Daydreamers Cafe & Grill
Breakfast/brunch: 3.5 out of 5 stars
Lunch: 3 out of 5 stars
143 Seventh Ave. N., Safety Harbor. Breakfast: $9-$13; lunch: $9-$16; dessert: $5.75; beer: $4.50-$6; wines by the glass: $5-$6. 727-723-0909; daydreamerscafeandgrill.com.
Down the street from Daydreamers Cafe & Grill is Flower Power Ellie, the Safety Harbor Art and Music Center’s faithful pink mascot. It’s a huge psychedelic elephant that captures the fanciful nature of the colorful and mirrored mosaic-lined building. Perhaps inspired by its neighbor, the restaurant brings its own whimsy to the breakfast and brunch menu with an imaginative spin on normally predictable morning stalwarts.
The former Cello’s Charhouse is bright and welcoming. In good weather, Daydreamers even has sidewalk seating. It’s a casual space with a smiling, friendly staff; every once in a while, chef-owner Chris Wicks pops in for good measure to be sure the dining room is happy.
There are “womelettes” with fluffy eggs cooked on a waffle iron and pancake batter baked in tins served as mini cupcakes. The flavors don’t really change, but the surprise is plain fun. Speaking of, the restaurant offers $3 mimosas all day long, which is a bargain by any measure. You can even switch it up by subbing cranberry for orange juice if you wish. Heck, at that price, have one of each — they’re not that alcoholic. Otherwise, try the organic, fair-trade coffee or Coke products presented in funky mason jars.
Our spinach and feta womelette is lovely and fresh. The bowl of warm cupcakes drizzled with maple syrup and dusted with powdered sugar also makes for a nice brunch side dish if your posse have a bit of a sweet tooth and need extra carbs to go with their eggs.
The applewood mixed grill features a tender, 5-ounce smoked breakfast pork chop wrapped in brown sugar. It’s covered with the restaurant’s signature honey bourbon hollandaise sauce, which is tasty, if not textbook Julia Child. My two eggs over easy are just right, but the bacon could be crisper. Add some potatoes and perfect toast and you’re full indeed.
The satisfying house potatoes are big chunks with the skin on. While they’re much larger than most hash browns and aren’t assertively seasoned, there’s a gloss of red paprika. You may also choose from grits, a freshly cut fruit medley, Greek yogurt and a flaky biscuit covered in traditional sausage gravy. Yum, yum.
Honey bourbon eggs Benedict is a delicious Daydreamers twist on a breakfast classic. Seared sourdough bread is covered with spinach, tomato, bacon and basted eggs (instead of poached) — plus that honey bourbon hollandaise — and accompanied by a side for gluttony’s sake. It’s not traditional, but it is fresh, filling and flavorful.
The special breakfast Cuban sandwich loads up a crisp roll with fluffy scrambled eggs, crunchy bacon, garden lettuce and ripe tomato. It’s a nice interpretation. We have a delightful time at brunch, and I can’t wait to return to see if lunch meets the same standard.
My afternoon follow-up starts with Almuerzo de Camerón, which loads your dish with plump, juicy, split-shell pink Argentinian shrimp marinated in lemon pepper and lightly grilled. It’s a handsome presentation with details you rarely see at a casual mom-and-pop operation. There’s a fluted half lemon, cut with a V-shaped garnishing knife, with edges charred on the grill. This is all to please your eyes, when a simple lemon wedge suffices from a purely practical point of view. A quintet of glistening shrimp alternate with small mounds of fresh and tangy mango salsa in a crescent that surrounds a molded round of cilantro-lime rice topped with optional black beans. Here’s where the plate slips up. I have to assume the rice is pre-molded, with the beans held under a heat lamp — because, rather than luscious, saucy legumes, the beans are a crusty, dried-up blob. It’s a misstep on an otherwise enjoyable dish.
Knowing what to expect when you order flatbread is an elusive activity. It’s a popular plate offering a continuum from rectangular pizza to crispy lavash. Daydreamers offers six tasty toppings; we choose thin-cut horizontal rounds of pear and Gorgonzola that’s drizzled with balsamic glaze and garnished with a colorful baby lettuce blend. Unfortunately, the flatbread is a flavorless, extra-crisp base that reminds me of a wonton wrapper.
The Ultimate Grilled Cheese is terrific. The sandwich slowly caramelizes sourdough bread, which overflows with a “delicious combination” of Monterey Jack, Muenster, Gorgonzola and Swiss. Sadly, the luscious-looking soup pictured online that had me salivating isn’t available. I settle, unhappily, for an unremarkable Caesar salad.
Lunchtime sides include the same rustic potatoes, house salad, standard-issue “koolsla” (aka coleslaw), or a chips and salsa option. The cilantro-lime rice is fluffy, but the flavor accents are subdued. If you’re going to advertise herbs and citrus, don’t be so reticent.
Wisely, given the mom ‘n’ pop nature of the restaurant, Daydreamers offers two desserts from Joey Biscotti, Safety Harbor’s self-described “rustic gourmet bakery.” These small-batch sweets are divinely decadent. The toasted coconut lime bar is drizzled with kiwi and raspberry sauces, while the chocolate toffee cake pudding has a white and dark chocolate drizzle. Both have my table oohing and ahhing.
They’re a comfy way to end a meal that, despite a few quibbles, is worth a trip, especially for the whimsical brunch.
CL Food Critic Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system, or email him at food@creativeloafing.com.
