Mango Hometown Tour Cook-off: Alvarez vs. Ponte

See the chefs' winning recipes here.

The Mango Board set the rules for the cook-off: Each chef would produce a fusion-themed dish featuring mangoes as a prominent ingredient.


Chef Alvarez presented his dish first. His description: "Mango allspice-brined Pasture Prime pork with a mango arbol barbecue sauce and pickled mango over a tostone." Twelve hours of braising produced a wonderfully tender pork shoulder, the tostone was a crispy wonder, and the lightly pickled garnish provided a nice contrast. Still, the dish cried out for spice, chilies or hot sauce. My fellow judges, Charlie Belcher of WTVT and Lynn Kessel of Table Scraps/The Tampa Tribune, agreed the dish needed waking up. He used mangoes three different ways, but its flavor was not discernible in the pork.


That said, I could still eat Alvarez's dish all day with a bottle of Cholula or Sri Racha. It was like some new lovely Caribbean fiesta food, a tostone tostada.


Chris Ponte was mild mannered at the event, but his dazzling four-part mango progression belied his culinary passion and intense competitiveness. It was impressive to look at, and had those precocious, precious details chefs are so fond of: tiny skewer-forks, tall skinny shot glasses, foam, and reinvented sushi rolls.


Ponte's progression began with a light mango sushi-type roll paired with a mango-infused soy concoction. The shrimp tempura was elevated by a rich mango caramel sauce. The shrimp and mango salad with mango foam and green mango sauce was pleasant, if awkward to eat. It also cried out for spicy heat. The coconut roll was light, slightly sweet and nutty, wrapped in a small sheet of mango. Too bad the sliver of jalapeno served on top didn't lend any spice to the proceedings.


My fellow judges and I declared chef Ponte the day's champion. It was a pleasant event, and both chefs emerged winners, even if they were a little gun shy with their spices.


Don't tell Chef Ponte, but as I look back, I'm still craving those tostones Alvarez made. I have my hot sauce ready.


See their recipes below:


Chef Ponte’s Shrimp and mango salad and tempura shrimp with a spicy mango dipping sauce
(Makes 4 appetizer portions)


Spicy Mango Dipping Sauce


Ingredients:


3 ½ oz yellow onions
0.2 oz whole clove garlic
0.2 oz root fresh ginger
6 oz mango
½ ea red bell pepper
1 oz ketchup
½ oz sweet thai chili sauce
½ oz brown sugar
0.1 oz jalapeno pepper
7 fl oz chicken bouillon
1 ea kaffir lime leaves
0.1 oz red curry
0.04 oz kosher salt
1 ea lime


Instructions:


1. Saute onions and red peppers until tender
2. Add remaining ingredients except for lime juice bring to rapid boil remove lime leaf
3. Add lime juice and blend all ingredients
4. Cool and serve


Tempura Shrimp


Ingredients:


1 extra large egg
8 oz sparkling (Voss) water
2 ½ oz all purpose flour
1 cup ice
4 oz cornstarch
4 ea shrimp 16-20 ct raw
2 dashes lemon twist salt


Instructions:


1. Sanitize all utensils prior to use
2. Whisk together the egg and water
3. Lightly fold in the flour and cornstarch (do not over mix). Reserve 1 oz for dusting shrimp
4. Add ice and refrigerate.
5. Dust shrimp with corn starch and fry at 350° for 3 minutes

Shrimp and Mango Salad


Ingredients:


8 ea shrimp 26-30 ct cooked
1 ea mango, diced
2 oz red bell pepper, diced
1 pinch cilantro, fresh herbs chopped
2 oz light corn syrup
0.3 oz jalapeno pepper, minced
½ ea vanilla, cleaned
½ ea lime, juiced
2 oz mango jelly
1 oz wonton skins, fried
4 fl oz coconut foam
1 oz dried sweetened coconut, toasted


Instructions:


1. Sanitize all utensils prior to use
2. Combine shrimp, mango, red pepper, corn syrup, jalapeno, cilantro, vanilla and lime
3. Place salad in a small glass and top with mango jelly, wontons, coconut foam and garnish toasted coconut


Chef Alvarez’s Mango all spice brined pasture prime pork, mango arbol BBQ, pickled mango, tostone
(Serves 75)


Brine


Ingredients:


1 gal cider vinegar
1 whole raw ham (cut into sections)
2 c sugar
2 c salt
1 c brown sugar
1/4 c allspice
1 T red pepper
12 mangos pureed


Slaw


Ingredients:


4 heads of shredded cabbage
2 julienned red peppers
2 julienned red onions
6 julienned mangoes
2 c cider vinegar
1 T sugar
2 T water


Mango BBQ Sauce


Ingredients:


12 pureed mangoes
1 c vinegar
4 arbol chilies
1 c sugar
Pinch salt


Tostones


Ingredients:


12 plantains slices, fried, flatten, fried


Instructions:


1. Soak pork in brine for 24 hours
2. Rinse
3. Bake at 300 degrees for 12 hours
4. Shred pork
5. Smear Mango BBQ on plate, Place tostone on top of smear, Place pork on top of tostone, Place Slaw on top of pork

click to enlarge From left to right: Charley Belcher, Andy Huse, Chris Ponte, and Lynn Kessel. - National Mango Board
National Mango Board
From left to right: Charley Belcher, Andy Huse, Chris Ponte, and Lynn Kessel.

click to enlarge From left to right: Charley Belcher, Andy Huse, Chris Ponte, and Lynn Kessel. - National Mango Board
National Mango Board
From left to right: Charley Belcher, Andy Huse, Chris Ponte, and Lynn Kessel.
  • National Mango Board
  • From left to right: Charley Belcher, Andy Huse, Chris Ponte, and Lynn Kessel.

When I received an invitation to judge a cook-off between two talented local chefs, I jumped at the chance. Chris Ponte, (executive chef of Café Ponte) who hosted the competition at his Clearwater restaurant, would face Ferrell Alvarez (the new chef at Café Dufrain) in the kitchen. I wondered what the featured ingredient would be: Wagyu beef or black truffles? When I saw that the invite came from the National Mango Board for their "Mango Hometown Tour", I wasn't too disappointed. No other fruit seems to hold so much potential as an ingredient.

The mango isn't just the world’s most beloved fruit, it's also a potent symbol of Florida's culinary identity.

Until recently, Florida cuisine was oriented toward the Southern U.S. and the pioneer experience, with smoked mullet, swamp cabbage, barbecue, shrimp and grits, and fried chicken ruling dinner plates. Blighted by tourist trap eateries, badly fried seafood, and an unadventurous market, Florida’s food scene need a swift kick in the ass.

In the 1980s, a new wave of Florida cooking flared up in south Florida. Inspired by Alice Waters and California’s burgeoning culinary identity, Chefs such as Norman Van Aiken invented a new Florida cuisine. With an emphasis on fresh ingredients, the so-called Mango Gang looked south to the Caribbean for inspiration.

Today, Florida's food scene may lag behind the culinary hotbeds of New York City, Los Angeles, and so on, but it is light years beyond the Sunshine State's restaurant industry of yore. (Anyone remember the Kapok Tree Inn? I rest my case.) The food produced by chefs Ponte and Alvarez is testimony to that fact.

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