The C House
3.5 out of 5 stars
6005 N. Florida Ave., Tampa. Appetizers: $4-$14; entrees: $14-$33; desserts: $2-$7; beer, cocktails & wine: $4-$15. 813-488-4813, thechouse.com.
Vision is a rare thing — and moving on that vision is often an act of real courage. This is especially true in the volatile, competitive restaurant world. As much as I have spent my life immersed in culinary glory, learning complicated techniques, understanding the craft of cooking and traveling to world class restaurants, I would never want to own one.
It’s a risky high-wire act that requires limitless energy, obsession and a leap of faith. Sure, it can be lucrative, but more often there’s a misplaced step, an unexpected wobble, and your business is in free fall while you’re praying there’s a net below.
The daring restaurantpreneur/aerialist Danna Haydar, a former Bolts attorney, came up with the one-of-a-kind concept of opening a Tampa restaurant in Seminole Heights where everything starts with C. Sesame Street aficionados know that “C is for Cookie,” but in Haydar’s world, the watchwords are “Champagne, charcuterie, cheesecake.”
As anticipated, The C House carries many bubbles, but only prosecco, cava, cremant and sparkling wines by the glass. If you want true Champagne, you’ve got to embrace the half bottle of Taittinger, which, alas, exceeds CL’s budget.
The conspicuously clever culinary collection combines craft cocktails, charming chardonnay, captivating cabernet, cheese, California cobb, Chinese chicken, caprese, carne, ceviche, crab cakes, chopped and chilled Caesar... you get the idea.
The former automotive shop has been transformed into a welcoming, casual-chic space with shiplap walls, industrial cage pendant lights, a spacious covered patio and lots of interior beams; it’s reminiscent of Joanna Gaines of HGTV’s popular decorative style.
The attention to detail is obvious, and the food uniformly exceeds expectations. The hitch, if you will, is in solving the Rubik’s Cube of service. We arrive simultaneously with a few other parties, and the staff is totally flummoxed. Patient and hungry soul that I am, we’re finally seated and things go smoothly from then on. Still, The C House needs to sort out such service issues, because the kitchen is kicking ass.
Everything we eat is carefully plated and simply satisfying. Chef’s Board is a curated selection of seven meats and cheeses (also available with three or five selections). Our seasonal accoutrements include house-made blueberry-bourbon preserves, whole-grain mustard, spiced Marcona almonds, house-pickled onions, cucumbers and cauliflower, and a cluster of sweet dark purple grapes. A fine herbed pork terrine, two kinds of spicy artisan chorizo, a moist fish-crab cake, house-cured white fish and salmon and a triple cream, and goat cheese complete the feast. There are too many olive oil-drizzled baguette slices for us to finish. If I’m being picky, I’d like some carb variety; after all, the menu promises crostini and crackers. Still, the board is memorable.
The same is true of the Cadillac Mac served in a diminutive cast-iron skillet. The al dente cavatappi pasta (corkscrew macaroni) is swathed in a creamy mix of sharp Cheddar, fontina and Parmesan crusted with butter herb crumbs and dotted with bits of locally sourced lobster meat. I’m not sure that the lobster’s presence justifies the $5 upcharge because the sauce is assertive and overpowers the shellfish. Perhaps the same amount of lobster, but in larger pieces, would remedy that — and it would make a stunning garnish.
The caprese is as good as this popular combo gets. Large ripe red-and-yellow beefsteak tomato wedges surround creamy chunks of fresh buffalo mozzarella (which seems to be burrata) covered with an ample chiffonade of garden-fresh basil, plus seductive drizzles of balsamic vinegar and basil olive oil. It’s sublime.
Can the entrees match this opening salvo of flavor? The answer is a resounding yes.
Carbonara gnocchi is surprisingly good. The soft potato pillows of gnocchi aren’t at all gooey, and they float in a luxurious white wine cream sauce tinged with garlic and dotted with bright green English peas, crisp pancetta and grated Parmesan. Flawless, juicy slices of grilled chicken breast complete the mashup.
Our other shockingly good surprise is the trio of chicken sliders. Sliders are good for sharing, but usually ho-hum. In this case, each element is perfect — making for a treat. The biscuits are flaky and wonderful holding crispy breaded chicken that’s moist and spicy. House-made cabbage slaw brings acidity and crunch, and a chipotle-honey drizzle adds grace notes of heat and sweetness.
After two startling dishes, steak frites brings plenty of flavor, yet no surprise. The marinated skirt steak with chimichurri sauce is tasty, and the hand-cut fries pass muster. A side salad of mixed house greens with cherry tomato halves, sliced cucumber and grated carrots is colorful and fresh.
There’s no dessert menu, but rather a chalkboard with impressive calligraphy outlining the available C sweets: cheesecake, cookies, cupcakes, croissants, chocolate truffles and cinnamon rolls. Despite a sign in the restroom that proclaims, “I want buns of steel, but I also want buns of cinnamon,” we opt for cheesecake.
While four kinds of cheesecake slices are served, I use the standard New York version as a benchmark, which comes with a sweet berry coulis. For me, it’s too light and the sauce overpowers the star. My companions are less critical. The dessert is certainly well-made, but I want my New York cheesecake heavy, dense and disgustingly rich. You know what you like in this realm.
An off-the-board selection, however, is a delightful chocolate glazed cream puff — sort of a two-bite eclair. It’s an ideal, sweet way to end the meal.
CL Food Critic Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system, or email him at [email protected].
