Clear Sky on Cleveland
2.5 out of 5 stars
Appetizers: $5-$19; entrees: $7-$32; desserts: $6-$9; beer, wine and cocktails: $3.50-$14. 727-754-7244; clearskyoncleveland.com.
Far be it from me to give advice to a restaurant whose business plan is working. You can only expand if enough diners flock to you door. On my visits to the third Clear Sky — this one on Cleveland in downtown Clearwater — the joint is jumping. Obviously, the restaurant team has a finger on the pulse of the community. The space is attractive, the staff is friendly, but, for me, the food is adequate.
The menu for this “global bistro” is huge, offering an “all things for all people” approach, rather than “do less and do it well.” I don’t mean to imply that the food is bad — it’s not. But most of what we chose ends up being less than the sum of its parts, and simple adjustments in execution could elevate the results to deliver the lineup’s full promise.
It seems like alcohol drives a lot of the business, and Clear Sky offers a wide range for every taste: 20 draft and 20 bottled beers ($3.50-$9), 32 wines by the glass ($8-$14), and 12 craft cocktails ($8-$12). And maybe if that’s your focus, you’re not so concerned as long as the food reaches an acceptable quality.
Chef Bobby Shirley’s menu is a global bistro as advertised, with items from Korea, Greece, Israel, Thailand, France, Italy, Mexico, Brazil, Tunisia, Japan and a variety of American influences from Brooklyn, Philly, Pittsburgh and New Orleans. But when your net is spread so widely, it’s hard to be focused. I can’t help thinking that a simpler menu would produce a better result. However, I’m paid to be picky, and I realize many diners have a lower bar for a casual place to drink and hang out.
We start with a delightful cocktail. The cucumber cooler begins with Hendrick's Gin, adds a turbinado simple syrup and fresh lime juice, and is topped with club soda for some welcome fizz. The secret is muddled cucumbers, which float in the tall glass and add a burst of freshness.
Our appetizers, though, are underwhelming because they lack balance. A cup of pozole is one-dimensional; the roasted tomato broth is so spicy that it overwhelms the roasted pork, chickpeas and cabbage, even with the cooling influences of queso fresco and crema. Avocado fries are unseasoned, relying on ranch dipping sauce. The “My Castle Burger” sliders (with fine fries) are too dry, and American cheese, onion jam and baconnaise can’t quite rescue them. And the deviled eggs flavor of the day is blackened seasoning with blue cheese (as assertive as Cajun spices can be, these are no match for the blue cheese), emblematic of a rushed, overwhelmed kitchen. Each egg looks different; most are just sloppily piped.
Our entrees fare slightly better. “Tunis Tagine Chicken” features quartered pieces, mixed olives, vegetables and a blend of North African spices for plenty of flavor. Pan-seared scallops are cooked well, but the citrus-garlic quinoa is timid, while crispy Brussels sprouts and blistered grape tomatoes don’t elevate the plate enough.
The item that totally misses the mark for me is cottage pie. I’ve spent many happy hours eating cottage pie in England. This is not that dish. In the U.K., that means beef, as shepherd’s pie means lamb. In the States, we tend to use the latter term for beef covered with mashed potatoes. What arrives at the table looks like a ceramic skillet with a serving of black beans — “ground lamb and beef, rosemary demi glaze, creamy golden mashed potatoes, sweet green peas and aged Cheddar cheese.” The gravy predominates and is thick and dull. There are bland mashed potatoes in the center covered with a blanket of cheese that isn’t sharp like an aged Cheddar. The ratio of meat to potatoes is way off; my heart sinks.
Dessert is also a mixed bag. Vanilla cheesecake is very light yet buried in berry sauce. I prefer a dense New York-style cheesecake, but regardless, balance is key. The apple pie is a good choice, with flaky pastry and sweet apples with just enough texture to remain interesting.
Clear Sky on Cleveland is branching out with a limited brunch menu unlike the huge breakfast offering at its sibling, Draught House in Dunedin. A big portion that almost doesn’t fit on the plate, the chilaquiles are quite tasty. Fresh yellow tortilla chips are stuffed to overflowing with crisp lettuce, pico de gallo, green chili relish and queso fresco, topped with both roja and verde sauces and two fried eggs. If you crave Mexican at 11 a.m., this is the way to go.
Vermont sausage gravy and biscuits have timid homemade sage sausage and Vermont maple syrup gravy that barely registers. It’s bland as it sits on flaky baked buttermilk biscuits. Likewise, the grated hash browns are underseasoned and hardly crispy. This dish needs more attention to “wow.”
The Mediterranean omelet is so chock full of olives, artichokes, roasted red peppers, spinach, mushrooms and feta that eggs seem like an afterthought. The parts are all there, but it’s out of balance, so the star takes a back seat to the filling. There’s a long snake of smooth tzatziki on top, too, that, while not strongly flavored, is better as a grace note.
Despite my disappointments, business is booming, which proves only critics care about nuances when alcohol is flowing.
CL Food Critic Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system, or email him at food@creativeloafing.com.
