When my brother graduated from high school, his favorite teacher told me that the entire faculty was mystified to discover that my bro's grades ranked among the best in his class. He wasn't, like his unbearable sister, one of those show-off students in the front of the class, hand raised to every question. He wasn't the president of all the after-school organizations. He wasn't known around the school as one of the top students, or considered a shoo-in to the top colleges. He wasn't singled out for academic awards or recognized for his consistently high performance. The teachers dubbed him the Stealth Scholar.
O Bistro is a Stealth Restaurant. It doesn't boast the endless waiting lists and reservation requirements of the more famous must-eat places in town. It's not dripping with questionably awarded Golden Spoons. It's not even on the radar of half the Pinellas County foodies I know (though it is Zagat-rated). It's just there, quietly serving up some fabulous cuisine and providing a much-beloved hideaway to a small cadre of loyal customers. Tucked away in a nondescript strip mall on the unfashionable end of St. Petersburg's Central Avenue, O Bistro is a happy discovery for the diner fortunate enough to stumble across its ecru-and-ebony exterior awning. Though the menu contains a few missteps, the overall quality and style of this restaurant cannot be mistaken.
The interior of the establishment boasts few windows, and is decorated in soothing shades of black and gold, which creates the effect of a cool, dimly lit respite from the sweltering summer sun. The two rooms hold fewer than 20 tables, but the bistro's secret status makes it possible to secure a spot, even on a weekend night.
The wine list shows a decent range, though it's a tad overpriced in the "by the glass" department. I paid $8.25 for a glass of "featured" New Zealand Lynskey sauvignon blanc. Though one of the finer specimens of that country's growing influence in the wine market, I think that price would make even the sheep laugh. Native offerings are priced more reasonably.
The bistro has a limited appetizer menu, but my dining companion and I sampled a few of its offerings. Though I had high hopes for the curry-seared tuna sashimi ($8.95), the standard wonton crisps, pickled-cabbage slaw, green globs and teriyaki glaze served with the dish were hopelessly ordinary. The fish itself was high-quality, melt-in-your mouth tuna, but nothing distinguished its curry-seared qualities from any of the dozens of tuna sashimis on menus throughout the Bay area. And next to our other appetizer, the mundane tuna hardly had an opportunity to shine.
I was skeptical at first of the three-cheese and crab quesadilla ($9.95), which featured an unlikely combo of sharp brie, mozzarella and queso fresco on a crabmeat-filled, chipotle tortilla that overflowed the plate. But a single bite convinced me. Large lumps of fresh crabmeat served as the mildest flavor in a quesadilla where even the flour wrap possessed a touch of spice. The dish was served with scoops of tasty, roasted-tomato salsa, sour cream and an herb-tinged guacamole in endive curls. Definitely an appetizer to remember, the quesadilla could also fill in as a light lunch or supper.
In keeping with the bistro theme, O offers nightly specials. I tried the rack of lamb with a rich cabernet reduction sauce, piquant roasted garlic mashed potatoes and fresh veggies ($24). Cooked to medium-rare perfection, the meat was presented with an artistic flair that made it almost too pretty to eat. However, I overcame my aesthetic hesitation and dug in, discovering that the dish tasted even more delightful than it looked.
My dining companion, who, like me, was hard pressed to choose among the intriguing menu entrées, finally went with the pecan-encrusted breast of chicken with balsamic caramelized onions and "O gratin" potatoes ($14.95). Though neither of us tends to order chicken at restaurants, we were both pleasantly surprised by the panache and attention to detail chef Tyson Grant gave to what might be a simple, throwaway dish. The tender chicken breast was updated with a bit of crunch and a subtle hint of sweetness from the crust of roughly ground pecans. The "O gratin" potatoes were a little bland and unappealing, but the complex caramelized onions provided a sweetly tart flavor hike to the dish.
For dessert we ordered a fresh apple tart made with phyllo dough and topped with vanilla bean ice cream ($5.95). Unfortunately, the whole dessert was drowned in at least a cup of clover honey that completely overwhelmed the dish. Before my first spoonful, I thought it was caramel sauce. A hint to the chef: a bit of honey goes a long, long way. After eating around the honey-infected portions of the tart (which was quite good), I gave up.
O Bistro serves breakfast all week long, and its early menu showcases the same style and quality as its dinner offerings — for less than half the price. While my dining companion snacked on fluffier-than-air Belgian waffles accompanied by all manner of fresh fruit compotes ($5.95), I waffled between ordering the creme brulee French toast made with heavily caramelized challah slices ($5.25) and the bananas foster version, which comes with caramelized bananas and toasted pecans in a banana rum sauce ($6.50). Though I eventually decided on the former, I'm sure both options had the same crispy texture surrounding the soft, moist interior. For side dishes, we gave the disappointing "O gratin" potatoes another go ($2.95, and the same reaction) and greatly enjoyed our grilled slice of piquant chorizo sausage ($3.95).
A special breakfast treat was O Bistro's German-style pancake ($9.95), which needed to be ordered half an hour ahead of time (since they make the batter fresh) and looked for all the world like a small pizza topped with apple slices. The dish is definitely too big for one. The heavy pancake had a soft, filling, custard-like texture and needed no addition of warm maple syrup. We ate it like a pizza, which might not have been the way the Germans or O Bistro intended — but hey, this is the age of cuisine fusion.
O Bistro has been around for years, and though it possesses the same style and qualities as the most happening establishments in town, it's the overblown zeppelins downtown that are causing all the commotion. The Stealth Restaurant floats along quietly, serenely, and certainly under the radar.
Freelance writer Diana Peterfreund dines anonymously and the Planet pays for her meals. She may be contacted at diana.peterfreund@weeklyplanet.com. Restaurants are chosen for review at the discretion of the writer, and are not related to advertising.
This article appears in Jul 22-28, 2004.