SumitrA's lemon bar (OK, not really a bar, but who cares when it's so good?) and Greek coffee. Credit: Cathy Salustri

SumitrA’s lemon bar (OK, not really a bar, but who cares when it’s so good?) and Greek coffee. Credit: Cathy Salustri

"It's like a coffee bean hitting you in the face!"

That's what my caffeine companion said when he smelled my Greek coffee from a new coffee shop in downtown Gulfport.

Opened earlier this month, SumitrA Espresso Lounge operates 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday. The shop took over the former Murphy drugstore/1926 building/Bellini's/La Fogata space at 2838 Beach Blvd. S.

SumitrA offers cafe staples like strong coffee, tea and baked goods (those lemon bars are so good) at a reasonable price — think $2 to $7 for a drink and $3 for a CBD-infused espresso add-on — as well as cold-pressed juices by Lumi and wheat grass shots.

The comfy couch, wifi and friendly vibe should also compel customers to stick around awhile, as this is an all-around cozy, happy spot.

Gulfport has badly needed a coffee shop with regular hours for years. Stella's serves coffee, yes, but the place is so popular that it's kind of a dick move to stay and linger for two hours with your writer friends. And the neighborhood loves T and Me Tea Company, though erratic hours (the owners have an ill daughter) make it hard to schedule a coffee date there regularly. Plus, there are something like five indoor seats at two tables.

But SumitrA's name, which means "good friend" in Sanskrit, seems like a pretty great indicator of what to expect.

Cathy's portfolio includes pieces for Visit Florida, USA Today and regional and local press. In 2016, UPF published Backroads of Paradise, her travel narrative about retracing the WPA-era Florida driving...