Sociale Italian Tapas + Pizza Bar
3.5 out of 5 stars
5427 Bayshore Blvd., Tampa. Appetizers: $1.50-$22; entrees: $10-$32; desserts: $2-$8; beer, cocktails & wines by the glass: $3.50-$16. 813-374-9302. socialebayshore.com.
When you head south along the water, Tampa’s Bayshore Boulevard veers away from Hillsborough Bay as you approach Ballast Point. It’s there you’ll find Sociale Italian Tapas + Pizza Bar.
Since the menu is billed as Italian tapas, there aren’t really appetizers — it’s all about finding things to share. As presented, this Italian cuisine sadly doesn’t break down into small plates as neatly as its Spanish neighbors. We begin with the eggplant rollatini. The veggie is sliced thinly and wrapped around a filling of ricotta and mozzarella, then roasted. Unfortunately, it’s served sans sauce, not to mention dry and forgettable. Luckily, our meal looks up from here.
Next, we decide to share the margherita pizza. The crust is wonderfully crisp, but without a chewy corniccione edge or much tang in the dough. Thin slices of Roma tomatoes deliver bright acidity, and there’s a chiffonade of fresh basil, though barely any sauce and a stingy amount of fresh mozzarella. What could be memorable is just pleasant.
A good section of the lineup is set up in “design-your-own” flow charts. Pick from four different meatballs (or one of each) and choose from a quartet of sauces; for $2 more, you can also transform them into sliders. Farther down, the restaurant features five house pizzas or a build-your-own offering with 12 regular or eight premium toppings. The create-your-own pasta track begins by selecting a small or large portion with five noodle varieties, adding your pick from six sauces and one of six veggies. Finally, there’s the option to select seven proteins that range from grilled shrimp to meatballs.
I can’t resist sampling a trio of small pasta portions, which turn out to be ample enough for tomorrow’s lunch. Instead of following the design-your-own route, I opt for three of the eight combos predetermined by the kitchen. It turns out to be an inspired array. Each pasta is perfectly al dente, with sauces providing distinct finesse.
Usually, I avoid linguine with clam sauce, because it’s not a personal favorite. However, it’s my job to understand how it’s made, and this one is terrific. The flavors are in balance with hints of wine, garlic and parsley to enrobe the sweet clams. Plus, there’s a wonderful buttery finish. What follows is the classic pappardelle with Bolognese. The pasta is wide and so thin that it’s almost translucent. The sauce is lush and beefy, with notes of nontraditional oregano kept in check. Ultimately, the result is very satisfying. Perhaps my favorite is called Bankshot: rigatoni bathed in creamy tomato with nuggets of blackened chicken, bits of smoky bacon, and small leaves of wilted spinach.
Both the grilled fish and the bone-in veal chop are served on a dark wood platter scattered with mixed baby greens. The bronzino fillets glisten and display attractive grill marks. All that’s needed is a spritz from the fresh lemon wedge. Most of the fish is available blackened, broiled or with a piccata sauce, too.
Likewise, the veal chop can be served with Parmesan, or breaded Milanese-style, but we settle for simple grilled meat. That way, there’s nowhere to hide, allowing the quality of ingredients and kitchen’s skill to shine. This one arrives sliced with a sprinkle of fresh herbs. It’s juicy and delectable.
The surf and turf is a welcome variation on lobster and filet. A bowl of creamy, soft polenta is topped with tender scallops draped with crisp bacon — rather than wrapped as the menu promises — as well as juicy shreds of luscious beef short ribs. Bits of tomato and soft, sweet translucent onion with enough gravy from the braise to tie it all together are also incorporated. The dish is simply delicious.
Now it’s time for dessert, and we count on two stalwarts. The tiramisu, often a square cut from a large pan, is instead a diminutive individual column. Espresso-dipped ladyfingers are swapped for a round of yellow cake finished with coffee-infused mascarpone under whipped cream drizzled with chocolate. It’s tasty, yet only a few bites.
Our pair of mini cannoli, though, seem to be forgotten. After some minutes tick by, we inquire to a passing server, and they finally appear. Personally, I never understood the allure of cannoli. That said, these are quite good. The house-made ricotta filling is fresh, creamy and imbued with orange zest. It’s a splendid complement to the tiny dark chocolate chips garnishing each end. The cookie shell itself is crunchy and not too sweet — almost good enough to make me a believer.
When you’re eating tapas-style, I understand that the dishes come out of the kitchen at different times when they’re ready at their peak. But we essentially ordered two starters and four entrees. While our server was certainly friendly enough, let’s just say the person seemed more concerned with attending to some of the chattier adjacent tables then with removing our dirty plates. Little attention was paid to filling our water glasses, or considering we might wish to have new cutlery when we switched from a shared cheesy pizza with acidic tomatoes to pristine grilled bronzino.
Based on my experience, serious work needs to be done on Sociale’s service before it matches the quality of the mostly superb food.
CL Food Critic Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system, or email him at food@creativeloafing.com.
