Debuting today, Suegra Tequila Cantina occupies the former home of City Fish in Oldsmar. Credit: Meaghan Habuda

Oldsmar's anticipated, upscale traditional Mexican restaurant opens to the public Monday. Suegra Tequila Cantina, which hosted a private preview event on Saturday night, has taken over the 8,000-square-foot building at 4022 Tampa Road with an intimate, dimly lit dining room, open kitchen, stylish design and decor indicative of a hacienda, and two bars — one of which welcomes diners as soon as they walk through the door.

Chef and co-owner Todd Hall, a two-time James Beard honoree and author who's opened exciting Mexican eateries around the country, is at the helm of the indoor-outdoor restaurant, formerly known as City Fish. During the weekend sneak peek, Oldsmar Mayor Doug Bevis congratulated Hall and co-owners Matt and Craig Vario on Suegra's completion.

"We came in here a couple of weeks ago and this place looked like a bomb went [off]," Bevis said. "Economic development is the biggest thing for our city, and we really do appreciate Tequila Cantina being here with us."

An elegant specialty cocktail made with jalapeño-infused tequila. Credit: Meaghan Habuda

Guests enjoyed passed plates like carne asada, scallops and pork carnitas, as well as a help-yourself dessert bar — featuring Mexican flan, chocolate cake and big, crazy-good slices of cheesecake — and buffet area, where one chef carved the meat of two roasted pigs for tacos with your choice of hot sauce.

And the cocktails? While there wasn't a printed menu to peruse, bartenders at the outdoor bar on Suegra's spacious open-air patio had the drinks on lock, asking guests what flavors and spirits they enjoy in a cocktail to whip up their ideal beverage. There was everything from white sangria and margaritas made with Don Julio to a sweet-and-spicy, jalapeño-infused tequila situation showcasing blood orange, agave and some other things I didn't catch. Patrons can taste a selection of more than 200 tequilas and mezcals once the doors open, too.

Although the restaurant is focusing on gourmet farm-to-table cuisine that reflects Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula, Hall told CL in January that Suegra will be accessible to a range of diners.

"We're switching to high-end Mexican, but will have more variety and a lower price point," the chef said. "We're gonna make it so that someone with $15 can come here to eat and the most expensive thing will be $32."