Mother's Day is one holiday that calls for serious dining out, since Mom is usually the person who carries the burden of daily cooking — or did, if her children are grown. You don't want the honoree slaving away in the kitchen on her special day, do you? It's like expecting Santa to stop and do dishes while he's trying to deliver presents or asking your Valentine to make her own chocolates. On Mother's Day, the celebrant should be lounging about with her feet up; people should be waiting on her for a change. (Editor's note: Are you sensing an agenda here?) I do have a suggestion about where you might take the lady in question on her special day, Sunday, May 12 — a restaurant with a view called Jack's StormWatch Bayside Restaurant. It surprises its patrons with a noisy, wet surprise that occurs periodically during the meal.
Admittedly, the quality of the food is secondary to the view and the show; still, I think it does a respectable enough — if not an amazing — job, and might be perfect for a satisfying Mom's Day outing.
The restaurant is nearly hidden along a cluttered stretch of St. Pete Beach. You may pass it a couple of times before you finally spot it, since it sits back from the road, facing an inland waterway.
The StormWatch theme is rather unique — it stages a fake "hurricane" every hour for your viewing pleasure. My dining companion was taken there the first time by someone who enjoyed playing practical jokes; he did not tell her what would happen. About halfway through the meal, she was startled by what she thought was lightning, a sudden clap of thunder, and the rap of pounding rain upon the window.
A TV-type picture of "Hurricane Francesca" is projected on the ceiling, saying the storm will make landfall in the Tampa Bay area. I guess if you'd never been through a hurricane, you might fall for the lightning (done with strobe lights), the "thunder" that booms from wall-mounted speakers, and "wind-driven rain" that lashes the building from a specially-designed sprinkler system mounted outside, atop the windows.
For those of us who have experienced the thrashing fury of a real hurricane, though, the restaurant's ruse bears a thin resemblance to the real thing. The day I was there one whole wall of sprinklers malfunctioned, marring the effect. Still, Jack's does create a special atmosphere.
The food was acceptable, but uneven.
Since it was a hot afternoon, and we were feeling tropically festive, I started with a cold and fruity piña colada ($7), but it was more like a smoothie; I could taste almost no liquor. But I didn't much care once I began consoling myself with a bowl of bang-up sweet potato chips ($4.50), just a delightful dish, so crispy and crackly and sprinkled with sugar; in a cup on the side was a devilishly tangy mango salsa.
Next, we tried a crab cake appetizer ($4.95), a substantial serving of fresh crabmeat, mixed with black beans and peppers, and accented with Key lime tartar sauce that was sour creamy, but not greasy — an unusual combination we enjoyed so much it disappeared within minutes.
As an entree, I ordered "grouper Francis" ($17.95), a filet crusted with almond pesto and baked in the oven. The fish was extremely fresh, no problem there, but I didn't like it — the crust was gooey instead of crunchy, and the side dishes were uninspiring: a meek version of Floribbean rice and a mushy vegetable melange.
My dinner companion ordered barbecued New Orleans-style shrimp ($16.95), sauteed jumbo shrimp adorned with what is supposed to be a frisky, hot butter sauce. The dish featured fat, peeled, just-caught shrimp, but for it to work as advertised it needed much more spice and heat. This entree was awfully tame.
The original recipe hails from a famous restaurant in New Orleans called Manale's. Typically, unpeeled shrimp is marinated in butter, with various hot ingredients like black pepper, cayenne, Worcestershire or chili sauce, lemon or lime juice, garlic, white wine or Tabasco. It's then baked or grilled to produce a crisp morsel and a kicky sauce, which doubles as a dip for French bread. We missed the kick.
Still, we looked forward to dessert and were not disappointed. Jack's version of tiramisu ($2.95) was moist and tasty, though not made the traditional Italian way, with lady fingers. It was more like a spice cake. A piece of chocolate velvet cake ($2.95), with a rich chocolate mousse interior, fulfilled every bit a chocolate lover's wish.
The restaurant also does a nice buffet every Sunday morning, featuring fruit, salad, seafood, pasta, steak and various other items at the chef's discretion. It costs a reasonable $8.95 for adults and $4.95 for children.
Since every table faces big windows overlooking the inland waterway, you can fritter your time between courses gazing out, noting the occasional passage of a boat and kids playing along the shore, across the way.
At the rear is a landscaped patio that trails off in a dock. It's a lovely spot; the sun spangles the blue water and the palms submit to the wind. It's so casual, people cruise around the patio comfortably in bathing suits, another attraction quite apart from the "storm" and the food.
If you really want to spoil your guest, take her for a cruise in your own boat, culminating at the StormWatch; or call Capt. Dan Peretz at Dolphin Landings Charter Boat Center, 4737 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach (727-360-7411). Manager Cindy Pemberton says she often arranges custom trips that make a dinner stop at the StormWatch dock.
The center offers various types of vessels for such excursions, including double-decker powerboats, sailing yachts or sport fishing vessels. She said a three-hour, group sail for four starts at $430, plus tax and tip. It's up to you whether you want to take a cab back to the marina, or pay for the boat to wait while you dine, she said.
"Usually, people are in there for a while," she said. "It's a fun place."
Contact Sara Kennedy at sara.kennedy @weeklyplanet.com or call 813-248-8888, ext. 116.
This article appears in May 2-8, 2002.