat yeasty, sweet, or syrupy, especially as alcoholic strength increases. This is not necessarily a bad thing, but Koningshoeven Dubbel is different. It’s on the milder side, with a lightweight body and moderate fizz, the kind of decadent abbey snob beer that could also serve as a session beer if you dare. Think of it as a 7% ABV nut brown ale with a Belgian flavor injection.
When poured into a goblet, the deep amber brew gives rise to a substantial head that endures throughout the drinking experience. The nose is slightly sweet and waxy — almost like circus peanuts — with just a slight trace of alcohol. Dominant flavors up front are apples, raisins, and currants, followed by bitterness reminiscent of unsweetened chocolate. It generates mild warmth on the soft palate and in the throat, but no booze burn. The aftertaste is spectacular: crisp, yet rich and gravy-like.
Koningshoeven Dubbel makes me wish I weren’t vegetarian so that I could enjoy it with steak and potatoes. It would also make a mean base for fondue or a thick beef stew. Cheers!
Bethany Sherwin is a Bay area beer maven.
This article appears in Sep 17-23, 2008.