There are half a dozen places in town that serve proper Chinese dim sum — TC Choy’s is a fine choice — but I have to give props to Sidebern’s take on this style of dining. Each night, the restaurant offers a dozen or so items on its dim sum menu — each at under $5. Each contains a taste of Chef Jeannie Pierola’s skill at combining disparate flavors into one coherent dish. In fact, it’s where she and her kitchen shine, the small scale forcing them to distill down to only the absolutely necessary components. 2208 W. Morrison Ave., Tampa, 813-258-2233.
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This article appears in Sep 13-19, 2006.