Restaurant review: Fodder & Shine’s grub is straight outta history

If you really want to put the cuisine of Fodder & Shine into context, you should take a trip to Pinellas County’s Heritage Village prior to eating in Seminole Heights. There, you’ll find the county’s oldest structure, a typical Florida “cracker” log home from the pioneer period. It was built in 1852 by Capt. James McMullen.

You see, the fabulous Bakers ­— chef Greg and Michelle of Refinery fame and acclaim — are bravely letting you travel back in time to survey the state’s cracker cuisine, popular from just before the Civil War to the beginning of the Great Depression.

The menu reflects 18 months of research into heritage food recipes that merge the African, Irish and Scottish eats of cracker families (named for the cracking whips used to herd cattle). With authenticity assured, ingredients are sourced from farmers and ranchers across the state.

While scanning the lineup, I feel a bit like a middle school student unprepared for the vocabulary pop quiz. The answers, class, are as follows. Minorcan: indentured servants who arrived in St. Augustine from Spain in 1777. Gazpachee: a salad from Pensacola with a base of mahonesa (or homemade mayonnaise), not to be confused with soup. Cathead, light fluffy biscuits the size of your favorite kitty’s noggin. And, finally, sofkee, which literally means uncountable, a fermented rice dish akin to grits. Luckily, the other pithy descriptions nullify your need for a Florida history book.

I can just picture an old Florida cracker wading out into the swamp after a hard day’s work, gigging frogs for dinner. Protein is hard to come by, and, with the legs being the only part worth eating, it’s also a challenge to find enough food to feed a family. If you’re squeamish about acknowledging where your food comes from, steer clear of F&S’s version because there’s no denying that these tasty limbs are the means of locomotion for local amphibians. You can even inspect our webbed friends’ pedicures. That said, the legs get five enthusiastic “ribbits.” Even my skeptical tablemates, who have a hard time as visions of cute little green frogs dance in their heads, have to admit these tiny morsels, tinged with vinegar, garlic, parsley and thyme, are not only gluten-free, but absolutely delicious.

Hardtack (with “tack” being British slang for food) has been a staple since ancient Egypt, especially for soldiers or sailors, because it’s simply flour (from whatever grain is available), water and, if you’re lucky, a little salt. These hard biscuits, if properly stored, can survive the weather and can be softened in soup or other liquids. F&S serves pieces with a tasty smoked mullet spread, as well as pickled onions and peppers. The hardtack is a reminder of just how good we have it with our range of crackers and bread. Hardtack gives your teeth a workout, even piled high with the fish and pickled veg. I appreciate its authenticity, but my tasters aren’t up to the task and opt to eat the fish alone.

The made-to-order crackling cornbread (which takes 20 minutes) is a flourless skillet concoction that’s dense and unsweetened. It’s drizzled with local honey and topped with a dollop of sweet butter that makes it moist. It seems dry on the palate if you’re used to lighter, modern versions.

There’s definitely an Old Florida comfort-food vibe to the sides. The aforementioned sofkee, a native porridge with cream and butter, reinforces that theme; think of it as a denser precursor to grits. The lima beans are cooked ’til soft, and lush with onions and distinct notes of green pepper. And the butter-braised cabbage and turnips offering is true to the base flavors, presented in small self-contained porcelain bowls that keep them from blending with the proteins.

The rabbit is a stew of celery, potato, lima beans, copious amounts of black pepper and sherry surrounding textbook light-as-a-feather cornmeal dumplings. Be forewarned that the pepper shouts when it should hum, but the dish is yummy. The juicy cornmeal-coated chicken is fried in chicken fat, giving it a pleasant crunch and rich flavor, but it definitely has a distinct texture due to the use of the coarse meal instead of flour. The slow-roasted pork shoulder is simple and satisfying.

I’m curious to see how Fodder & Shine patrons will play out. Cracker cuisine is, by definition, comfort food that’s straightforward and not noted for finesse. The expectation, therefore, may be for prices more in line with Cracker Barrel, and that is not the case. However, all the dishes strike me as being made with impeccable care. The love shows through. The problem is that authenticity doesn’t always translate for contemporary palates. A perfect example is the restaurant’s sour orange pie. For those used to key lime pie with a sweet condensed milk base, the citrus custard in a plain, bland crust brings diners up short. Our modern association is flakiness, and the crust is just dull. (Chef Greg has reportedly reworked this recipe since the time of my visit.) The dense white cake with a beaten caramel icing fares much better. It’s full of flavor, yet still an adjustment for contemporary tastes.

We waited 30 minutes at the splendid bar for a table, so it appears that F&S’s simple, comforting appeal is winning the day.

This article appears in Jan 22-28, 2015.