If you’ve lived in Tampa Bay for any period of time, the grouper mystique has probably worn thin. Flaky, white, nice. What else ya got? We don’t know exactly what Acropolis does to its Athenian grouper, but the breading is more like a dusting, the flesh is always tender, the seasoning superb. The green pesto sauce completes a sublime dish. There are a couple of nice sides, too, but right at the moment, we can’t recall what they are — the fish is that good. 1833 E. Seventh Ave., Tampa, 813-242-4545, www.acropolistaverna.com.
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This article appears in Sep 13-19, 2006.