4 out of 5 stars

2223 N. West Shore Blvd., Tampa. Appetizers: $4-$16; entrees $13-$38; dessert $8.50-$9; beer/wine/cocktails: $5-$17.

I’m usually a bit skeptical when approaching new restaurants affiliated with shopping malls. And while Bay Street at Tampa’s International Plaza has proven to be an exception, as I approach Whiskey Cake and stroll by meals past, my expectations are firmly in check. Just as Epcot is a mere reflection of Europe and not the real deal, things here are just a bit too slick—if you have visions of cobblestone gastronomic alleyways built up over time.

But when I cross the threshold into Whiskey Cake’s dimly lit interior, the backlit wall of 300+ bottles is breathtaking. This is serious business, offering most any distilled dark spirited grain from top producers around the globe. There are flights featuring curated quartets to sample: rye, bourbon, Scotch, Irish or those to mix and match; all affordably priced from $16 to $18. It’s a wonderful way to explore and educate yourself if you’re so inclined. Be forewarned that it’s a slippery slope to boutique whiskeys where prices escalate. Most top out at $60, but there is a $200 shot on the list. All the whiskey drinks get a generous 2-ounce pour instead of the typical 1.5 ounces.

As they say, “after all, whiskey is in our name.”

We try a couple of interesting cocktails just for kicks. The “little rye lies” sweetens Old Overholt with a surprising turbinado black tea syrup plus orange and Angostura bitters for complexity. The Pimm’s Cup #1 takes a big swerve by substituting ginger beer, which is far more assertive than Sprite. Also, traditional Pimm’s demands mint and cucumber. There’s a garnish of strawberry skewered with a cucumber ribbon; it’s handsome, but keeps the flavor out of the glass. Still, if you like ginger beer, it’s a nice alternative to a Moscow Mule.

The menu features an attractive group of snacks, burgers, and well-conceived proteins to take optimal advantage of the mesquite grill. We start with 3 Little Pigs: a trio of slow-roasted pulled pork sliders with whiskey barbecue sauce, crunchy apple slaw, and some crispy onion strings. They are delightful, as are the chunky deviled eggs which pop on the palate. Each is garnished with a piece of cherry tomato and crisp bacon. They overflow with a creamy, loose filling that has heat from both poblano and jalapeño peppers. Thick-sliced fried green tomatoes have an abundant coating of warm crispy batter and a sprinkling of lemon zest and parsley. The spicy remoulade adds another welcome layer of flavor. My table is all smiles.

The entrees also sing. A thick, glistening, charred salmon fillet sits on a bed of toothsome ancient grains combined with delicious bits of braised fennel and celery root. The addition of diced orange squash, dried red cranberries, chunky feta, and micro greens add plentiful color and complexity.

Beautiful pink slices of crisp-skinned duck breast are spread across a bright chunky purée of ginger and heirloom carrots with bits of kale and red onion. A touch of acidity from bright citrus vinaigrette balances the fat from the duck. It’s a great example of synchronicity in each bite.

Last is a big, thick hunk of whiskey-braised smoked beef short rib, which sits on some sweet spaghetti squash. The meat is topped with a subtle whiskey demi-glace and a garnish of bright green gremolata for some herbal and citrus grace notes. This is whiskey-fed comfort food.

The menu also features an array of salads and burgers, plus chicken with bacon-laced waffles. But the most enticing choices come from the mesquite grill. There’s black Angus ribeye, spit-roasted chicken with bacon and Brussels sprouts, red snapper with orzo and wilted spinach, and pork brisket with cheese grits and a fruit-tomatillo salsa. The range of dishes and well-matched accompaniments plays to their strength.

The main dessert is the eponymous whiskey cake. It’s built upon a large square of moist toffee torte absolutely smothered in whole spiced pecans. The whiskey comes in a puddle of bourbon crème anglaise that engulfs the cake. The whole thing is topped with a generous dollop of ethereal homemade vanilla whipped cream.

The only other sweet finish is a seasonal dessert. On my visit, it’s an enormous plate of strawberry shortcake featuring the pride of Plant City. The “cake” part of this American favorite is often a scone-like base. Here, it’s more of a sponge that reminds me of focaccia; it’s on the soft and doughy side. There’s plenty of fresh chunky fruit, a fine purée, and copious amounts of “schlag” worthy of a Viennese Cafe. In fact, our friendly and efficient server brings a whole bowl of perfect freshly whipped cream to meet our every indulgence.

We pile big creamy blobs on both desserts and there’s still plenty left over. It’s a particularly nice touch to have a bowl of cream that’s obviously just been freshly whipped. You can taste the difference. It’s so pure and light and totally seductive.

I leave happy but chastened; I shouldn’t have doubted Bay Street. Whiskey Cake delivers.

CL Food Critic Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system, or email him at food@creativeloafing.com.

Want to know everything going on with Tampa Bay's food and drink scene? Sign up for our Bites newsletter.

This article appears in May 30 – Jun 6, 2019.