Cassis American Brasserie

3.5 stars

170 Beach Drive NE, St. Petersburg, 727-827-2927 or cassisab.com

You could almost hear the collective “oooohhh” in downtown St. Petersburg when Cassis held an open house about a month ago, shortly before opening to the public. Reporters and locals marveled at the design of the place, chefs gaped at the state-of-the-art, massive kitchen loaded with gleaming new equipment and enough stations to require a battalion of employees. Restaurateurs from the immediate area — especially those located down Beach Drive — likely sighed in resignation as they gauged the potential for competition.

And when Cassis opened a few days later, the public seemed just as fascinated, and for good reason. Cassis has managed to put together an incredibly tight package that stretches from your first glance inside to the moment you pull out your credit card.

Problem is, the food — although capable — is the weakest element of the Cassis experience.

The design, however, is gorgeous. The elements are simple: long fluorescent tubes mounted to the walls at regular intervals, casting a bright yellow glow; geometric tile laid in a complex pattern on the floor; rich leather and dark wood booths; a massive zinc bar; and simple globe lighting fixtures hanging throughout the dining room. The effect is striking without being fussy, and easily manages to evoke a lively urban French brasserie. Even among folks who’ve never left Florida, I imagine.

This article appears in Apr 28 – May 4, 2010.