While checking out a restaurant for an upcoming review this week, it seems I finally reached my breaking point when it comes to serving olive oil with bread. As soon as the server started spooning the inevitable herb, salt and garlic mixture onto a tiny saucer and flourished the metal canister of low-grade oil, I wanted to scream. Every Bay area restaurant, save some of the best, has adopted this tired old fad as if they had no choice in the matter. There's always a choice.
Lately (and I hope this doesn't blow my cover for future restaurant visits), I ask for butter as soon as the oil is poured. Most of the time, even in some of our area's finer establishments, the ramekin of whipped spread or plate of patties comes to the table frozen solid. C'mon, restaurateurs, you've obviously spent some time thinking of just the right blend of dreary dried and fresh herbs for that puddle of messy grease; couldn't you spend the same amount of time taking the butter out of the walk-in before opening?
Oil is healthier, you say? Maybe. But a 2003 study by the University of Illinois found that people served oil with their bread ended up soaking 26 percent more of the fat into their sourdough boule than those served butter. On the other hand, people who spread delicious, creamy butter ended up eating more bread. The lesson I'm choosing to take from that little tidbit? Bread is better with butter. Take note, restaurants.
This article appears in Nov 7-13, 2007.