Deviled Pig
4 out of 5 stars
3307 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa. Entrees: $8-$30; sides: $3-$6; desserts $2-$4; soda, tea & coffee: $2-$2.50. 813-766-1188, deviledpig.com.
As I drive across the Courtney Campbell Causeway with my tasters in tow, I find out that one friend (chosen at random) considers himself an expert on ribs. We discuss barbecue technique. I talk about my “holy smokes” conversion from pulled pork to St. Louis ribs that was my first food pilgrimage cover story when I started reviewing food for CL in 2012. He regales us with tales of ribs competitions at his former workplace, where he won over colleagues and established his street cred.
After eating at the full-service Dr. BBQ, with its smashing two-tiered interior and huge bar, my expectations for South Tampa’s Deviled Pig are over-hyped. When I arrive on Dale Mabry to find a small storefront with more seating outside than in, I have to readjust.
There are lots of stools staring out the windows and a couple of tables from which to view the flatscreen above. Actually, make that one table to view the TV, since the second is underneath. One wall is lined with self-serve beverage taps for soda next to vats of fresh-brewed iced tea. You stand in line to order at two registers, then get a number to ensure your meal is delivered to your seat. The emphasis, it seems, is on keeping the overhead low and the quality high.
Everything is served on metal trays with paper liners, so the food isn’t about plating. The award-winning pitmaster, Lee Ann Whippen, has teamed up with World Sandwich Champion Jennifer Daskevich to deliver “meat with an attitude.” My approach, however, isn’t to be seduced by inventive combinations that can mask base ingredients. Similar to how I evaluate pizza by sticking to the simple margherita version, our order at Deviled Pig is straightforward.
I go directly for the half-pound pulled pork sandwich, served on a huge roll from La Segunda. The shreds of pork are unbelievably juicy. We request slaw on the side, thus forgoing my favorite on-sandwich combo. But this is wonderful, and I easily slip into a pulled pork coma. I start with my preferred vinegar sauce — later deciding to add a touch of Pirate Mustard — and am very happy.
Originally somewhat skeptical, my ribs expert analyzes the half-rack of Compart Duroc St. Louis ribs like an anthropologist.
“See how the meat is still white here?” he points out. “Pink meat that falls off the bones has absorbed too much smoke and loses the core pork flavor.”
He likes ribs that have resistance. I take a rib and taste; it sure is succulent. Perhaps I’ve been using the wrong ribs yardstick. Is it possible that ribs pose a curious paradox? I’m not ready to reach a conclusion. Instead, I revel in deliciousness.
We also jump on the daily special, which offers two meats, two sides and a dinner roll. The La Segunda bread is important as a vehicle to taste the sauces, while we revel in the cherry-smoked Certified Angus beef brisket and the pitmaster chicken. It’s all in that sweet spot where juiciness and seductive smoke collide. After tasting other barbecue in recent months, no wonder Daskevich and Whippen have earned their bona fides.
The signature sauces are superb, and it’s hard to pick a favorite. That said, there isn’t anything too cheffy about them. Pirate Mustard follows the South Carolina model. Buccaneer Original barbecue sauce has a sweet tomato base, and Blackbeard spicy sauce kicks tomatoes up a notch. Back Bay vinegar sauce is in the eastern North Carolina mode. FloraBama white sauce packs a delicious punch. These are five splendid condiments. They don’t push the envelope, but they cover the bases well. Since each comes in a convenient plastic cup, you may sample around if you’re so inclined.
The restaurant’s array of sides also displays vivid and exciting flavors. You sit up and take notice when a forkful of the memorable baked beans with smoked meats hits your tongue. Southern coleslaw and panko-crusted mac and cheese aren’t quite as surprising, yet they do hold their own. And red-skinned mashed potatoes, tinged with the subtle addition of garlic, are firm and satisfying.
Dessert is limited. We skip the maple bourbon bacon sundae to try one of Mom’s carrot cake cupcakes with cream cheese icing and an individual key lime tart. They’re classic examples of how to do both sweets right. The cake is moist and its icing is sweet, while the tart is creamy and appropriately… tart. There’s nothing unexpected here — just traditional variations of these popular treats to put a satisfying exclamation point on a tasty meal.
My tasters are so impressed they order a Deviled Pig, aka the porky take on Ybor City’s famous deviled crab, and a full rack of ribs to take home with them across the bay. That’s the biggest compliment our group can pay. We depart in ecstasy with a to-go bag in tow.
CL Food Critic Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system, or email him at food@creativeloafing.com.
This article appears in Jan 10-17, 2019.